so im sitting in a parking lot with the car off and music on. i start my car and it idled kinda high, then it bogged down a lot, to like 200-400 rpms. then loped between 200-1300 rpms. it usually idles around 700rpms. ok. so i looked at my safc and nothing on it seemed messed up. however, i was throwing a check engine light. so i disconnect my battery for a while and let everything just reset. i start the car again and same shit. so i re-initialized the safc and then the car ran much better.. but i konw the settings for hotwire is 1-1, and pressure is 18-18. well now the car is running with the pressure at 1-1 and if i put it anyhigher it bogs down and stalls. if anyone knows what the frank miight have happened please let me know!
dont mess with the pressure, stay at hotwire and it should be 19in 19out and then 1in 1out, if u have the safc2 if not then it's 1in 1out, 1in 1out
well. i have the neo. i konw the hotwire is 1 in 1 out. and the pressure always read 18 in 18 out. until i re-initialized the safc. not the pressure reads 1 in 1 out. and the car runs better but im still throwing a check engine light.
wuts the check engine light for? and u cant reset the light by unpluging ur battery, gotta get it removed with the obd scanner or just wait til it goes away after a few days
oh true.. i guess i should just get the car re-tuned. it was tuned once at no limit. do u know how much it is to get it tuned?
edit: the check engine light... idk what its for but it came on when i started my car and it was all wack.
nah i dont have a wideband and i think the tune was lost before i got the car but im not positive. so idk what the correction settings were or should be =/
then if u get a dyno tune it's like in the 200's i think, not sure wut they charge but it's around there.
ouch. lol aight thanks..
im pretty sure nolimit is the same at 200 atleast it was when i went last year
Do the pedal trick and find out the code and then clear it. Report back.
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yo I live in north babylon. if you want to swing by i will read the code for you
i dont konw how to do the pedal dance lol.
and v-spectech; i cant right now but would you be around later?
i'm off all day monday
Something similar happened to me...And turned out to be a loose battery cable...GL
In car ECM Diagnostics/ECM Reset procedure:
1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the MIL (SES) light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.
Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.
The ECM code repeats intself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode.
You can look up the trouble codes in the ESM/FSM; there's a bunch of them. In the ESM, refer to page EC-639.
Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.
You can clear the code (and the annoying MIL) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while in Diagnostic Test Mode II. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).
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throttle relearn fun fun done that a ton of times by the sound of it could possibly be ur issue
i took it to autozone and they did a free code read. MAF, i bought some maf cleaner and soaked that shit. it runs better, but since i re-initialized the safc my throttle points were messed up but i figured out how to change it on the neo and i fixed that as well so i think its almost back to normal, just need it re-tuned.