Thread: This is my soon to be 700whp beast

Im not gonna go into too much detail Ill give you a rundown of the build and setup for those not wanting to go through the entire build thread and post up some before pics of my last setup that was making in the range of 530-550whp on 30psi (dynod 461whp on 24psi with stock intake manifold and throttle body) 30 psi was on an aftermarket intake manifold and Q45 TB.

Here is the build thread:

9 Second B13 Sentra SE-R build!!! Update 10/9/10, Paint Finished - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

Build consists of:

Engine:

SR20VE block
8CW DE crank and girdle
ACL race main and rod bearings
GTIR main bolts
VE oil pump
Eagle Rods
CP 8.5:1 86.5mm pistons
JDM highport SR20DE head w/ mild port and polish work
JWT C2 cams w/ BC springs and titanium retainers
RR hydraulic lifters
Twin groove shims
Cosworth 87mm, 1.1mm headgasket
Golden Eagle B16a vtec head studs
Custom high flow, velocity stacked, intake manifold w/Q45 throttle body
Ebay31X12X4 FMIC and 3" piping
Knockoff Tial 51mm bov
Ebay tubular T3/T4 turbo manifold rewelded and braced
Garrett T67 H.O. turbo w/ .82 turbine housing
Tial 38mm wastegate

Cooling system:

Mezier electric water pump and blockoff plate
No thermostat
Honda civic dual core aluminum radiator
Flexalite 1250cfm fan

Never saw above 185 deg water temps even during 120deg summer days daily driving the car.

Fuel system:

Walbro 255 lph intank fuel pump
Bosch 044 inline fuel pump
1/2" fuel feed line mated to -8 ss braided line
Greddy fuel rail
ID1000 fuel injectors
-6 ss braided fuel return line
Weldon 20-200psi fuel pressure regulator

Drivetrain:

04 spec V hlsd gearbox mated to a JDM P12 primera bell housing
Competition Twin Disk clutch w/ custom flywheel for 6 speed swap
Spec V axles w/ P10 hubs
Mazworx 6 speed swap motor mount kit
Spec V shifter assembly

Engine management/ignition/electronics:

AEM EMS series 1
AEM Twinfire CDI box
AEM UEGO wideband
AEM boost solenoid
AEM 5 bar map sensor
Autometer electronic oil pressure gauge
GSX-R 750 pencil coils w/ new connectors and heavy 12 gauge wiring



Suspension:

Ground Control Coilovers on GR2 struts
ES bushings all the way around

Only pieces i have left are the AEM EMS and a couple spec v parts that im still looking for. Hope to have this thing out on the track by January. All work and tuning done by me.

Couple pics















My old setup was the same motor but with JWT S4 cams and stock s&r's and no portwork and a Garrett 60 trim w/ .82 turbine housing:

Here is my best run on 24psi of boost and stock intake manifold and throttle body Run breakdown 1.74 60ft, 7.31 1/8th @102mph, 11.1@131.4mph

YouTube - Nissan Sentra Turbo runs 11.10@ 131.43mph vs mod GSXR 750 bike

My best 1/8th mile came on 30psi with the aftermarket manifold and was
1.91 60ft, 7.10@108mph sputtering out. So not only did i beat my previous best 1/8th mile by .2 but also 6mph faster trap with a .2 worse 60ft. Next run after i fixed the leaking coupler that blew off on that pass which is why i coasted to 11.9@102 i broke my passenger side axle at the hub on the launch. I was running on brand new 25X8.9X13 m&h's

Here is a couple of acceleration runs on 30psi on street tires

YouTube - Turbo Sentra SE-R 30psi of boost B13 SR20DET

Couple pics of the old setup and yes the car was painted, lol

Nice.

Thanks for bring the B13 back to this site. We need one.

Good luck man and keep us posted of any updates.

nice car but i wish you were a lil neater lol the engine bay was cleand up like a show bay and u didnt hack the bumper up lol....deff a beast tho

I plan to make a nice cooling plate to connect the upper radiator support and also secure the top of the radiator. It will cover that whole front top area to make it nice and clean. Im not leaving it open like i did on the old setup. I also plan to make some brackets to hold up the front bumper better. Its all in the works. lol.

I hear you.

I was taught a long time ago, never judge the car while it is being built.
Wait for the final product.

nice build man

nice car man!

Awesome build...love b13's

Thanks for the comments guys. Ill keep this post updated as well as the link i posted. So no more having to read through a mountain of pages. haha

Pure Bad-assedness (your car AND your skills). Just wondering: VE and DE blocks not the same?

VE blocks have oil squirters. I used the block from the VE motor i had in the car. I dropped a valve in it when i reved it to 12k during a WOT mis shift to second with no rev limiter. My own fault for not programming the rev limiter. The factory ecu or chipped ones like i had i could only set my rev limiter to no higher than 8000 rpm. My cams would make power till 8500 so i took the limiter off and never put on a digital 6 or other form of rev limiter that could be set higher.

