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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
103,000 miles on my Nissan 2000 GXE automatic. First sign of problems occurred when I tried to drive it off the parking lot at work. It died and was hard to restart. I limped it to the edge of the street and it died again. It took 40 minutes to restart it. I pushed the pedal to get the engine RPM'S up, then threw it into gear. After a minute, it straightened up and drove home fine. I thought it might be water in the gas, once you get it cleared out you can be fine.
Next occurrence was more than 6 months later while driving home in a pouring rain storm. I ran through some standing water. A half mile later the car died and I managed to coast into a park entrance. I checked the oil level, which was low (I added oil). When I finally got car to restart it rattled (the catalytic heat shield?), and idled slower and rough, but I made it home.
I can start it up and run it for 10 miles without issues, then at 55 mph on the Freeway it will surge 500 rpm on the tachometer and then recover. When you shut it off and then restart it a short while later it will drive a very short distance and die out. When it dies it is very hard to restart. It doesn't help to pump the pedal, in fact it seems to prevent it from starting. Eventually it will restart, drive a little ways and die. Hard to start again, drive a little bit and die again...
I've installed new NKG platinum plugs, and new Beck arnley coil packs, as well as a new air filter.
At Autozone the codes that they read were for the Fuel cap and Evap emissions codes and for vacuum leak. 440 and 450.
I installed a new gates fuel tank cap. Nothing has improved.
I have bought a new fuel pump module but haven't installed it yet.
What are your experiences? What is the problem?
 

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There is a hard plastic elbow on the evap system on the driver right side, if it is that then you will need to clean it out, there is a how-to on here though I have never dealt with that issue.
 

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How's the coolant level? Any white smoke billowing out the tail pipe when it dies? And coolant smell on the spark plugs? If the water level is low, it could be a small headgasket leak or Crack that only shows when the engine is warmed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How's the coolant level? Any white smoke billowing out the tail pipe when it dies? And coolant smell on the spark plugs? If the water level is low, it could be a small headgasket leak or Crack that only shows when the engine is warmed up.
Hi, coolant level is completely full with no leaks. When I changed out the old plugs then were burnt down a bit, but were dry. Like I said in the post, when it runs it runs great for awhile with no problems. When the problems begin the car becomes undrivable. When it finally clears up then you can usually drive it home.
The only other thing that I had done was to have a mechanic change the valve cover gasket a few months ago. The screws had loosened up a bit and it was leaking oil.
The administrator mentioned a hard plastic elbow on the driver's side that can plug up, but I'm not sure if it is under the hood or not. Do EVAP problems make a car nearly impossible to drive? The car is like Jeckl and Hyde, it has two different personalities.
Thanks, Dennis- I
 

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Hi, coolant level is completely full with no leaks. When I changed out the old plugs then were burnt down a bit, but were dry. Like I said in the post, when it runs it runs great for awhile with no problems. When the problems begin the car becomes undrivable. When it finally clears up then you can usually drive it home.
The only other thing that I had done was to have a mechanic change the valve cover gasket a few months ago. The screws had loosened up a bit and it was leaking oil.
The administrator mentioned a hard plastic elbow on the driver's side that can plug up, but I'm not sure if it is under the hood or not. Do EVAP problems make a car nearly impossible to drive? The car is like Jeckl and Hyde, it has two different personalities.
Thanks, Dennis- I
The EVAP hard plastic elbow that I think CrickiKraze is mentioning is behind the driver side rear tire. To get to it you need to take off driver side rear wheel, take off plastic cover, and unbolt the EVAP canister. You will need to soak/ blast it with WD-40 in order to get the spring to freely move around again. It is actually quite easy.. I will edit this post and link the how to when I find it.

EDIT: Here is the link --> How To Evap Canister fix

However, EVAP shouldn't cause driveability issues only slightly reduced fuel economy and a faint gas smell.

Also if it is a small vacuum leak, it shouldn't cause driveability issues in your car as severe as what you are experiencing.

In my case, a vacuum leak triggered a lean condition for me, reduced power and reduced fuel economy for me which motivated me enough to get it fixed.

One thing I can think of that happened with my car when it had hard starting problems 2 years ago was a corroded battery connector..

It seems silly but my story was that I had a period of time when I had to jump start my car in order to get it to run once in a while. I bought a portable Jump starter for this purpose.. When I had time, I went through checking my starter relay, fuel pump, fuel line, grounds, ECU fuse (because it blew up before) etc.. I couldn't figure it out. I surrendered and accepted the fact that I need to jump start the car once in a while.. it went on like this for almost a year..

Then one day I went to the auto parts store and saw this battery connector with a twisting valve to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery when you need to store the car for long periods of time without draining the battery much. I used to store my car every year for 6 months which is why I thought it would be a convenient mod. I bought it and when I was installing it, I pulled the old negative battery clamp connector off and it snapped right on the terminal! I had a good look at it and it was soo rusted it looked like there was barely any connection! Anyway I replaced it with that twisting valve negative terminal connector thing and my car starts every time! The irony for me was soon after installing it I no longer had to store my car for 6 months in a year...

I would check my battery connectors positive and negative to see if they are corroded.
 
