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Spec V Boosted on bone stock internals

53K views 269 replies 19 participants last post by  CloudSpecV 
#1 ·
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Rim


took it to here
Brickwork Brick Wall Sky Architecture


to have this
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part


Machine Building Auto part Automobile repair shop Toolroom


turned into this
Land vehicle Vehicle Engine Auto part Car


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering wheel Steering part



Stock motor 173,00. JWT BSR.
2JR Turbo kit, Turbonetics wastegate, Tial BOV, 2JR ball bearing turbo with blanket and wrap.
2JR hi power intake manifold
800cc Bosch injectors
2JR 3 port oil catch can
2JR 255 fuel pump
NGK 1 step colder iridiums
Updated cam and crank sensors.
PLX wideband
Catless 2.5 Magnaflow exhaust
2JR Solid Delrin motor mounts
Nismo coil overs
2JR rear sway
2JR 10mm ALK
2JR Cross member bushings.
Mishimito aluminum fan shroud.
Mishimito coldr thermostats
2JR crank pulley, and power steering pully
2JR alternator bracket.
2JR hose kit gun metal
2JR radiator cap.
2JR short shifter w/turcite
ClutchMaster 14lb flywheel
Spec D twin halo headlights
Ruff 935 rims 17x17.5
 
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#213 ·
Auto part Technology


- - - Updated - - -

Land vehicle Vehicle Alloy wheel Car Wheel
 
#214 ·
yea well the dude lied straight to my face and when I picked the vehicle up he was nowhere around. And they didnt lift it or show me a thing. Here's the keys and have fun was their last words as they shoved me out the door.
 
#222 ·
Not noticing any numbers in pictures of the center of my turbo. Probably not going to take it apart if that's what's needed to compare numbers. Was hoping it was easier than that lol
 
#225 ·
Talked to Joe and he said he would reimburse the cost of the ball bearing upgrade. He personally wasnt aware the turbo on my ride wasnt the race turbo I had paid for. So I edited this post to let everyone know Joe took care of the mistake and I appreciate it.
 
#228 · (Edited)
Were you supposed to have the ball bearing upgrade like Shanover has?
 
#229 ·
well Joe explained to me what his shop does to manufacture his turbo wheels in house....the guy at Boost Lab just called it Chinese or E-bay knock off....im not going say Joe's isnt good. It lasted a year and the whole build I got from his shop was 2k less than anywhere else and the tune is perfect....I mean perfection. I know things happen...as long as he is a man of his word everything is fair and cool
 
#230 · (Edited)
The housing is some bootleg housing, but that wouldn't matter. And could possibly be better. That is possible.

The center section supposedly is Precision. Supposedly. I do not know one way or the other.

The bearings and seals and all that are what you don't want to be Chinese.
 
#234 ·
I have journal bearing. Not bothered by that. BB is better and probably definitely worth the extra money. But nothing really wrong with journal bearing turbos assuming they are quality journal bearings.
 
#235 ·
hahahah good one. :tongue:
 
#236 ·
if I paid for something and didnt get it then the joke's on you son. i was a service adviser for years. I know mistakes happen but when they do you have to fix it.
 
#237 ·
For sure! You're supposed to get what you pay for.

Glad he is covering your upgrade expense. Would been pretty shity not to have done that or at least to have compensated you some way for not getting what you paid for.
 
#238 ·
yes. And Joe said that was what he would do...and I appreciate it...man I have had some jobs go sideways when I was advising for Toyota and know what it feels like to have a customer looking at you like you shot their dog. Im trying not to be that guy. I am giving 2J a chance to make it right.
 
#239 ·
How many miles did you put on that turbo by the way? A bit over a year isn't very long.


I'll assume you had the recommended restrictor since 2j did your install.


Idk if I'll rebuild mine how it is when needed or upgrade instead. Make that decision when the time comes I guess. But assume I will most likely upgrade. Would enjoy the improved response.
 
#240 ·
well, im not a turbo expert but the expert at Boost Lab said if I dont change my oil every 2k miles with full synthetic, and if the oil does not have a good flow through then in about a yr or 2 ill most likely be seeing him again.

I have the drain hose as straight as possible... and he said the restrictor isnt a good idea because his friend has a turbo b15 and goes without a restrictor and it works better - keeps center section cooler.
and the turbo blanket is a bad idea unless you have to have it. It holds excess heat inside but he said if you can live without it then go that route.

He took my 2J turbo completely apart and showed me everything. we talked for about an hour going over maintenance
 
#242 · (Edited)
what was the required maintenance he suggested?

i feel the oil when pushed hard doesn't even last that long [2000mi.]
that's why i try to change it before and after track days

or before and after a two day cruise like the dragons tail

however, i feel i must use the heat blanket
as it gets hot enough to melt electrical connections
on the alternator


an oil cooler seems almost mandatory?


i had no faith in turbos
didn't think it would last a week

so i wanted no turbo upgrades
and the least expensive to replace or repair, turbo i could get

so mine is precision nothing
but not an ebay special

the journal bearing has gone thru many events
and i often forget the cool down periods

8,000 miles
now you may think that's nothing

but compare to my previous motors

qr25de 8000miles and only part savable was the crank
vq approx 10,000, lost ring land
stocker, 45,000, needed new head and clutch

yada, yada

not bad looked at that way

will i upgrade the turbo
no way

can't use more power
nor faster spool

it's faster than me now
don't think i can use anymore acceleration

when the time comes,
just throw some seals and rebuild kit in this turbo

i honestly think he assembled mine out of whatever he had around
cause nether one of us thought this would last a month
 
#241 ·
I change my oil like every 1,000 miles or less with full synthetic lol because I hardly drive the car. Change the oil just because it's old from time haha


You don't need a restrictor unless oil pressure is causing seals to leak, which was happening and is why people run restrictors. Could be different with a different turbo obviously.


