Written By: Evildriver
Some things to note are: I bought a new intake manifold gasket (part # 14032-8J000) to make sure I got a good seal again, but from what I could see the stock gasket looked to be in fairly good condition. I decided to keep
the Throttle Body ATTACHED to my Intake Manifold, instead of removing it. I did everything from the left (passenger side) to the right (driver side). And I also labeled each bolt and where it came from with a number using the masking tape and pen. I basically did everything without looking at the previous How To. Just look around and you can probably figure
out what to do too.
1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
Tools Needed
Socket wrench
17mm socket and deep socket
12mm socket and deep socket
10mm socket and deep socket
Socket Extension
17mm Wrench
12mm Wrench
10mm Wrench
8mm Wrench
Flat-head Screwdriver
Philips Screwdriver
Pliers
Masking tape and pen
Safety glasses
Red LOCTITE!!! *key addition to this project smiley-laugh*
Here are some beginning pictures:
Step 1:
Remove the bolts and nuts highlighted on the strut bar and take out the strut bar.
Step 2:
Remove the two bolts highlighted. The brackets will come off once you take the bolts out. Just move them to the side. And there is also a plug that you will have to disconnect.
Step 3:
Remove the two bolts highlighted. The whole assembly will come loose. Just move it forwards so it can clear the manifold.
Step 4:
Move the clip down the hose. Slide the hose off of the manifold. Hint: CAREFULLY using a flat-head screwdriver helps with getting it off.
Step 5:
Remove the two bolts highlighted. Be careful when taking this out, there is a gasket that you need on it that falls off easily. Remove the hose from the clip it is in.
Step 6:
Remove the hose AND clips from the bracket. It helped me to remove the two bolts highlighted in red to get the clips out of the bracket easier. But after getting the clips out, put the bolts back in.
Step 7:
Remove the hose from its clip. Loosen the bolt on the air intake and then pull the intake off of the throttle body.
Step 8:
Move the clips down both hoses highlighted. Hint: CAREFULLY using a flat-head screwdriver helps with getting it off. Take the hoses off of the manifold. CAUTION, these hoses will have some coolant in them, but they won’t leak much if any. I zip-tied the hoses in an upright position so they wouldn’t leak and I wouldn’t have to worry about them.
Step 9:
Remove the two bolts highlighted. There are also two bolts further back on this bracket that need to come off, they are shown in the next picture.
Step 10:
Remove the two bolts highlighted. Then the bracket will come loose and you can take it off.
Step 11:
Move the clips down the hose highlighted. Take the hose off of the manifold. Remove the plug highlighted as well.
Step 12:
Remove the plug highlighted.
Alright, we have the majority of the work done now. Next up is removing the actual intake manifold. I will start this back on the left side (passenger side), and move to the right side (driver side). And this is where you want to use a deep socket AND extension to reach the bolts and nuts.
Step 13:
Remove the nut highlighted.
Step 14:
Remove the bolts highlighted. The top right is the front of the car, the bottom left is the back of the car. The front bolt will be longer than the back bolt.
Step 15:
Remove the bolt highlighted.
Step 16:
Remove the bolts highlighted. Again, the top right is the front of the car, and the bottom left is the back of the car. And the front will be longer than the back bolt.
Step 17:
Remove the nut highlighted.
Once you have all of those nuts and bolts out, you can start to pull out the intake manifold. I would suggest having two people for this job, since there is one more step you will need to do once you have the intake manifold half ways off.
Step 18:
SLOWLY pull off the intake manifold. There will be one more very small air hose connected to the intake manifold, and I don’t have a picture of this. But, remove this hose. Hint: CAREFULLY using a flat-head screwdriver helps with getting it off. Once you have the hose off, you can pull the intake manifold out.
Here is what everything will look like at this point.
Step 19:
Cover the open runners with a cloth to prevent too much dust/dirt/whatever from getting in them. CAREFULLY remove ONE screw at a time, apply red loctite all the way around the screw, and put the screw back in. Hint: It helps to have a screwdriver than has a magnetic tip on it so that you don’t drop the screw. Do this for each screw. Here is a close-up of
the runners.