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103,000 miles on my Nissan 2000 GXE automatic. First sign of problems occurred when I tried to drive it off the parking lot at work. It died and was hard to restart. I limped it to the edge of the street and it died again. It took 40 minutes to restart it. I pushed the pedal to get the engine RPM'S up, then threw it into gear. After a minute, it straightened up and drove home fine. I thought it might be water in the gas, once you get it cleared out you can be fine.
Next occurrence was more than 6 months later while driving home in a pouring rain storm. I ran through some standing water. A half mile later the car died and I managed to coast into a park entrance. I checked the oil level, which was low (I added oil). When I finally got car to restart it rattled (the catalytic heat shield?), and idled slower and rough, but I made it home.
I can start it up and run it for 10 miles without issues, then at 55 mph on the Freeway it will surge 500 rpm on the tachometer and then recover. When you shut it off and then restart it a short while later it will drive a very short distance and die out. When it dies it is very hard to restart. It doesn't help to pump the pedal, in fact it seems to prevent it from starting. Eventually it will restart, drive a little ways and die. Hard to start again, drive a little bit and die again...
I've installed new NKG platinum plugs, and new Beck arnley coil packs, as well as a new air filter.
At Autozone the codes that they read were for the Fuel cap and Evap emissions codes and for vacuum leak. 440 and 450.
I installed a new gates fuel tank cap. Nothing has improved.
I have bought a new fuel pump module but haven't installed it yet.
What are your experiences? What is the problem?
I have an 04' QG18, had very similar issues. In warmer weather more-so, but the car would lose power and idle weird then shutoff after driving for a bit (sometimes quite a while). After shutting off, the car would take 20 mins+ to start up again. Turns out it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor malfunction (common for the qg18). It is hard to reach up on the backside of the engine, and Nissan dealerships have the exact tool to install a new one. I fiddle-fucked-around under my car trying to do it myself fo 2 days but couldn't get the damn thing out without their special pliers :( .The part is around $20 and labor cost is minimal. Can almost guarantee that's the problem as it sounds as I spent a long time scratching my head over it.

Good luck

B15 Sentra 1.8 Inferno Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for your reply. Valuable information indeed. I put Chevron/Techron injector cleaner in the tank. Wife is afraid of the car; she doesn't want to go anywhere with me in it.
I wrote the Scotty Kilmer website. They suggested the fuel pressure needed checking when the problem is occurring, to change the sock filter, that the pump might be starting to fail, and that the fuel line might be shot (have a hole in it)?
I am now waiting for the Innova 5610 to arrive so I might be able to see what the computer is reporting when the problem is occurring.
My wife wants me to get rid of it. She wants a new car. I tried to tell her that the car is old, but has few miles and should still be reliable. Some Nissan cars can be driven for almost 300,000 miles. I will try to report back on my findings. I know that some people never report back after their problem is solved.
 

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My wife wants me to get rid of it. She wants a new car. I tried to tell her that the car is old, but has few miles and should still be reliable. Some Nissan cars can be driven for almost 300,000 miles.
Tell her that for the cost of change-over to a new car you can buy lots of replacement parts for this car, many of which are normal replacements anyway. Then ask her if there are other things she could use the left-over money for.
People often think a new car is cheaper but when you factor in the cost of regular servicing to keep the warranty and the cost of interest payments on a loan then new cars aren't really that cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi all. Here are my latest findings. I hooked up the Innova 5610 and here is what it read: Code P1140 (1/1) Intake timing S / Circuit B1
None of the emissions codes read by Autozone appeared. How do I troubleshoot and repair this? I read somewhere that it can even be caused by dirty oil. The scan tool says not to drive the car until it is repaired. This is a B15 2000 model Sentra GXE. Any ideas on how to find the problem? I did drive through some light water across the roadway when this occurred. Can it be a shorted ECU due to wet foam? What is your best guess?
Thanks, Dennis-
 

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It's probably what 1.8_B15_InfernoRed said then. I'm not familiar with your engine. However, I'd probably start with testing the harness for the intake timing solenoid with a multimeter and make sure it reads within spec..

Use the FSM for your car you can get it at just google "Nico club Nissan FSM" and select your Sentra year and model. Look at the alphabetical index and search for "intake timing solenoid" and find out which section it's in. It will tell you everything in how to diagnose etc..

If the wiring harness looks good and reads within spec, I'd replace:

- Intake timing control solenoid valve

- crankshaft position sensor

- camshaft position sensor

- change oil and filter

Replace with OEM parts only if this car means a lot to you and you wanna keep it and make it reliable.
 
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I'm not by any means an expert but I'll toss one in. At least others can give there thoughts. It could be warning you it's going to need a timing chain/belt. Especially with tensioner set ups. The different loads...water..put a stress through out. Pumping the pedal only makes you feel better not really the car. Turning the key over and over could be letting the tension back in place then drives fine until it gets stressed out again. Just a thought and it's easier to do before it goes.

There's not a code I know of that says it's a timing chain/belt but it will through off all kinds of other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi, Today I watched a video of a mechanic who has great success washing the timing valve solenoids out using brake cleaner. He says that the oil screens get plugged up. Has anyone else done that?
I plugged in the scanner and cleared the code and drove the car around the block. I got a yellow code pending light.
Dennis-
 
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