Usual hard start issues back
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  1. #1
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    Default Usual hard start issues back

    I replaced the entire fuel pump assembly with one from a1 auto part number 1AFPU00373. After installing, it seemed like it fixed the hard starting/extended crank issues for about a week. Now it's back to its old ways and I'm losing my mind. I guess next step is changing the crank/cam sensors? It's a 2006 1.8 with 75k miles. No check engine lights and no active codes being thrown. HELP.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Mod in this bish
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    Do you let the fuel pump prime before starting or do you jump in, turn the key all the way to start? Try leaving the key in the "on" position (1 position before start) for a few seconds then start it.

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    Definitely been doing that...which I've incorporated into my everyday driving. I turn to the "on" position and leave it until the 5th chime. Turn to off and do the same again except crank after the 4th or 5th chime. When it actually runs on its own, it takes about 3-4 seconds of actual starting. I can hear the pump prime every time (well, at least start humming) and it runs great after started. Im averaging 30.4 MPG. New fuel pump assembly, plugs and hi test gas. Have recently seafoam sprayed the intake (kit they sell).

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  6. #4
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    I'm ordering the crank and camshaft sensors to see what that will do. Isn't there some way to tell by the tach while starting if the sensor is bad? Like if the RPM doesn't Increase?

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  7. #5
    Senior Member Alex
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryjay7887 View Post
    I'm ordering the crank and camshaft sensors to see what that will do. Isn't there some way to tell by the tach while starting if the sensor is bad? Like if the RPM doesn't Increase?

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    When the camshaft sensor went bad on me this weekend the car wouldn't start and there was a code for it. When my crankshaft sensor went bad a few some time ago the car was misfiring as I was driving and a code came up for the sensor.

    04 Molten SpecV

    Intake: 2J CAI, 2J full plenum kit
    Cooling: Mishimoto rad, shroud with fans, thermostats, & hoses, Nismo rad cap
    Engine: 2J crank and ps pulleys, crossmember bushings, solid motor mounts
    Exhaust: Gold Medusa header, 2J 3" wrapped catless midpipe, 2J 2.5" Side Exit v2
    Suspension: 10k Inverted BCs, 2J rear sway bar, Eibach front sway bar, 2J LCAs with race ball joints and BSK, 2J 15mm ALK
    Electrical: 2J 90 Amp race alternator, yellow 2J fogs, 2J ground kit
    Transmission: 2J short throw with turcite bushings, 2J weighted shift knob
    Aero: CF Evo hood, Nismo spoiler, front WRX lip
    Brakes: 13" Brembo 2 piece front slotted, slotted and cross drilled rear, Goodrich SS brake lines
    Wheels & Tire: 2J burned Ti lugs, Rays versus Tourismo with 235 40/18 Kuhmo XS (summer), Bronze Nismo with 215 45/17 Continental DWS (winter), Bronze Rays Daytona 707 w/ slicks

  8. #6
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    Also with the 1.8, isn't there a fuel check valve near the fuel rail on top of the engine? Any better luck with replacing that too?

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    Senior Member Barry
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    calling all 1.8 experts
    time to chime

    odd the canister replacement helped at 1st
    what changed?
    sock fell off the pump?

  10. #8
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    Not really sure what changed. I guess I could pull the canister and inspect. I found it very weird that it fixed the problem for a week.
    Maybe it's a little warmer than it was a week ago but it still has problems starting first thing in the morning when it's cold too.
    I'm going to see if there are any stored codes. No check engine light though. Hopefully someone with a better reader than my basic ODB2 can see more than me.

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  11. #9
    Senior Member Jon
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    What plugs are you using and how old are they? How old is battery?
    A poor spark can cause hard starting. A old battery can lack the amperage to crank AND supply proper voltage at the same time. Do a battery load test and replace plugs with quality plugs.

  12. #10
    Senior Member Barry
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    What plugs are you using and how old are they? How old is battery?
    A poor spark can cause hard starting. A old battery can lack the amperage to crank AND supply proper voltage at the same time. Do a battery load test and replace plugs with quality plugs.
    i run a minimum size battery
    [actually designed for an mx5 ,] 370cca
    for reduced weight up front and track use

    if i have so much as a bad ground
    car will not start

    if i have to crank it 15-20sec
    [time required for the red oil lamp light to go out]
    my battery is pretty much done

    car is kept on a trickle charger and i have to run reduced plug gap

    so yeah, what Jon said is critical
    Last edited by yogi b; 05-17-2017 at 10:03 AM.

  13. #11
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    The plugs are about 3 weeks old. I don't remember the model number but they are Bosch. Somewhere in the mid-level price at AutoZone. I replaced the plugs before I put in the new fuel pump and it didn't make a difference on starting. The new fuel pump assembly has made the most impact so far until lately.
    The battery is about a month old.

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  14. #12
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    I'm honestly thinking now that it must be fuel pressure related. What's throwing me off is that the same issues are back after a week. Once that new fuel pump went it, the car never started so good...and it did multiple times a day wether it's hot, cold, sat all night or recently shut off.

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  15. #13
    Senior Member Jon
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    See if you can get somebody else to start it so you can observe the exhaust look for excessive smoke, fuel smell, oil smell or moisture/anti freeze. If you take out a few plugs after a no start and see if you observe anything on plug or inside cylinders. I hope it's not a head gasket.

  16. #14
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    Would a pressure test/leakdown test tell me anything about that?

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    I've noticed no loss in coolant or oil. Also no notable smoke when starting. When I replaced the old spark plugs, they were fairly clean (minimal carbon) and dry.

    Thank you to everyone who has chimed in on my issue. The brainstorming is really helping out with diagnosing this. Hopefully I can get this taken care of. I might return the fuel pump and try out a different one...maybe the new one has a faulty check valve? Really reaching there.

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  18. #16
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    Update
    Called 1A auto and they shipped out a new pump for me under warranty...apparently the one I bought has a lifetime warranty on it. When it gets here next week and I install it, hopefully it will solve my issue.
    I should be recieveing the crank and cam sensors today. If they get here, I'll throw those in too. I'll basically have a brand new engine after all of this.

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  19. #17
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    Replaced the cam sensor yesterday...since it was the easiest to get to. There is no difference in starting.

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  20. #18
    Senior Member Jon
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    Where are you located? Perhaps a local member can take a look.

  21. #19
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    I'm outside of tampa.
    To add to everything else, I finally threw a code P0171 bank 1 too lean. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with hard starting but I'm thinking MAF sensor. In the process of all these (tune up items) I sprayed MAF cleaner on the sensor to clean it off. A few days after that is when I got that code. I'm also getting reduced MPG's.

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  22. #20
    Senior Member Jon
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    Can you test the primary O2 sensor with that code reader? They should be replaced at 60k miles or close to that. Also check really good for any vacuum line or intake leaks. The cleaner shouldnt hurt it.

 

 
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