Thread: Boost Your B16

So this is a semi-custom process but can be done by many owners at home, with some help from experienced mechanic friends. This is a semi-detailed (no pics yet) of how to boost the B16 QR25.

parts needed:
b15 treadstone log manifold
b15 treadstone downpipe (heat wrap this before installing)
b15 treadstone intercooler
turbo blanket (needed to protect radiator wiring which can ruin the ECU, ebay)
ford racing 440cc injectors (supplied by treadstone)
blow-off valve (any brand will do, purchased HKS through treadstone)
wastegate (any brand will do, purchased TN through treadstone)
turbo (any brand will do, purchased TN through treadstone, must be 4bolt)
2 intercooler piping kits (purchased generic kits from ebay)
tuning device (safc2 or neo)
T fitting for oil pressure sending unit
extra vacuum lines
extra plastic T's for vac lines OR eagle vacuum manifold (much easier)
wideband guage (i used a aem uego)
5 quarts synthetic oil + oil filter
boost gauge
turbo timer (not needed but very helpful in turbo longevity)

uninstall process:
remove alternator
remove o2 sensors (be careful, use o2 sensor socket, tough to remove)
remove exhaust manifold
remove ECU (located in front of battery)
remove battery
remove intake system
remove intake manifold
remove injectors
remove fuel rail
remove stock oil pressure sending unit
remove front bumper
remove Styrofoam support
drain oil and remove filter
remove upper radiator hose
remove radiator fans (not required but makes life easier)

install process:
assemble turbo, downpipe and wastegate together BEFORE installing onto car.

Intake manifold/Injectors/fuel rail:
You will need to modify the fuel rail to fit the injectors since they are longer than stock. To do this, we just cut the holes for the stock injectors and then used some thick washers to space it out further to allow more height for the injectors. You will have to splice the new injectors into the stock wiring as they are NOT plug-n-play. Reinstall the rail + injectors but leave the intake manifold off for now. You will then need to install the T for the oil pressure sending unit. This will allow u to hook up the oil feed line for the turbo. Run that line over the motor and place it where the turbo would be located. Now go ahead and reinstall the intake manifold so that part of the install is complete.

Mounting the FMIC:
Place the FMIC under the frame where you would want it located (centered). Have your buddy hold the bumper up OVER the FMIC to make sure it is centered and doesnt hit anything. Once you have it placed, take the bumper back off, mark your points and this is where you will install the brackets. We used some custom THICK L-shaped brackets from home depot/lowes or wherever u find em. You then drill into the frame where you marked for the mounts. Find bolts long enuff to go through the FMIC mounts and the frame. Install mounts and install FMIC.

Installing the turbo components:
Since you already assembled the hot parts off the car, it will make it easier to get on the car. This is a SUPER bitch and you will curse and hate life and want to kill urself but it can be done. You will need to put the manifold onto the car, install the nuts/bolts so its on tight. You then take the hot parts, fit them on, placing the turbo on the manifold as if it were installed. Put those bolts in but again, loosely. IMO, to make ur life easier in the future, you will want to STUD the manifold so the bolts dont back out (like they did to every treadstone kit owner). Now that you have the hot parts on the car, tighten down all the bolts for the turbo to the manifold and make sure your wastegate and downpipe are all nice and tight. Install the oil feed line into the top of the turbo. Make sure its pointed directly upwards. You might have to clock the turbo to get this accomplished. You will have to tap the pan, so make sure you take the pan off the car (upper and lower) and either you can do it or have it professionally done. This will be used to connect your oil return line to the bottom of the turbo. You will be running open DP until you can get to an exhaust shop that can either make u a midpipe to connect to the DP or will custom weld a bend to match up the DP to the MP. There is no way I have found to run a filter for the turbo but I have been boosting for 30k miles with no issues yet. You will need to buy some plain radiator hose and just make a straight piece to connect the radiator and motor. The stock one has curves that interefere with the turbo.

Installing the IC piping to complete the project:
This is just a matter of patience and precise measuring. The piping size off the turbo outlet is 2" or 2.25" if I recall (its been 2yrs). That will go straight down to a 90* elbow, which is then routed around the frame and FMIC and go into the driver's side of the FMIC. Then the passenger side FMIC needs a 90* elbow going up. Route the piping up and over the top of the FMIC and then back down the driver's side above the inlet. Then route the piping up the intake passage and match it up so it fits into the intake manifold. Once you have it all measured and installed, locate where you want the BOV (before the MAF) and weld on the flange for whatever brand wastegate u purchased. You will want to use t-bolt clamps only as the standard hose clamps SUCK ASS. Also, do NOT use the couplers in the ebay piping kits as they will blow out, ALOT. Buy some quality couplers from Treadstone, where T-bolt clamps can be purchased as well.

Installing the safc2 for tuning:



--->wiring
ground - pin 12 - black
ignition power - pin 93 - blue/red
throttle positoin sensor - pin 37 - red
maf - pin 58 - violet
rpm signal (injector) - pin 31 - green
knock sensor - pin 61 - white

--->settings
sensor type - hotwire
in/out 1-1 and 24-24
set on 1 cylinder mode and the arrow pointing to the top right



This should cover just about everything. Again, this was done 2 yrs ago so I may have left minor details out due to memory issues (shhhh) but this will definitely get u up and running. You'll have to street tune it urself but thats pretty simple. Enjoy and good luck!

Originally Posted by majormods

set on 1 cylinder mode and the arrow pointing to the top right

??? Should this not be 4?

Originally Posted by SilverBullet

??? Should this not be 4?

Not if the rpm signal is being supplied from a single injector.

God that install looks horrible.

Originally Posted by QR25DE_SpecV

God that install looks horrible.

It's a much better idea to use an intercooler with the inlet/outlet on the same (driver) side. I don't like how the new B16 treadstone kit routes the i/c piping either.

That install was the first ever and no one did another for over a year or 2 after me. yes, after installing it, the IC would've been much better with an in/out on the driver side, but at the time of purchasing everything, WHO KNEW! Nothing done the first time is ever perfect. I dunno how treadstone's kit is so I can't comment on that.

This setup yielded 300whp at 10psi and never had an issue.