Thread: Jesse's fully built N/A QR..

Originally Posted by MisterNuts

Probably stating the obvious, but meth only gains power through tuning. I've seen an SR20DET S13 lose power with a meth kit before tuning.

i agree.

Originally Posted by alex_b13

i know it gains power. but finish first the project than do what he like.

Well yea of course, the motor has got to be complete and in the car, I'm just talking as far as another tuning tool, meth gives you the capability to keep the timing advanced more than you would normally be able to, so it helps as far as a tuning and drivability tool, I've never seen a car lose power with meth unless it wasn't tuned properly or the kit was just bolted on without adjusting the mixture, you can't put straight meth into it that will make you loose some power you need to mix it usually 40%meth 60%water. Meth to help with pre-detonation, and efficient burning, along with cleaning the carbon from the chambers and intake; while the Water keeps the charge temps down, and when it's the combustion chamber the single oxygen molecule seperates under pressure and combustion allowing for a cooler chamber temp and also a larger(not by much) explosion in the chamber which in turn means more power =)

I have a very good understanding of how methanol/water plays a part in the suppresion of detonation, and, cooling, due to it's high heat latency.

Running water/meth many increase power slightly due to the ability to run a more aggresive timing curve, and we might end up trying it. However, I don't think we'll see huge gains that make it worth the effort/risk of pump failure/nozzle clogging. If a tune is based on a properly working meth/water injection system, and that system falters, then, you put the engine at risk. In this case, meth/water injection might yield another 5-6whp through more aggresive timing, but, to me, it's not really worth the money/risk.

I've used meth on turbo/non-intercooled vehicles with great success, but, I'm always concerned about a system failure, or nozzle getting clogged. IMO, it's just one more thing to worry about. But, it DOES work..

Travis

Originally Posted by shortcut10

Well yea of course, the motor has got to be complete and in the car, I'm just talking as far as another tuning tool, meth gives you the capability to keep the timing advanced more than you would normally be able to, so it helps as far as a tuning and drivability tool, I've never seen a car lose power with meth unless it wasn't tuned properly or the kit was just bolted on without adjusting the mixture, you can't put straight meth into it that will make you loose some power you need to mix it usually 40%meth 60%water. Meth to help with pre-detonation, and efficient burning, along with cleaning the carbon from the chambers and intake; while the Water keeps the charge temps down, and when it's the combustion chamber the single oxygen molecule seperates under pressure and combustion allowing for a cooler chamber temp and also a larger(not by much) explosion in the chamber which in turn means more power =)

E85

been a couple weeks, done yet?

Update...

Short block is finished/assembled at the machine shop..

Cylinder head is at the head shop, and I just got a set of cam caps from Jesse (owner) late last week. It looks like he mixed up the big cap on the end with another head that he had over there.. and it didn't match up properly. The caps are machined specifically to each head. Fortunately, I have a few caps here, and it looks like one will work fine with just a line hone. So, that'll be wrapped up this week. Springs arrived and will go in with new valve stem seals. Head will be surfaced, hot tanked, and prepped for installation, as well.

So, a minor setback, but, nothing serious..

Travis

Originally Posted by B15Paper02

been a couple weeks, done yet?

lol

Originally Posted by smokeyV

lol

What? just wanted an update since it is close to completion

I should have assembled pics next week..

i cant wait to see the numbers put down with this motor....

Lost a full week.. I was sick with the flu, so, I'm a week behind. The short block is ready to go at the machine shop.. I'm just waiting for my buddy to get back with his truck so we can go get it on Friday. Otherwise, it would have been finished last week.

Pic of the exhaust side while in the middle of working on it a few weeks ago.. (forgot to upload it)



Got the head back today from the head shop.. Came out awesome.. Nice and clean, with a shaved seating surface (was warped .002-.003"), and ready to install on the short block. I'll have that back on Friday, and I'll have pics up during the day.




Finally coming together, and we'll start working on the custom long tube header with 3" collector, along with the custom ITB's.

Travis

BAM!! Got the parts back late last night.. block and crank are all machined/clean, and ready to go. I spent last night/the entire day today putting this together.


So fresh and so clean, clean.. New bearings installed..


Crank installed, new 07+ main bolts installed..


Oil support rail, under the oil scraper ring.. Whenever the pin boss intersects the oil ring groove, it's a good idea to run a set of rails to support the rings in this void. Gives better oil control..


Goodies..


Double checking the machine shop's ring gap setting.. Never hurts to check.. .020" on this top compression ring (stainless.. btw..)


A cheap ring expander can save your fingers (and your rings from snapping/bending)


Nice dab of Lubriplate assembly grease..


Pistons/rods installed.. ready for the head to go on..


It's not bolted down yet.. Just tossed it on for a pic. I'm missing the two dowel pins that align the head to the block. I have a set ordered for next week.

The final piston to wall clearance was left a little on the loose side (.005") and we set the ring gap a tad loose (.020"/.022") as well. This will allow Jesse to spray a big shot of nitrous if he ever chooses to do so. It'll make for a little more piston noise, but, it's safer than going too tight and allowing a piston to catch the wall/scuff.

All critical clearances are as follows:

Piston to wall (as set by machine shop):
1- .0052"
2- .0050"
3- .0053
4- .0051"

Ring gap (set by machine shop, and double checked by me):
1- .019"/.021"
2- .020"/.022"
3- .020"/.021"
4- .020"/.022"

Crankshaft end play (thrust washer clearance)- .007"
Crank shaft runout- .0005"

Rod bearing to journal clearance:
1- .0025"
2- .0023"
3- .0026"
4- .0026"

Main bearing to journal clearance:
1- .001"
2- .0012"
3- .0011"
4- .0012"

Piston pin to pin boss (set by machine shop)- .0005" (all 4)
Piston pin to rod bushing (Small end) (set by machine shop)- .0005" (all 4)
Rod big end side clearance (space between the side of the rod and the crank pin)- .008" (all 4)

I'm pooped.. going drink a few beers and enjoy my weekend..

Travis

dam thats looking real fresh cant wait to its all together, i bet jesse is getting real excited

Jesse hasn't even seen it yet.. lol..

nice work man!

nice! can't wait to see this completed...

Engine will be complete this week, and then it's on to the ITB's and header.

Originally Posted by Trav4011

Engine will be complete this week, and then it's on to the ITB's and header.

I'm confused. Are you going to have ITBs close to the head going into runners->collector->filter or what?

the only ITB's I've ever seen were open-air (no filter, no tubes,etc)

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