Spec V Boosted on bone stock internals
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  1. #1
    Newbie Thomas
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    Default Spec V Boosted on bone stock internals

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    took it to here
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    to have this
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    turned into this
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    Stock motor 173,00. JWT BSR.
    2JR Turbo kit, Turbonetics wastegate, Tial BOV, 2JR ball bearing turbo with blanket and wrap.
    2JR hi power intake manifold
    800cc Bosch injectors
    2JR 3 port oil catch can
    2JR 255 fuel pump
    NGK 1 step colder iridiums
    Updated cam and crank sensors.
    PLX wideband
    Catless 2.5 Magnaflow exhaust
    2JR Solid Delrin motor mounts
    Nismo coil overs
    2JR rear sway
    2JR 10mm ALK
    2JR Cross member bushings.
    Mishimito aluminum fan shroud.
    Mishimito coldr thermostats
    2JR crank pulley, and power steering pully
    2JR alternator bracket.
    2JR hose kit gun metal
    2JR radiator cap.
    2JR short shifter w/turcite
    ClutchMaster 14lb flywheel
    Spec D twin halo headlights
    Ruff 935 rims 17x17.5

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  3. #2
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    Default Spec V Boosted on bone stock internals

    Congrats,
    2JR did a great job, looks like your going to have a very fun DD.
    Really goes to show that even a high mileage QR can been safely boosted. I'm planning on doing something very similar to this, my engine has 80K miles and I've been buying all the parts.

    Where's the dyno sheet?
    Also if you can post some videos,
    I'd love to see how this drives!
    Last edited by 2k2SpecV; 09-30-2015 at 08:29 AM.

  4. #3
    Senior Member Steve
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    Seen this car when I dropped off mine, its in really great shape. Joe told me that he could turbo my original motor (123K) but I didnt feel comfortable with it. Seen this dyno sheet as well, Joe tuned it to ~250 hp across almost all of the RPM range!

    work in progress...
    [03-03-2016 05:36 PM] DaveSpecB15 : My Sentra has a QR25taf swap. It's the turbo as fuck engine. I coulda got a DE for cheap though. But my muffler bearings couldn't handle the torque. You gotta tune that shit on hopes and dreams.

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  6. #4
    Senior Member Barry
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanover View Post
    Seen this car when I dropped off mine, its in really great shape. Joe told me that he could turbo my original motor (123K) but I didnt feel comfortable with it. Seen this dyno sheet as well, Joe tuned it to ~250 hp across almost all of the RPM range!
    this is the kind of tune i was speaking of

    makes the car feel strong in any gear

  7. #5
    Senior Member Barry
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    congrats
    have a blast with it

    tuned like that, should last a long time
    please let us know how you like it

    the 250 hp turbo installs have attracted a lot of attention on this site

  8. #6
    Senior Member Steve
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    we are Sentra owners, its the cheapest way to go... lol

    work in progress...
    [03-03-2016 05:36 PM] DaveSpecB15 : My Sentra has a QR25taf swap. It's the turbo as fuck engine. I coulda got a DE for cheap though. But my muffler bearings couldn't handle the torque. You gotta tune that shit on hopes and dreams.

  9. #7
    Newbie Thomas
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    It is absolutely fantastic. I love stomping on the accelerator any time in any gear and taking off like a bat outta hell.

  10. #8
    Senior Member Norberto
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    SO....it's tuned to 250 whp? At what PSI? Just wanted to know, since mine is on stock internals ws well, and Joe was telling that I have to only worry about the WTQ on the stock block, not the PSI level (mine is as 11 psi for 280 whp/302wtq)
    2006 Sentra NISMO SE-R ,QR25DE-T 6M/T; 1st CUMMINS Turbo'd Holset HY35 .65 turbo, Nismo Suspension, 2.25" Stromung Exh, 2JR 2.5" catted midpipe
    298bhp/310btq A/T
    280whp/302wtq 6M/T
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2422406


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  11. #9
    Newbie Thomas
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    7 psi

  12. #10
    Senior Member Mod in this bish
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nperez1986 View Post
    SO....it's tuned to 250 whp? At what PSI? Just wanted to know, since mine is on stock internals ws well, and Joe was telling that I have to only worry about the WTQ on the stock block, not the PSI level (mine is as 11 psi for 280 whp/302wtq)
    Ask @MisterNuts about that. He pushed 14psi up top with his SC days on a stock block. It's instant TQ that bends things. Less stress = longevity.

