Do you mean the EVAP system?
So I need to remove the carbon canister from the back of the car. Has anyone done this yet. If so what did you do with the three electrical connections so I dont throw an engine code. I can figure the lines out and just need a little help with the connectors. Thanks
Do you mean the EVAP system?
The whole carbon canister that sits on the frame rail behind the rear driver tire
Why do you even want to remove this? Are you going to install a fuel cell?
If you have not seen my car yet-it is turning to a pure race car that is street legal. I have removed everything that does not need to be there and that carbon canister is one thing that does not need to be there. I just need a way to wire the sensors so they think it is fine. I do not want to put a fuel cell in because the stock tank actually sits in a good location for center of gravity. A fuel cell would be put a lot higher. I already have dual 255lph pumps and foam in my tank. You can make any tank work just as well. So the canister is just a block of crap that I dont want on there. Thanks!
Yeah I want to see this monster too. Have you posted pics anywhere?
the "carbon canister" which is actually filled with charcoal is a very complicated part of the EVAP system, your fuel tank Vent hose goes to the vent control valve, that is attached to the "canister" and is electrically controlled, then there's another vacuum hose from the vent control valve that goes to the vacuum pressure solenoid under the car, from the vacuum pressure solenoid you have your vacuum cut valve that splits the hose and runs it towards the engine bay to recirculate, once under the engine bay you have that vent into the vacuum cut purge valve, usually attached to the intake manifold and vents those gas fumes into the engine to burn them off, and not only that but this system ties into even you filling your gas tank
Usually all the emissions sensors, and that "carbon canister" work off of vacuum and pressure, and some off of ground but those are the under hood, vacuum solenoids, now remember in the first post how I explaine that the vent hose from your fuel tank goes to the VENT CONTROL VALVE, they are there to vent out gas fumes from your fuel tank, so that you can fill your gas tank it's a pressure relief, you take that out and what's gonna happen is when you go to fill up gas the pump is gonna shut off automatically because of too much pressure or if you have an older style gas pump it'll overflow out of the gas tank, it's there for a reason and it NEEDS to be there for it to be street legal, THE ONLY WAY you're getting rid of it is with a fuel cell. and even then I don't thing the car will run properly because all those sensors tie back into the ECM, and unless you got a Stand-Alone engine management I wouldn't mess with it, anyways just my .02 Good Luck........
I have a photo album labled my spec. you should check it out. I understand how the whole thing works, as a gas tank just needs a vent line when you dont have a dead head system. I run a return line. Currently I already disabled the evap in the engine bay but I just wasnt sure how to trick those rear sensors. Their is no reason why we cant use our tank just as a fuel cell. They use a vent on the top and thats all we need too. And I guess if taking those sensors off and I get a check engine light-oh well. From what a guy at nissan told me is that when the engine light is on-it puts it in safe mode and retards timming by two degrees, so thats actually better for me. Just my thoughts. It matters to me to remove this. To me it is un needed and we can figure it out. I will start by removing one sensor at a time and read it by a electrical meter to try to figure what signals it sends, and by that I can figure it out. I was hoping someone already did this. My ways are not the same as everyone, and I love to figure new ways to do things. Thats why my car runs on e85 and I have a rear mount turbo. Thanks
<<<--- this guy from Nissan knows that those sensors don't adjust timing, they just reburn the hydro carbons in the fuel vapor, they don't mess around with timing it's not even on the list of things to check as far as Nissans "MIL" Evap diagnosis procedures, if your car runs like shit it's because it's not burning properly, anyways if you're still hell bent on doing it, those rear sensors run off of internal switches inside the sensors themselves which are controlled by the mass airflow and o2 sensor signals that go into the ECM and tell the ECM how the car is running what the vacuum is etc... then they get relayed back to those sensors and tell those sensors internally when to open and close..... anyways good luck and have fun
Well looking at your pics all I gotta say is yank that canister, doesn't look too street legal as it sits so F... a check engine light good work though
I know those sensors dont adjust timming, but when they make the mil go on, that triggers the ecu to go to safe mode which pulls some timming. But thanks for the input on the switches.
yeah street legal. I meant I still have everything I think that makes it legal. Blinkers, wipers, and two mirrors, lights, and plates.
Yeah this car is alttle to fun at times. I would have sent you a thanks but dont know where it is
I guess it depends on your state laws aswell, oh BTW Evap related "MIL" won't retard timing, Mass Air Flow, Oxygen Sensors, Knock Sensors, or in other words sensors directly related to the engine will put the car in a fail safe mode, which not just retard your timing but also limit your revving in each gear I think it was a max of 2k rpm that it would let you rev to in each gear as a safety, but as I said your EVAP related "MIL" won't affect timing or safe mode on the car