Thread: timing?

ok thanks im gonna call the shop with the dyno and see what he can do, if he cant adjust it i will go to the dealer thanks for the help

Please post if you blow your motor. Run a wet kit.

A Nissan Dealership can fix timing No prob!

Originally Posted by DirtySpec

A Nissan Dealership can fix timing No prob!

Nice thread revival Dirty, lol.

Dealer can only change base timing, and only by 2 degrees. Pretty weak compared to a real tuning solution that has full timing control.

Maybe he was hoping for blown motor pics!

If a dealership retards the timing by 2 dagrees os that enough to run a 75 shot wet kit and will that "tune" hold on the ecu without some sort of piggyback? Sorry for the thread jack, but its not too far aff the ops question

Originally Posted by 04specvnj

If a dealership retards the timing by 2 dagrees os that enough to run a 75 shot wet kit and will that "tune" hold on the ecu without some sort of piggyback? Sorry for the thread jack, but its not too far aff the ops question

Running nitrous with no tuning method or wideband is a recipe for disaster. I would not do it.

What elsr do you have to tune and what do you have to tune it to? Afr? Cam timing?

Originally Posted by 04specvnj

What elsr do you have to tune and what do you have to tune it to? Afr? Cam timing?

At minimum an AFC and a wideband. IIRC, smokeyV was saying to run around 12:1 afr to keep it safe.
Cam timing and ignition timing would be nice, but not necessary, and would require a standalone/Osiris/etc. to control.

You don't necessarily need to tune via piggyback / whatever newfangled thing is out now with nitrous. You tune by the fuel jets in the fogger.

Running nitrous without a wideband sounds about as smart as playing Russian roulette with 5 of 6 in the chamber. Don't be a cheap Sentra owner and skip out on it.

^ Listen to Garg.

Originally Posted by littleredmachine

You don't necessarily need to tune via piggyback / whatever newfangled thing is out now with nitrous. You tune by the fuel jets in the fogger.

Running nitrous without a wideband sounds about as smart as playing Russian roulette with 5 of 6 in the chamber. Don't be a cheap Sentra owner and skip out on it.

I'm not planning on skipping out on anything just gettin educated

You don't need a wideband if you read your plugs. Run colder plugs and the best pump gas you can get. You will still need more fuel. 12:1 Afr is ok but really when spraying you want to be as close to 12.5:1 as you can get. Most people think that if you just run rich you will be safe. Also not true. If you have too much fuel it can get between the ring and ignite causing all kinds of damage. You can only take out 2 degrees with consult. At a 75 shot that is still cutting it close on 93 octane pump gas. I've been running a 75 shot on a stock motor for 2+ years. I've been through 30+ refils and have had no failures. Other than trans. Run a wet kit it's a lot easier. If you want to run a 100 shot I would suggest a better pump, a wet kit with a rpm/tps window switch,2 step colder iridium plugs, take out 2 degrees with consult, a fuel pressure cut off switch and maybe run vp street blaze when you plan on spraying

Just an FYI the outlaw 10.5 nitrous record holder doesn't use a wideband. He says it's better to read plugs

Originally Posted by Circuit00C

You don't need a wideband if you read your plugs. Run colder plugs and the best pump gas you can get. You will still need more fuel. 12:1 Afr is ok but really when spraying you want to be as close to 12.5:1 as you can get. Most people think that if you just run rich you will be safe. Also not true. If you have too much fuel it can get between the ring and ignite causing all kinds of damage. You can only take out 2 degrees with consult. At a 75 shot that is still cutting it close on 93 octane pump gas. I've been running a 75 shot on a stock motor for 2+ years. I've been through 30+ refils and have had no failures. Other than trans. Run a wet kit it's a lot easier. If you want to run a 100 shot I would suggest a better pump, a wet kit with a rpm/tps window switch,2 step colder iridium plugs, take out 2 degrees with consult, a fuel pressure cut off switch and maybe run vp street blaze when you plan on spraying

And if your fuel solenoid goes out while spraying? With a wideband, you at least have half a shot of cutting the juice before a kaboom.

That's exactly what happened to me on my 07. I definitely saw a 15 on my wideband. My fuel solenoid crapped out mid-pull. Killed the system and saved my motor. Ironically, the top part of the plug was blown off.

Reading plugs on a blown motor won't do much good for anyone involved.

A wideband is a failsafe and a great diagnostic tool. It's relatively cheap and you can carry it over to your next vehicle you own. It's retarded to argue against a valuable part.

Originally Posted by 04specvnj

I'm not planning on skipping out on anything just gettin educated

I didn't mean to come off harsh at all and I'm very glad you're reading into it / asking questions. Too many people get the idea of using nitrous (and other power-adders, for that matter) and don't read into things enough. It can be a very serious thing, especially on a daily driver if it goes "boom".

Thanks guys, so if I want to run a 75 shot with a wet kit and got colder plugs, retard timing via consult II, and have a afr of 12:1 monitored by a safcII id be pretty safe?

Originally Posted by 04specvnj

Thanks guys, so if I want to run a 75 shot with a wet kit and got colder plugs, retard timing via consult II, and have a afr of 12:1 monitored by a safcII id be pretty safe?

Definitely a wet kit on a QR. Dry kit is recipe for disaster

One step colder plugs and retarding the timing is a good idea.

You don't really need the safc2 for nitrous. You tune by the jets that are in the fogger for fuel.

This isn't to say that an safc2 is a bad idea. Afterall, tuning while off the bottle is a great idea to get a bit more power out of the car.

You'd be perfectly safe on a 75. Make sure to also look into the other safety devices for spraying. PM either smokeyv (Bob) or I. We can show you a bunch of stuff to look for.

e85 problem solved.

i'm stuck in the same place.
there is no way for the 02 ecu to have variable timing
you can have up to 2* advance or retard done by a dealer or orisis tuner
but how ridiculous, every time i want to use the n20, i have to go to the dealer and have my timing changed
no way

imo
leave timing stock
up grade the pump [wrx or 190 walbro]
use 5 gallons unleaded race gas [check vp] in the normal tank [just make sure you have enough fuel for 1/3 tank]
2 steps colder plugs [copper]

make a short 300ft run on the new plugs , cut it clean, plugs should be grey brown in color and the whitish band across the side electrode [timing mark] should be toward the center electrode, but not at the plug edge
good to go

the advantage of the wet system, is that, while it uses the same fuel source and pump, it is Independently tunable for afr, under n20 [by changing the fuel jets]

edit
cut it short
just listen to this guy, littleredmachine

i just can't stand running around with retarded timing na

Originally Posted by jolee

e85 problem solved.

imo
for the 02s this theoretically doesn't work as well, because [besides larger injectors] it still requires some timing retard for the larger nitrous shots

race gas, while more expensive, is much higher octane and better compensates for the 02s lack of timing variability
in addition it allows 93 octane and better mpg on the street [w/o nitrous use]