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Installing Solid Motor Mounts

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59K views 190 replies 39 participants last post by  Sus Spec 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
They can be purchased at this site http://www.neverenoughauto.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=15813

or

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/product/332392/nismo-poly-engine-mount-insert-qr25de-999961112g

Remove 3 or 4 spider clips from this plastic piece


Remove 14mm bolt holding the front mount


Remove 14mm bolt holding the rear mount you may need a small extension


At the Front Remove 2 17mm bolts here


Remove 2 12mm bolts thats holding the exhaust hanger


At the Rear remove 2 17mm bolts here



You can now drop the whole crossmemeber out



When Reinstalling Make sure you Grease up the Mounts so they can slip right in place.
It was a pita to get it out on my own so i stopped in the middle of the whole process and took the mount and bracket to a shop and they pressed it out for me for 15 bucks. Took 10mins

FRONT


REAR



Solid Motor Mount VS MMI's (motor mount inserts)



Soild Motor Mount VS Stock mount










Quoted from Travis " to get the old mounts out, you can press them out, or, do what I do, and use a sawzall to cut through the metal band. Once you bust through.. you release the tension by creating a small gap from the saw blade, and the mount slides right out."

And this is how it will look like when u cut it.



 
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#6 ·
I know this is a very old thread but wanted to ask about the second set of instructions. It says you can cut the mount and the old mount will easily slide out. So you do what now, weld it back? Won't that create a weak point?

Also, where is a good place to go that can press motor mounts? A tranny shop?
 
#19 ·
i have an 8 car garage with a lift.. you could, but itd be a really tight fit, and it would be hard to put enough pressure onto the crossmemer to get it in with it at your chest but nothing a lot of heavy grease cant fix!
 
#27 ·
Just did these last night with the washer mod, the vibrations will be something to get used to but god damn do they work!

No wheelhop :D Well worth the money.
 
#28 ·
you silly bastards, that ain't a solid motor mount.

this is a solid motor mount:

 
#30 ·
it's far too solid. i don't like how loud it it makes the car. but holycrap it makes you connected to the engine. i'm getting old and want my comfy ride back, so i've started to take these things off my car.
 
#36 ·
nope, never.

only time i've ever gotten shit from cops is when i had a mossy catback with a header, and that was just a fine.

i used to have a cutout installed as well that i would flip open from time to time.

it just ends up being annoying.

it's quite a bit more tame now, there's the same 3" catback, no cutout, but stock muffler at the end and full vband joints in between.
 
#39 ·
I'm also getting tired of my FI-R solid mounts... I was thinking that the poly Prothane mounts might absorb some more vibes and cut back on the resonance, so I'll be swapping them out sometime before summer arrives.
 
#40 ·
i do think the FI-R mounts are harder, but i don't hear a different story from the prothane guys

it would be excellent if one was more track oriented and the other softer for the street
it would give us a real choice

please let us know


i have ridden in cars with both types of mounts , but not the same motor.
my particular vq [mucho balancing lol] is very smooth compared to the turbo stock fours with out the balance shafts

so mine always feels smoother
as a result, i can't tell


for general info
if you rebuild, balance the rotating assembly well, the difference at cruising speed is delightful
imo
 
#44 ·
i just put these prothane mounts in over the weekend. did it in a small 1 car garage. just jacked it up and put stands under the car. i took the motor mount through bolts out first then removed the crossmember. to get the oem mounts out i soaked them with penetrant(pb blaster, ect will work) then hammered a screw driver between the mount and the bracket like so. after you work it all the way through just smack it with a hammer and it will slide out.



then i sprayed the mounts and the brackets down with mpl(lubricant) and used a vice and a couple of well placed smacks with a hammer to press the mounts in. i used WHA for the LTB which are thicker than the regular ones rob sells. i bolted the cross member back in first so it wouldnt be falling out and did the front mount first. my holes were off by about a 1/4 inch. i used a pin punch to align the holes best i could then smacked the bolt through with a ball pein hammer. same for rear.

took roughly 2 hours on my back and a little sweat.
 
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