Thread: 2J Racing NEEDS YOUR HELP!!!!

Originally Posted by L8YBUG

turbo vq b13 all the way!! VERY light, lots of support and a good following for business, and independant rear susp FTW!!!

I vote b13 due to weight, and the independent rear suspension as well. Aero already exists for them, and the rear windows would be much easier to put lexan into.

Plus, I've owned 2 B13s, and a B15, and as much as I enjoy the B15, the B13 is a much more fun, tossable car. Throwing it around for no reason is FTW. Also, run some big ass flares, with 275 R comps on it. You'll break your neck.

B13 AWD VQ Turbo!

I never liked the B13 until I met this guy a couple years ago at CFRC in Orlando. His car looked super aggressive in person, like it would do some damage on the road course. I was looking through Google images of B13's and stumbled upon an article about his car: StanceWorks Exclusive : Russell McMullan’s 1992 Nissan Sentra | StanceWorks

b14's will handle a wider tire in the rear then the b13 if that matters.

somebody post the damn rules
unlimited yes, but
what limitations does the class impose.
we are trying to win here, not look good
if NO limits
tube frame, open wheel car, lets get it done
lol

Here you go Yogi.

http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/time_trial_rules.pdf

To answer your question:

The TTR class is designated as a truly unlimited racecar class. It is intended for purpose built, tube frame, never street legal, and monocoque racecars, as well as very high-end modified streetcars with low weight/hp ratios. Modifications are completely unlimited (within NASA safety technical guidelines), although open-wheel formula cars are not legal. The TTS class is the “Super” class for production vehicles originally built and approved by the DOT, TUV, and Japanese government for street use, that meet the listed “Adjusted” Weight/Power ratio of 8.70:1 or higher, and that retain their original OEM frame rails (or unibody), strut towers, floorpan, and subframe (no tube frame conversions). TTU is the “Unlimited” class for production cars with the same requirements as TTS, but with a much lower “Adjusted” Weight/Power ratio limit of 5.50:1.

thanks Adam

this almost looks like a nasa trap lol
j&j will build the car for tts [8.7lb/hp]
stock unibody, strut towers etc
then they will be adjusted up to ttu [5.70lb/hp]
i would build for ttu

looks like a lot of dyno time and weight adjusting

imo
r-comps are DOT approved good for points
4 door sedan seems to add to the goodness
a 245 tire vs a 275 series gives you a few
the b15s weight, and four doorness, may give a slight advantage here

not sure how to use the adjusted weights to your advantage


btw
your rules are worse than mine [too much adjusting and opinion comes in]
here mine lol
Race Rules

The panhard also cost points if they do b15.

can i change my vote to finishing the plenum, intake, and at least one header first?
lol

Nice try Connor lol.

b13 all the way if it can be made to put that kind of power down efficiently.

B14 alll the way. I've seen so many B15's and B13's being built, and I have seen a few B14's, but I feel the B14 is the one that you'd least expect out of the group... I enjoy the sleepers that can slap vipers in the face.

Not to mention that it's very light and has a decent wheelbase.

Given the power output I would go with a AWD/RWD platform but seeing as you want to stay FWD go with the B13 - lightest weight of the group, so you would need less power to have a competitive power to weight ratio. FWD and traction will be an issue on all three cars but with the lower powered B13 it can be made more managable. Start with the lightest chassis possible and add what is needed to be competitive, your almost given free reign in the rule book so go for it. You can also fabricate in-house so that cuts down on your expenses.

Watch the caster, SAI, scrub radius with wider track wheels/tires and VQ-T power or this car will be TQ steer monster. Some of the higher end standalones can incorporate multiple tuning maps with traction control (if allowed by the rules). So with ABS style speed sensors so you could pull timing and/or taper off boost when severe wheel spin is detected. 350 to 450 WHP is fairly an easy affair with mildly built turboed FWD VQs, nothing new. One GT28 ~ GT35 turbo is only needed, depends on the power output and desired powerband. A twin turbo is just a waste of money, weight, fabrication time, and makes more chances of something leaking or breaking on track day.

Based on our testing of the baby spec, we are leaning towards a B13 VQ Turbo