Thread: what i need to stop drifting?

I'm on bc coils installed by joe @ 2jr, i was gonna call him and ask him but lost his number so decided id just post my question but normally my car is 100% fine but how it is front wheels tuck in front and have about 1 finger gap in rear. A local car event meet happend last week and i remeber joe saying going lower in the back wasnt good but wasnt that bad? so i said what the heck ill lower it more in rear to have no wheel gap and lowerd it in the front(on planning on keeping it that low for night of show). anyways car looked sweet with the extra almost half an inch lowerment in rear from where it was already at so i couldnt help but wanna keep it there for a little longer, so after driving it 2 days it was raining and i go on a high wat off ramp pretty fast(nothing i normally wouldnt feel uncomfortable with) and acutally spun out, car never had felt like that in turn, then this morning i was hittin an on ramp at a very respectable speed and before any signs of understeer the rear end comes out 25 degrees and ive hit that on ramp way faster when at height before. so i know this is because im squating in the rear and it only happens when i turn right. i know it has somthing to do with the rear end but what do i need? im sure a panhard is my best option but i cant see myself spending that much on that peice while being a full time student. will a solid offset bushing alow me to go back to that much low without right turn slouching? qt link?

Your rear isn't absorbing body roll anymore. This is why you keep spinning out. You need to take Joe's advice and put it back where it was. "Moar low" is not worth your car imho.

Try lowering the dampening on the rears a few clicks. Also do you have a rear sway bar? If you do and it's adjustable try less stiff.
Those suggestions could make it worse if you happen to be bottoming out from roll and the rear end sliding around. So solid offset bushings are almost a must. Also I'm curious whats the spring rate on the BCs?

Uh.. It was raining. How does the tread on the rear tires look? Biggest mistake most people in FWD cars make is putting the tires with the most tread up front. A FWD with crappy tires up front vs a FWD with crappy tires in the rear, the crappy front tires will take turns faster and wont spin out.

And try lowering the damper in the rear, or upping the front. It's a trial and error thing. I've found with my mods, if the rear is 4 clicks softer than the fronts I minimize my over and under steer.

car is at normal height i only had it super low for a little over a week, im just asking wat i need to stop this, i dont think it has anything to due with bottoming out cause then it would happen regardless of which way i turn. i know it has somthing to due with the rear end slouching, and no strut bar. i was reading about qt links and it explains about lowerd slb rear ends i was just wanting to know if i wanna be able to keep that much low do i need the qt or just solid bushing or both?

and i know it was raining but its happend in dry conditions to and not under slow conditions by any means this is when car is pushed 80% to tires limit. and tires are not really issue it only happend when i lowerd the rear end to "moar low"

I dont recall your spring rates, but the problem with all Spec-Vs is the rear beam is binding and your spring rates are going to INFINITY. When you lower your rear and keep the valving set soft/low the rear compresses and binds. It happens on all our cars. A QT Link wont prevent the binding, it centers the beam and quickens the beam response.

You need to slow down the roll and weight transfer. You do this by adding a larger rear bar (we have a 25mm bar) or by adding stiffer rear springs. Then you need to compensate for the xfer by adding a larger front sway bay (eibach is best). Its all about balance.

The only way to get rid of the binding for good is add a panhard rod. We can run our car as low as possible and we dont dog leg or bind up.

The no-cost option is raise your ride height, and stiffen the rear settings (plus 20 clicks). I can get you new springs for $200 if you want to step up.

Rule of thumb: Understeer = stiffen the rear
Oversteer = stiffen the front


But remember, if you car steps out, its FWD so if you throttle lift it will snap oversteer. You want to plant the throttle on oversteer and turn in. Lifting/braking will make the oversteer worse.

If it understeers, breath of the throttle, maintain the steering angle and either work the brake or lessen the throttle till you get the bite back, then you can quicken the steering and roll back in.

That was some of my problem at Road Atlanta, why I spun twice down the esses... I would LOVE a panhard. All in due time.


Stiffening the rear will prevent the snap oversteer??? You're kidding me... I tried that and it was way too twitchy on track... felt like the rear end wanted to come out on me through turn 12 when flooring it.

Thats bc your toe setting was probably way off. You also need to balance that with a stiffer front.

Yeah I cranked up the front to around 20ish, for the track, kept the rears at 10 at first, bumped them rears up to 15 and I spun. Was quite a thrill!

Also, just replaced my CV axles... the car now vibrates when I floor it at low speeds, mainly at low speeds. Wondering what's up. Sorry for the thread jack.

i just re did dampinging since i was 24 front 14 rear(fail) , but once ur new intake comes out i think i do wanna go up in spring rates or buy nismo bar just waiting for production so i can make a run down to atl