  13. #11
    Newbie Thomas
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    at this power level and boost - it is safe, reliable, and 0 lag. Exactly what i was going after.
    Joe said the wheel torque is a limiting factor but also the stress of turbo lag. The sudden surge of power stresses the internals a lot.

  14. #12
    Senior Member Norberto
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeteranofPsychicWar View Post
    at this power level and boost - it is safe, reliable, and 0 lag. Exactly what i was going after.
    Joe said the wheel torque is a limiting factor but also the stress of turbo lag. The sudden surge of power stresses the internals a lot.
    That is very true. After he tuned it, it felt more linear. How is your oil in your dipstick?
    2006 Sentra NISMO SE-R ,QR25DE-T 6M/T; 1st CUMMINS Turbo'd Holset HY35 .65 turbo, Nismo Suspension, 2.25" Stromung Exh, 2JR 2.5" catted midpipe
    298bhp/310btq A/T
    280whp/302wtq 6M/T
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2422406


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  15. #13
    Senior Member Parker
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    Nice work man. It's good to see Joe putting in good work too.
    There's no class in America. Look around this bitch. You see anyone with class?

  16. #14
    Newbie Thomas
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    oil in dip stick is full...should I be looking for something there?

  17. #15
    Senior Member Norberto
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    Quote Originally Posted by VeteranofPsychicWar View Post
    oil in dip stick is full...should I be looking for something there?
    If you have the OE one, they are plastic...they WILL break off over time, so just keep an eye there. Way to fix it...is essentially find a billet handle to replace it with...something I've been trying to do....
    2006 Sentra NISMO SE-R ,QR25DE-T 6M/T; 1st CUMMINS Turbo'd Holset HY35 .65 turbo, Nismo Suspension, 2.25" Stromung Exh, 2JR 2.5" catted midpipe
    298bhp/310btq A/T
    280whp/302wtq 6M/T
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2422406


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  18. #16
    Newbie Thomas
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    its still in perfect shape for now however many folks have told me the same thing. If you find something lemme know and i'll do the same. with the turbo right next to it I dont think it will last that much longer....


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-20-850/overview/

  19. #17
    Newbie Thomas
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    was just talking to my master tech here at Toyota (he used to work at Nissan) and he said those dip stick handles always break. they are a real pain to get the metal stick out too. He said we can cut the plastic handle off and crimp a metal extension handle onto the end...so its all metal and extends above the oil feed line to get at it easier....this sounds like a good part Joe might want to manufacture.

  20. #18
    Newbie Thomas
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    Ok here is an update. Car is freaking fantastic as a daily driver. Nice manners, power in every gear at any rpm...not racing crazy power, but nice streetable pass the car in front of me in 3 seconds power. It is great.

    However after 2 days I noticed a thin sheen of oil on the valve cover around the oil fill neck. A little research revealed the ebay oil cap as the culprit. No matter how tight I screwed it on - even with a wrench a little oil squeezed out. So....I bought some permatex black gasket maker to create a larger gasket on the oil cap. Let it sit over night and put some paper on top of the goop to prevent it from sticking to the cover. That solved the oil leak. The oil dip stick is holding up perfectly so far. Gas mileage went way up to 34 mpg.

    But mucking around in the engine bay I noticed something else. The oil return line wrapped in red heat tape is laying against the exhaust down pipe. They are touching.

    The red tape has turned color - somewhat white - where the pipe and the hose touch. Is this a concern / Should I try to route the hose so there is some room between the two? Just wondering if anyone else has seen this issue on these builds.

    Any input would be appreciated.

  21. #19
    Newbie Thomas
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  22. #20
    Senior Member Barry
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    please separate
    or wrap hose in heat [lava] wrap


    doesn't have to be a great distance just not touching

    things seem to move around
    even with solid mounts the engine moves a bit
    on hard acceleration

    i check the turbo bolts and the proximity of hoses weekly
    and daily check fluid levels

    imo

 

 
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