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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, some of you might remember me having a few questions a couple months back when my car was burning a quart of oil every 20 miles. Crazyy huh?? Well I ended up rebuilding the entire engine, which was a first for me. I was stumped to what caused my engine to burn oil so excessively practically over night for the longest time. Then when i was getting ready to put the engine back in i unbolted my stock header/precat from exhaust pipe and found the catalyst had broken apart and clogged my exhaust. Soo that is that.

However after about 800-1000 miles on the newly rebuilt engine i got the code p0011. At first I thought it was the crank pos sen, but I changed it out with a newer metal one and the code came back a few miles later. I have read a few other threads that mentioned it could be a dirty IVT solenoid. So i pulled it out the other day and sprayed it down with throttle body cleaner until it stopped dripping oil and reinstalled it. That also did not solve my problem.

Tomorrow sometime I will check all the connections and make sure the wires are intact.

Other than that all i can think of is that maybe i didn't replace the O-ring that goes between the head and upper crankcase.


I double triple and quadruple checked the timing and rotated the engine several times before installing so i know its not a timing problem. It idled fine up until the other day and i got a p0301 code which im i am going to just swap the ignition coils around to see if hops to another cylinder.

Also another thing when i say idled fine i mean it was steady and at around 550-600rpm. I did idle relearn after the rebuild and I can't help to notice that my idle is low. I was thinking it might be due to a 2j 14lb flywheel i installed.


BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY DOES ANYONE KNOW THE PART NUMBER FOR THE O-RING? The one for the IVT solenoid that goes between the head and upper crankcase? I want to order it before i take the upper crankcase off just in case i need it.


Thanks in advance for any and all help :icon16:
 

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You could be having some oil issues. Possibly clog have you done a oil change. Drain oil and filter into a clean pan and examine very closely for any contamination especially silicon gasket sealer. It can cause havoc if used too liberally on oil pan and cover seàls. After a while the oil softens it up and it can clog a engine. Executive Nissan should be able to help you with that number. Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah thanks Jon I ended up finding the part number. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago, but it all seemed normal I didn't see any rtv silicon or other debris in the old oil. I will do an oil change this week sometime and see if i can find anything.
 

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Did you replace the cam sensor? Sounds WAY more likely it was cam than crank sensor.

If you didn't replace the cam sensor.......swap in the old crank sensor that apparently was good in place of your cam sensor OR just swap your cam and crank sensor and see if the code or symptoms change.


Also....I have seen the solenoid for the cvvt actuator fail. Could go grab one off another QR at the junkyard and try that. Trying sensor first though.

Try both these before you go tearing your motor back apart

It is Least likely the actuator. And if it is the actuator you probably can't fix it and they aren't cheap and you'll have to replace it. Again....this is least likely...by a lot...but possible because you had such excessive constant oil consumption before.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@DaveSpecB15 yeah the excessive oil consumption prior to the rebuild is why i have been leaning towards the solenoid. I ended up changing both cam and crank sensors since i got two in the pack. But i can try using the old crank sensor for the cam and see if maybe i happened to get a bad part.
 

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Oh you replaced both...you only mentioned crank. Worth a shot to double check the cam sensor and it's wiring.

And then try a different solenoid and check it's wiring. The solenoid controls the oil flow to the actuator. I have seen them go bad. So I'd try that before messing with the actuator itself.
 

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Here's how the variable timing system works. Basically unless your timing is off a tooth which it doesn't seem to be, then something is wrong with one of these components. Sensor, solenoid, or actuator........ Or the electrical connection to the solenoid or sensor.

Very good video I watched a long time ago
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input, I'll take the timing chain into consideration but my car only has 115k miles and the engine was replaced by Nissan at 80k. Also during inspection of the chain during the rebuild it didn't have any abnormal wear I've been busy so it's been hard to get time to do repairs. Let me recap everything that I've done so far:

Rebuilt motor 3,000 miles ago
Did a free bsr I found on the forums here (the one where you remove the chain and everything inside the balance shaft housing)
Replaced both crank and cam sensor
Checked wiring and it seems intact on crank, cam and vvt solenoid
Pulled the upper crankcase to make sure I had installed the oil seal to vvt solenoid (it was there but I picked a new one up anyway so replaced it)
Replaced vvt solenoid

Also I've had a new symptom just after I posted on here last. My oil light would flicker from time to time. Some days it wouldn't happen at all. Usually it'll flash when I'm at idle and sometimes it'll stay solid until I start driving and it'll go away. It has been doing that for about 3-4 weeks now, but just today when I started my car(it was still partially warmed up, was sitting for a hour after driving around town) the light was on. So I tried to restart the car a few times to see if it would go away and it didn't, it finally went away after about 2 miles of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also there doesn't seem to be any weird noises coming from engine. It runs real well. This thing has me stumped. I could only assume its the oil pump. When I get the chance I will test for oil pressure.
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track with oil pump. Check the oil pressure ASAP that's really important to prevent very expensive damage and wear.
 

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I failed to mention that one of the symptoms of my stretched chain was oil light coming on when idle was dropping. I highly doubt it is an oil pump though. I heard a dealership tech state that he had never seen an oil pump failure on a QR. I also haven't heard of one myself. But if you do pursue it you'll be able to change the chain since you're in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey guys I checked my oil pressure this past week and at idle it was about 14psi , 2k RPM about 43psi and at 6k RPM somewhere around 62psi (might have rev-ed to like 6200rpm on accident I didn't want to hold the rpm that high so i just stomped the pedal till it hit 6k then let go real quick.)

Another thing I just noticed im burning a little oil more so when I rev high. I didn't notice it much because ive been changing my oil every thousand or so miles because it was getting dirty fast. I am not sure if that is a PCV problem. Although I had just replaced the pcv valve about 6k miles ago before i did my rebuild. There isnt any oil on my spark plugs but I can see some carbon on the piston.

Sooo I did a compression test and all the cylinders passed with about 185 PSI and held it for about 15 minutes.

I am not sure if the shop that I took my head to did something wrong when they were doing the valve job.

So my next step with the p0011 code would be what actuator and chain/tensioner/guides?
 

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Held it for 15 mins? The gage is what holds pressure in less you were able to stop the piston perfectly at tdc each time for each cyl the compression tester takes the max reading.
 

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I am wondering if some of the gasket sealer is clogging up the timing solenoid. It you still have the oil filter around or put a new one in and tear apart the old one and looking for any debris. The pressure test might not show if the oil is getting plugged up at one of the ports. That gasket sealer can wreck havoc if it breaks free. Just a thought...
 
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