Thread: Audio Install w/ OEM Rockford

So, here's the deal. I don't know anything about this factory rockford setup to know what I need to do in order to replace the head unit, and f+r speakers.

I have done a ton of audio installs in previous cars, but they all had crap stereos without pre-amps and factory subs.

I understand I'll have to get a harness specifically for the RF package.

Now, HU is self explanatory, as I'll pick up something that has the features I want, and sorta matches the OEM amber backlights.

Front speakers, can I get away with components and replacing the mid bass driver, and tweeters without having to run new wiring, or am I going to have to rip apart the door, install a crossover, and run wires all the way up to the A-pillar tweeters?

Rear speakers I'll just go with some decent sounding two ways, and I'm going to assume it'll just be plug and play, because I have no reason not to.

Factory sub question time. I know this is run through the factory pre-amp. I want to keep this 8, and perhaps build a box for a decent 10 or 12 in the space next to it. Why do I want to keep the factory stuff if I'm going with better? I actually love the midbass it produces, but it doesn't go low enough for me.
Would I be able to split the pre-amp signal to keep the factory sub, and run the wires into a 4.1 amp for the rest of the speakers? I'm sure I'd have to make my own jumper harness, and I assume the factory harness has line in for speakers, and line out for speakers + factory sub.

If anything, I'd split the line in to the factory amp, and send it to both the 4.1 and factory crap, just to keep the sub. The line out from factory would only exist to sub, and speakers would be run from the new amp.

Is this making sense to anybody else? I'm trying to figure out what all I can get away with WITHOUT having to run a whole bunch of new wires through my car, since it already has all of this from the factory.

I'll draw MSPaint diagrams for somebody if they've been through their stock system a few times to help explain what I'm trying to figure out, and see if it will work.

Alright, after searching, and reading 20+ threads across multiple forums, I have an answer. Factory tweeters are run from their own input from the factory amp, so I'll probably leave those for a bit more front high fill.

Front components are likely going to be some JL C2-650s with a 3/4" spacer to make them fit, tweeters will likely be installed flush mount on the door panel, as soon as I locate a decent spot. Anybody have a picture of some recommended spots for this?

Rear speakers are going to be some entry level JL TR650 CXi two-ways. I don't need a lot of sound from these, just something to increase the total volume a little bit.

I'll likely run these from the headunit, which apparently I'm SOL for finding a nice one with amber display, and USB+aux in. So, I've decided on a Clarion CZ500 to run it, as it has all of the features I need. I typically go Pioneer, but they don't seem to offer a decent bluetooth head unit for anything near a reasonable price at the moment.

With a metra or scosche harness, I should be able to keep the rear sub playing off of the inputs, which will suffice for a while, considering the front components will likely surpass it.

Now, that's the plan for the temporary setup. I do plan on eventually buying a nice 4 channel amp for this, in which case I'll end up re-wiring the car, and pulling out the factory tweeters + sub and amp. I'm definitely looking at a decent 10 or 12 still, but I think I'm going to settle on a 10 since I can build an OEM looking box, and still get the bass I want. (I did contemplate on some 6.5" JL subs for the rear deck, but they're a bit spendy for not having any experience with them, they're also almost 6" deep, and I don't think I have that much clearance.)

So, JL in the Spec V it seems, and after reading through a whole bunch of crap, I've finally wrapped my head around exactly how this factory system works, and how I can use it temporarily, and then finally eliminate it.