I prime my oil before startup. And I cool the engine down before I shut down if I've been driving even moderately hard. All for the turbo.
 
#243 ·
I change my oil like every 1,000 miles or less with full synthetic lol because I hardly drive the car. Change the oil just because it's old from time haha

this is about how mine goes, using rottella t6 5w40


You don't need a restrictor unless oil pressure is causing seals to leak, which was happening and is why people run restrictors. Could be different with a different turbo obviously.
above 6000 my oil pressure was above 80psi


I prime my oil before startup. And I cool the engine down before I shut down if I've been driving even moderately hard. All for the turbo.
me too

but i often forget the cool down
and often get the water/oil temp higher than i oughta

maybe its my imagination,
but when i see the rotella lose that transparent color
turns dark enough to see the oil level easily

time to change the oil [ filter too]
 
#246 ·
yogi you drive yours differently than I. Mines a daily and I really dont get on it much. I stay below 4.5rpm mostly. He might have provided different advice or had more to say if I had asked different questions...
 
#248 ·
to me DD is harder on these than my shenanigans

i just don't think these make good DD
at least reliable ones
imo

my neighbor here, has a ford v6 twin turbo truck
i never see him tighten anything

i don't go anywhere without tools

what do they do at the factory that we cannot do?
for one, design the engine around having a turbo
two, torque specs that only manufacturers, that can use the knowledge of thousands of builds can acquire over the testing cycle and the years
three, design engineers that can work with a basically unlimited budget to get it right.
four, have an engine that was designed for a turbo from the start, instead of bolting one on a motor that was never intended for forced induction.
five, see number two
and six, keep the boost low!
 
#249 ·
keeping RPM's low(ish) is a good one too. this engine was designed originally as a high torque beast. the valve springs are very light and the piston is wide with the stroke being short - relatively speaking against the popular Honda 4 bangers. R & D is not made for forced induction or high RPM's. Low boost and low rpm's make DD more manageable.
 
#250 ·
#251 · (Edited)
Rick told me when I bought his turbo stuff if I didn't drive the car pretty normal (meaning not to baby it) it would get angry and act up. So I don't baby my car. And so far everything has been fine with the exception of my old ass used manifold cracking.

Not saying you do this, but......don't lug your engine. ESPECIALLY with a turbo. You shouldn't avoid upper rpm. It's worse to use a lot of throttle and put a lot of load on the engine at low rpm. I'm not saying run to redline. I'm saying boost at low rpm is more dangerous than boost at let's say 5,500.

Flooring your car in 6th at 50mph is way more dangerous than downshifting to 3rd.
 
#252 ·
Rick told me when I bought his turbo stuff if I didn't drive the car pretty normal (meaning not to baby it) it would get angry and act up. So I don't baby my car. And so far everything has been fine with the exception of my old ass used manifold cracking.

Not saying you do this, but......don't lug your engine. ESPECIALLY with a turbo. You shouldn't avoid upper rpm. It's worse to use a lot of throttle and put a lot of load on the engine at low rpm. I'm not saying run to redline. I'm saying boost at low rpm is more dangerous than boost at let's say 5,500.

Flooring your car in 6th at 50mph is way more dangerous than downshifting to 3rd.
absolutely correct
i try never to go below 2500 rpm
and you can feel the car come alive at 3000-3200 rpm

my car runs best at 2600-3200 rpm on the street

and funny as it sounds
as i am a harder user than most
it appears i have had less breakdowns than most of the moderate users

it's made to run
feel where it responds best
and keep it there
imo

here's me on an errand
note rpm usage and turbo sounds

one of my rare closed exhaust days
going into town

very low rpm for me
made the boring vid as a sound clip
normal by yogib777, on Flickr
 
#253 ·
thats the same way i drive. between 2.5-3.5 rpms. passing ill get to 4.5...rarely any higher.
 
#254 ·
well the turbo cannot go without a restrictor. My oil pressure at 3k is 75psi. at idle its 25. The turbo smoked and actually leaked at the hot and cold side. So finally I went dropped down to a vibrant
03 restrictor and it is perfect.
Screw Auto part Pipe
.
 
#255 · (Edited)
well the turbo cannot go without a restrictor. My oil pressure at 3k is 75psi. at idle its 25. The turbo smoked and actually leaked at the hot and cold side. So finally I went dropped down to a vibrant
03 restrictor and it is perfect.
View attachment 115497 .
The new bb turbo? Yeah it definitely needed a restrictor since it's bb. Surprised your turbo guy didn't mention that.
 
#256 ·
Joe actually made Rick put a restrictor on his 5431 journal bearing before he put it on his dyno.
 
#257 ·
its a Garrett journal bearing turbo
 
#258 · (Edited)
Well what was this about then?

You said you were supposed to have gotten ball bearing. Then posted this later.


Talked to Joe and he said he would reimburse the cost of the ball bearing upgrade. He personally wasnt aware the turbo on my ride wasnt the race turbo I had paid for. So I edited this post to let everyone know Joe took care of the mistake and I appreciate it.
 
#259 ·
dude...really?
 
#260 ·
What???????????? :dunno:

Just asking a question.
 
#261 · (Edited)
I'm not saying anything at all.

Just confused. Said you didn't get what you paid for. Said your turbo guy suggested you upgrade to ball bearing. Said Joe offered to pay for the upgrade because you didn't have a ball bearing turbo.


So I'm curious how you ended up with journal bearing again. And why you didn't just rebuild the old turbo with quality parts if you were staying with journal bearing.
 
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