Thread: Head build

I just bought a spare head from Armoredspecv that im building. So far my plans with it are cams(havent decided what ones), JWT valve springs, PnP and valve retainers. Not sure if i wanna get valves too. First off the head was pretty dirty and i couldnt figure out how i wanted to clean it. What i ended up doing was getting 4 gallons of purple power and a 5 gallon bucket and let it soak over night.
Before

After, lets see if you can figure out what side was soaking


I didnt get a pic of the bottom end till after i soaked it but it was just as bad as the top. I started to polish the combustion chamber. the 2 on the right are almost done





I also started to grind the lip down on the intake and exhaust ports. Ill post more pics as i get more into it.

nice. looking good

also wondering if its worth it to get the valve seats recut? Just trying to figure out what all i can do to make this head the best

Looks good man! That purple power shit is awesome.

If you want it to be the best I would continue with where your going. 1mm larger valves with a 3 angle valve job, brass valve guides, and titanium retainers and locks if you can get them. Springs, cams are obviously Dependant on your setup.

Originally Posted by kruton1990

also wondering if its worth it to get the valve seats recut? Just trying to figure out what all i can do to make this head the best

Just clean up the ports.. sharp edges, and casting flash. Beyond that, I wouldn't mess around with the port geometry too much. You can easily screw up low lift flow with the QR head if you don't know what you're doing. If you just clean it up, you'll pick up an honest 8-10whp. Beyond that, it's not worth going with bigger valves unless you're reshaping the ports. The stock valves aren't a restriction with the stock ports.

Get a good valve job, with back cut. The stock guides are fine.. They're small, and although brass helps to transfer heat away from the stems better than the stock powder metal guides, it also decreases the lifespan of the head. Brass wears a lot faster than iron/steel.

that cleaned up nice

That shit defently worked to clean up the head. Good luck with your build.

Thanks all for the input. I was wondering if Ferrea titanium retainers would work with JWT springs. The only other retainers ive seen is BC and those come with the springs. Im not sure which spring is better

I would guess that they are going to be the same as the oem plastic shits. Just buy one and compare it lol I believe they are <$20 each

what should i do about this? Its on the driver side of the motor
Exhaust Side


Intake Side

also would it help to shave these down to like a knife edge? I know some people have done that with the TB. Im just thinking along the same concept

one more thing Whats the difference between JWT and BC springs?

I inspected the head before and I didn't notice that. It looks like there was some metal on metal going on there. Can you get some clearer pics of that please?

As far as the runner splits into the valve bowls, yes you can knife edge them.....carefully. its very easy to knick or dig into the runner.

As for the valvetrain, or parts in general, I have spoken with jim from jwt numerous times about multiple facets of engine builds. Jwt has spent years and shitloads of money on r&d for their products whereas brian Crower, well....doesn't. Comparable with obx imo. Ill never buy a bc product but its your decision.

You don't want to just knife edge that divider.. The reason I do it, is because I'm actually enlarging the entire port on each side of the divider. So, it just looks like it's knife edged. You really don't want a sharp edge right there just for the heck of it. The radiused edge actually flows better. The only reason that I don't radius mine as much is because there isn't enough material to put a good radius, without moving the divider way back in the port. In that case, the good outweighs the bad with the port geometry changes.

Originally Posted by kruton1990

also would it help to shave these down to like a knife edge? I know some people have done that with the TB. Im just thinking along the same concept

I didnt even notice that on yours trav but thanks. Saves me a lot of grinding and Armored ill get some more pics for you later

how do you remove the valve guides?

That should be performed by a machine shop.

thats what i thought. Thanks

ok here are some more pics of the intake cam side. Not sure what i should do about it. if was from the intake cam "pin". Looked like it was pushed out a tad so thats how it carved the lip in it.

I believe the lip is already there. It looks like some bad metal on metal was going on right there. Remember that motor blew up. I apologize for the damage. I wish I would have seen that beforehand. Im nor really sure what can be done with that.