Anyways the VE block has other advantages such as grooved mains for added oiling, better oil passages for better oiling and overall just better. I drilled and tapped the oil passage to the head and plugged it. Running the VE oil pump, Gspec Aluminum pulley with just the alternator, no power steering or any of that.

ashton nice, i have been following all your build threads/vids from sr20 forums to here lol nice hope u get into the 9s and shut up all the HATERZ over there that always doubt u and talk crap LOL PROPs

Alright so today i got my shifter assembly mounted in. Instead of the normal hacking of the tunnel and shifter area and firewall. I decided since im not running an exhaust through the tunnel that I would mount the thing underneith in the tunnel. Pretty simple to do. I used some 1/8" thick flat steel, placed the shifter up and measured and cut. Used the 4 mounting points on the shifter assembly to mount onto each cross beam. Mounted up nice. If i want later i can move it up a little higher and open up the shifter area of the tunnel to clear the cable arms. But it sits nice right now where its at so im not complaining. Cables coming into the bay between the firewall and the subframe. In the pic i have it more on the drivers side but i ended up moving them to come through the opening on the passenger side where you see my fuel line coming up through. This allows for a much nicer connection to the bracket on the trans.

Here are the pics:









And i had to trim up the shifter surround of the trim to allow movement of the shifter but its on the inside where the boot normally attaches. The boot is now gonna attach to the outer ring of the surround. Clears perfectly



Like a glove.

Next on the list,

My flywheel is in the mail as well as my Garrett T67 H.O. w/ upgraded turbine housing. Good for 750-800whp with ease. Ill have the motor in the car after the flywheel gets here. And much more pics to come of the drivetrain and flywheel and stuff.

That's SICK!!

Today i spent redoing my b14 wheels and repainted them the original color i wanted. Stripped them all down, wire wheeled the hell out of them, and painted with premium Bronze wheel paint. They came out pretty good. Dont mind the tires as im putting all new ones on after the motor goes in.

Anyways here are some pics of the car ready for the drivetrain. It needed a desperate wash and wax. Next week the motor will be in, intercooler piping done, and the majority of the small stuff done.

wow, very nice.

Alright, Competition Clutch finally came through with the flywheel. I bolted it up and it fits perfectly. Final specs were .485" thicker than a normal stock sr20 flywheel and with the tob they gave me which i pressed into the TOB sleeve i had worked great. The trans bolted right up, The TOB has just a tad bit of free play so its not bound up against the Pressure plate fingers. Sits nicely by the Slave cylinder where it should be and should work like a charm.

Put my nice tucked harness on and secured it to the motor. Only wires you will be able to see are the injector clips and the TPS wire. I took some advice from many people and redid the harness a bit separating my 540V primaries and signal wires for the COP's from the rest of the harness so no interferance will take place at all between the shielded signal wires. The COP harness tucked right up under the intake manifold on top of the coolant pipes and the rest of the harness about 10" lower. Came out really nice and should keep the engine bay very very clean looking.

Here are some pics:





smaller tob for the twin disk





harness all in place



Nobody will see anything back here





More to come later today. Motor is going into the car for the final time and will be waiting on the EMS.

Got the motor and trans in, everything bolted up great without issues. Instead of hoping to find a Spec V trans side mount I used the Altima one i got and just trimmed it up and drilled new holes about 1 1/4" lower than the original holes. This is where it sat when the crossmember and passenger side mount were bolted up. Installation went great.

Only one hitch along the way. The speed sensor. If you are not careful and dont look down into the trans to see where the speedo drive gear on the diff is you will get this wrong. The speed sensor from a b13 or b14 does not bolt back in the same location. If you try to put it in with the tab lined up with the hole you will forcefully have to get it in and you will damage teeth on the gear of the speed sensor. (I found out the hard way luckily it was not anything to worry about. Im pretty sure with these you will have to cut the tab off and the sensor will rotate clockwise about 1/4 turn or about 90 to 110 deg for the gear to be on the diff properly. The speed sensor if you have it in the right position will go in perfectly easy with no forcing at all. You will have to use a bolt with a larger washer to hold the speed sensor in place. The washer is to catch on the side of the sensor applying downward force.

Other than that nothing too hard about the install. Here are some pics. Off the top of my head, if i have to find 5th gear quick from 4th or any other, its a pain, if you go even slightly too far to the right no go. haha. Ill get used to it. The shifter feels great all hooked up. The fuel lines are hooked up The harness is all in place and ready to be hooked up to the EMS

Here are some pics. sorry for the night pics but its better than nothing, haha

Shifter cables all hooked up and secured









Here you can see the coil on plug harness separated from the rest of the harness.





Tomorrow im gonna install the electric water pump back in, make a bracket for the top of the radiator that looks nicer than my last bracket, have the downpipe cut off and rewelded to rotate it a bit and move it downward a tad more, get the bov welded onto a piece of straight pipe thats going to go from the driver bottom corner of the bay to the OEM black pipe you see in the pics. Finish the rest of the intercooler pipes which is just one other one after that and then swap the outer joint of the driver side axle onto the spec v one i received today and install the hubs and stuff and get the car back on the ground on all 4 ready for an ECU.

Little bit more info, the stock b13 b14 sr20 lsd axle outer CV joints mate right up to the spec V axle shaft. Im keeping my stock brakes and hubs and wheels. There is more info on this at the link i posted in the first post if anyone is interested to see pics of the axle. Your spec V's have huge axles but all in all it still necks down to the same size as the SR20 axle at the outer CV. Our SR20 axles are decent size anyways, but as it sits im using all spec V axles except the outer CV's which are my old stock ones.

Car prepped for track today! Sick!!! Good luck Ashton!

gl man! the car looks dangerous haha

omg
13"x9 slicks
twin disk clutch
relocated shifter
electric waterpump
very near 10 sec times
over 130mph top end

Ash, so nasty
i'd rock it, holes or no holes

yes,yes,yes