So the car is officially getting a turbo installed, but this will be my very first time I ever deal with this setup. I don't exactly know how the wastegate differences work except it's actual concept (release excessive pressure from the turbo?). The only questions I have deal with the difference between spring sizes (PSI) and what it means for the turbo/wastegate. If I am boosting about 10-12 pounds (high boost) on stock motor, what is recommended for me (running Tial 38mm). I would also like to run low 6 daily. Please no critisism, forgive my turbo starter skills.
Thanks!!
Get a spring that is rated around what you'd like your low boost setting to be (you can't run less boost than what it is rated at with a boost controller). Keep in mind wastegate psi ratings are generally 1-2psi HIGHER than you will see on your boost gauge. Then just get a quality dual stage boost controller and you'll be set.
Thank you for your response MisterNuts lol. Also, spring rate number mean it's doubled for highest boost capacity? example: 6 psi spring means lowest 6psi, highest 12psi?
Like Karl said, run a spring that you want your lowest setting, then with a boost controller you can go as high as you want possible with the equipment you have.
Here's a pretty good explanation. The basics of boost control, wastegates and how to turn up the boost. - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash
02/03 ECU to 04/05 non-NATS ECU swap harnesses
http://www.b15u.com/members-services...p-harness.html
Got a dead ECU? Let me buy them from you.
http://www.b15u.com/parts-wanted/219...tyle-ecus.html
I really appreciate you going out of your way for this info Alex, this really kicked me in the ass lol. Much appreciated!
Yeah, like these guys have said. Hopefully it makes sense now.
There is also a thread in the Force Induction section with WG spring rates, if you need help figureing out what color/size you need for a certain PSI.
You can't run a lower PSI than the spring, but you can run much higher usually. I'm running a 5lbs spring right now, at 9psi daily. I can go down to 5psi if I want, or go higher, although I'm not sure what the max recommended would be.
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Performance: QR25DE-T 308whp and 314wtq at 9.5psi
Suspension: Nismo R-tune bushing kit/Nismo RSB/FSB/4pt lower brace/4pt trunk bar/9k BC Racing Coilovers/ALK/15mm spacers/prothane mounts/ 17x7 O.Z Ultraleggeras with 225/45/17 P960 AS Pole Positions
More to come...
Sorry to derail...but Sammy, do you have 2 roms in the ECU for each boost level? Assuming you do just wanted to make sure.
02/03 ECU to 04/05 non-NATS ECU swap harnesses
http://www.b15u.com/members-services...p-harness.html
Got a dead ECU? Let me buy them from you.
http://www.b15u.com/parts-wanted/219...tyle-ecus.html
I think that the safe psi for stock is 9 and some will say that even that is pushing it.
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<< Yuh dun know!!
Cross......... Angry........ Miserable.........
SoundEfx up in here causing trouble......
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Good point J. I just realized something too. I'm running a Garrett 60-1 BB, seeing as to the size of the turbo being pretty big, I won't see any real pressure until about 3.5k+. So I would technically be saving my money keeping the 10psi spring and daily drive at 3k- (which I always do ofcourse). The real question now will be answered me doing some research on how much a stock long block QR25 can hold on a 60-1![]()
I started at 5psi for about 6 months, got bored bumped it up to 7psi. After 2 years got bored again and finally went to 9psi. But 9 is pushing it on stock internals. And now I'm at 0 psi. lol
Small red spring, 6psi would be perfect for what your goals are.
Molten: No, you can't control boost level with uprev, and I have a manual controller. I guess I could have a low boost map if I wanted... But my controller is still manual and in the engine bay. Lol. I just have it tuned for 9.5psi and drive it like that daily.
And don't be afraid of 9psi if you have a good tune. There has been more than a couple handfuls of people who have rocked 9psi daily for a few years.
HOW TO USE THE B15U.COM SEARCH!
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ANYTHING MADE THAT DID NOT HAVE A PURPOSE
Performance: QR25DE-T 308whp and 314wtq at 9.5psi
Suspension: Nismo R-tune bushing kit/Nismo RSB/FSB/4pt lower brace/4pt trunk bar/9k BC Racing Coilovers/ALK/15mm spacers/prothane mounts/ 17x7 O.Z Ultraleggeras with 225/45/17 P960 AS Pole Positions
More to come...
i've ran 7psi for over a year, and plan on going to 10 since i'm on uprev. who knows, i may go to 11-12?
had a buddy that daily drove 15psi. his block is still together and still stock. and tuned with an safc.
so, i'd say that 9psi isn't the max, but it's getting there on stock block.
Feeling a little better lol. I guess I'll still purchase a 6psi spring in case I ever need to go lower, but I will Neo tune for 10psi daily. Since I feel confident I won't hit boost until 3.5k or more, I can daily drive safelyred springs are $33 shipped on ebay and $30 shipped for a manual boost controller.
it's not so much the dd on 10psi. sure you can run 10psi on any tune all day long if the car never gets over 3k rpms, but how long you can run it at WOT with a shit tune, or anything on the lean side will for sure make a huge difference as to how long you'll be boosting 10psi.
just make sure when you tune, you tune rich to be on the safe side with the neo.. it's better to lose a few hp from going rich, than to gain 10whp and be on the ragged edge every time you make a third gear pull.
I'll let you know in a couple monthslol i'm at between 7-9psi right now on a 60-1 no issues. don't worry bout how much psi youre pushing, tune it to the power level youre shooting for. 300whp is a ballpark "safe" hp range. once you hit the 350+ range then you need to make sure the tune is prestine.
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"I think we need to do a little street racing 101 and understand that, you know... as a general courtesy you should, uh, floor your car an additional 100mph over the speed in which you start. It's just like the, uh, '100mph courtesy'... You start at 60, you don't let off 'til 160. You start at 30, you AT LEAST go to 130. And attempting to, uh, run like Houston interstates with traffic directly in front of you... These 60 to 80 pulls; these 60 to 95mph pulls... What the fuck is that shit about?" -IMV Films
Oh at first, I will have no problem running less power to be safer. Once I get a feel and knowledge of the cars behavior, I should have matched a good tune so I won't hesitate running at WOT
Well you'll be sure to know yourself becuase I'd most likely be on 10psi no later than 2 weeks. I pray it all stays together![]()
do you have head studs or a diff head gasket at all?
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"I think we need to do a little street racing 101 and understand that, you know... as a general courtesy you should, uh, floor your car an additional 100mph over the speed in which you start. It's just like the, uh, '100mph courtesy'... You start at 60, you don't let off 'til 160. You start at 30, you AT LEAST go to 130. And attempting to, uh, run like Houston interstates with traffic directly in front of you... These 60 to 80 pulls; these 60 to 95mph pulls... What the fuck is that shit about?" -IMV Films
I ordered ARP head studs, Felpro MLS head gasket, and Supertech block guard. Hoping this is enough to hold the motor together. It has no issues on 62k miles (not original motor lol).