Step 20:
Reinstall everything in the reverse order that you took it apart. Double-check that all bolts, hoses, plugs, and clips are all connected. Double-check that you have all tools out of the engine bay.
After that, I started up the car to make sure it ran. Then I turned it off right away, to give the loctite time to dry (preferably overnight).
Good luck, and happy modding.
Last edited by MisterNuts; 11-25-2011 at 06:23 PM.
Is there a gasket between the upper and lower IM?
Doesn't look like it..
Oh nevermind.. Don't reply. lol
what year does it have these problems? about the butterfly screws?
wow... i have replaced few things already like MAF,O2 sensor. but i still have this CEL problem. And i hear something clinging when accelerating the gas should it be that throttle loose? or my aftermarket headers? more like metal shaking when pressing the gas pedal quickly.
i hear it to but i think its just the header cover or something along those lines
Ahh okie!! thanks for that info,scared the hell outta me. But what is the symptom about that butterfly screw issues?
I did this this Sunday. Everything went smooth. I also decided to cleaned the TB and intake manifold with brake cleaner since i had it off. Just to be safe, I let it sit overnight so locktite could dry. Next day I started the car and it was idling crazy. It would go to 3500rpm and drop to 3000 then again to 3500 and it kept bouncing like that.
After checking all the hoses for leaks. I did idle relearn. In instructions it says to warm up the car. As i did that Idle slowly dropped and now its bouncing between 1500 and 2000rpms.
Anyone have any suggestions? I don't know what else to check for. Driving me nuts.
Thanks in advance guys.
You sure there are no hose leaks? It's easy to overlook, I've done it many times before. Also, are you sure the idle relearn actually happened? I had to do it twice before it actually worked (had to use a timer instead of counting in my head).
2003 SE-R Spec V - Nismo SRI with K&N cone filter, Enkei 5+, washer wheel hop mod, BS chain cut, Hurst pistol grip shift knob, CX Racing radiator, Hawk HPS pads - hopefully more to come
Fix hard starting for about $20 http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific-installation-guides-technical-info/12861-how-fix-hard-starting-about-%2420.html
I got my intake manis and throttle body portmatched with the OE spacer kit. Everythings been off my car for a lil over a month.. This write-up will help me reassemble everything, THANK YOU!
im gonna do this hopefully this weekend (if my ebay header is here by then lol) to get both problems fixed at once. what im wondering is which red loctite, 271? im not positive but i thought there were a few different types of each color. thanks in advance
It really doesn't even matter. I actually used blue. People tend to use red more just because it's more permanent, but blue is definitely better than nothing. Ya know when I took my manis off one of my butterflies was so loose I could just wobble it back and forth atleast a few mms. I took a video of it. I'll post back here with it after I throw it on youtube.
ok, i guess ill pick up some 271 on my way home later then, i cant belive nissan hasnt done anything about this problem (precat also). seems like it happens to more people than not
Those are nice-looking inlet tubes. Did you do the porting? How? It doesn't look like a Dremel job.
I'm pretty sure his lower im is not ported
I'm sure he cleaned them up before taking pics. Mine looked TERRIBLE when I took em off. I'll post pics tonight when I get home.
Can't tell too bad in the pic but they were pretty dirty. My center runners were the worst for some reason. Stained a dark brown color from the PCV bull. My furthest runner to the left had the wobbly butterfly. The second one from the left was just a tad loose, and the other two were fine.
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all 4 of my butterfly valves were loose..the on on the passenger side was the worst
2002 Nissan Sentra SER Spec V: Cloud White
Custom Intake/Hotshot Header/Megan downpipe/Magnaflow Catback/UR crank pulley/BSR/AEM wideband/Apexi SAFC II/+2 timing/4650 RPM secondaries/MMI/tein springs/Knock Sensor Mod/5% tint/HID reverse lights/HID fogs/HID headlights