yea well the dude lied straight to my face and when I picked the vehicle up he was nowhere around. And they didnt lift it or show me a thing. Here's the keys and have fun was their last words as they shoved me out the door.
Not noticing any numbers in pictures of the center of my turbo. Probably not going to take it apart if that's what's needed to compare numbers. Was hoping it was easier than that lol
IIRC, the only thing on the compressor housing is the precision logo, and an ar number, on the turbine wheel, its just an ar number. IIRC, the center section doesnt have any markings on it
Talked to Joe and he said he would reimburse the cost of the ball bearing upgrade. He personally wasnt aware the turbo on my ride wasnt the race turbo I had paid for. So I edited this post to let everyone know Joe took care of the mistake and I appreciate it.
well Joe explained to me what his shop does to manufacture his turbo wheels in house....the guy at Boost Lab just called it Chinese or E-bay knock off....im not going say Joe's isnt good. It lasted a year and the whole build I got from his shop was 2k less than anywhere else and the tune is perfect....I mean perfection. I know things happen...as long as he is a man of his word everything is fair and cool
I have journal bearing. Not bothered by that. BB is better and probably definitely worth the extra money. But nothing really wrong with journal bearing turbos assuming they are quality journal bearings.
if I paid for something and didnt get it then the joke's on you son. i was a service adviser for years. I know mistakes happen but when they do you have to fix it.
For sure! You're supposed to get what you pay for.
Glad he is covering your upgrade expense. Would been pretty shity not to have done that or at least to have compensated you some way for not getting what you paid for.
yes. And Joe said that was what he would do...and I appreciate it...man I have had some jobs go sideways when I was advising for Toyota and know what it feels like to have a customer looking at you like you shot their dog. Im trying not to be that guy. I am giving 2J a chance to make it right.
How many miles did you put on that turbo by the way? A bit over a year isn't very long.
I'll assume you had the recommended restrictor since 2j did your install.
Idk if I'll rebuild mine how it is when needed or upgrade instead. Make that decision when the time comes I guess. But assume I will most likely upgrade. Would enjoy the improved response.
well, im not a turbo expert but the expert at Boost Lab said if I dont change my oil every 2k miles with full synthetic, and if the oil does not have a good flow through then in about a yr or 2 ill most likely be seeing him again.
I have the drain hose as straight as possible... and he said the restrictor isnt a good idea because his friend has a turbo b15 and goes without a restrictor and it works better - keeps center section cooler.
and the turbo blanket is a bad idea unless you have to have it. It holds excess heat inside but he said if you can live without it then go that route.
He took my 2J turbo completely apart and showed me everything. we talked for about an hour going over maintenance
I change my oil like every 1,000 miles or less with full synthetic lol because I hardly drive the car. Change the oil just because it's old from time haha
You don't need a restrictor unless oil pressure is causing seals to leak, which was happening and is why people run restrictors. Could be different with a different turbo obviously.
I prime my oil before startup. And I cool the engine down before I shut down if I've been driving even moderately hard. All for the turbo.
I change my oil like every 1,000 miles or less with full synthetic lol because I hardly drive the car. Change the oil just because it's old from time haha
this is about how mine goes, using rottella t6 5w40
You don't need a restrictor unless oil pressure is causing seals to leak, which was happening and is why people run restrictors. Could be different with a different turbo obviously.
above 6000 my oil pressure was above 80psi
I prime my oil before startup. And I cool the engine down before I shut down if I've been driving even moderately hard. All for the turbo.
yogi you drive yours differently than I. Mines a daily and I really dont get on it much. I stay below 4.5rpm mostly. He might have provided different advice or had more to say if I had asked different questions...
for one, design the engine around having a turbo
two, torque specs that only manufacturers, that can use the knowledge of thousands of builds can acquire over the testing cycle and the years
three, design engineers that can work with a basically unlimited budget to get it right.
four, have an engine that was designed for a turbo from the start, instead of bolting one on a motor that was never intended for forced induction.
five, see number two
and six, keep the boost low!
keeping RPM's low(ish) is a good one too. this engine was designed originally as a high torque beast. the valve springs are very light and the piston is wide with the stroke being short - relatively speaking against the popular Honda 4 bangers. R & D is not made for forced induction or high RPM's. Low boost and low rpm's make DD more manageable.
Rick told me when I bought his turbo stuff if I didn't drive the car pretty normal (meaning not to baby it) it would get angry and act up. So I don't baby my car. And so far everything has been fine with the exception of my old ass used manifold cracking.
Not saying you do this, but......don't lug your engine. ESPECIALLY with a turbo. You shouldn't avoid upper rpm. It's worse to use a lot of throttle and put a lot of load on the engine at low rpm. I'm not saying run to redline. I'm saying boost at low rpm is more dangerous than boost at let's say 5,500.
Flooring your car in 6th at 50mph is way more dangerous than downshifting to 3rd.
Rick told me when I bought his turbo stuff if I didn't drive the car pretty normal (meaning not to baby it) it would get angry and act up. So I don't baby my car. And so far everything has been fine with the exception of my old ass used manifold cracking.
Not saying you do this, but......don't lug your engine. ESPECIALLY with a turbo. You shouldn't avoid upper rpm. It's worse to use a lot of throttle and put a lot of load on the engine at low rpm. I'm not saying run to redline. I'm saying boost at low rpm is more dangerous than boost at let's say 5,500.
Flooring your car in 6th at 50mph is way more dangerous than downshifting to 3rd.
well the turbo cannot go without a restrictor. My oil pressure at 3k is 75psi. at idle its 25. The turbo smoked and actually leaked at the hot and cold side. So finally I went dropped down to a vibrant
03 restrictor and it is perfect.
.
well the turbo cannot go without a restrictor. My oil pressure at 3k is 75psi. at idle its 25. The turbo smoked and actually leaked at the hot and cold side. So finally I went dropped down to a vibrant
03 restrictor and it is perfect. View attachment 115497
.
Talked to Joe and he said he would reimburse the cost of the ball bearing upgrade. He personally wasnt aware the turbo on my ride wasnt the race turbo I had paid for. So I edited this post to let everyone know Joe took care of the mistake and I appreciate it.
Just confused. Said you didn't get what you paid for. Said your turbo guy suggested you upgrade to ball bearing. Said Joe offered to pay for the upgrade because you didn't have a ball bearing turbo.
So I'm curious how you ended up with journal bearing again. And why you didn't just rebuild the old turbo with quality parts if you were staying with journal bearing.
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