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Hey guys I’m new here to the forum. I just purchased a Sentra Nismo and decided to buy a lot of performance parts on Black Friday. Here pics of what I bought
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I will let you guys know how everything goes and update as much as possible. My next upgrades are going to be a front mount inter cooler, down pipe, TFR turbo upgrade, performance clutch and flywheel and a tune.
 

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nice list: just be careful of that style of diverter valve upgrade, we have found that the plastic casing can crack when reinstalling the new spring and the plastic on plastic seal it uses (the oem part) still lets boost creep past!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nice list: just be careful of that style of diverter valve upgrade, we have found that the plastic casing can crack when reinstalling the new spring and the plastic on plastic seal it uses (the oem part) still lets boost creep past!
Thanks! I’m going to try my luck with gfb diverter valve and if that fails I’ll probably buy the turbo smart diverter valve. I’m just waiting for parts now.
 

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Any updates here? I’ve got a Nismo, curious what you think of the mods since they are somewhat prevented from much hp gain by the ecu without a tune...
 

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Any updates here? I’ve got a Nismo, curious what you think of the mods since they are somewhat prevented from much hp gain by the ecu without a tune...
The MR engine responds very well to mods. But obviously a tune is the way to go. I don't have a B17, but my Juke is virtually the same car. The exhaust is always the most restrictive aspect, but if you go full exhaust and a tune, you will see solid increases. I am around 300 crank Hp on my Juke with no turbo upgrades, and I could go more if I honestly wanted too.
 

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The MR engine responds very well to mods. But obviously a tune is the way to go. I don't have a B17, but my Juke is virtually the same car. The exhaust is always the most restrictive aspect, but if you go full exhaust and a tune, you will see solid increases. I am around 300 crank Hp on my Juke with no turbo upgrades, and I could go more if I honestly wanted too.
The v2 mr and the v1 mr are not the same in any way as far as tuning goes. the turbo system is completely different. The tuning is completely different. The engine management is completely different. The compression is different. It is extremely difficult to even get a tune for a b17 turbo. I would be interested to know how you got the crank horsepower? Also how, on a stock turbo you got to that claimed number? The oem v1 turbo will not make over 250 peak horsepower unless your on a really skewed dyno. And even if you hit that number, the graph would look like a mountain, which is not efficient.
 

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The v2 mr and the v1 mr are not the same in any way as far as tuning goes. the turbo system is completely different. The tuning is completely different. The engine management is completely different. The compression is different. It is extremely difficult to even get a tune for a b17 turbo. I would be interested to know how you got the crank horsepower? Also how, on a stock turbo you got to that claimed number? The oem v1 turbo will not make over 250 peak horsepower unless your on a really skewed dyno. And even if you hit that number, the graph would look like a mountain, which is not efficient.
Full 3 inch exhaust turbo back, Custom intercooler and piping, custom clutch, Stage 2 ECUTek tune, 22lbs of boost. It really wasn't hard. I have been helping push the limits of the MR and TD04 turbo on these cars since I got my Juke in 2012, though I stopped once people started doing turbo upgrades. Dyno graph is clean, the car was professionally tuned by John Visconti at PSI Proformance (though it really needs a retune).

Also what is the compression if it isn't 9.5:1 ? I was under the impression that the engines were damn near identical. Power output from factory seems to be the same. The only thing I know is different is the transmissions.

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the V2 mr uses a 10:1 compression ratio. Different piston design. The entire engine is redesigned. The main castings are the same but that is about where the similarities of the engine itself end. The turbocharger is 1/2 the size of the v1 turbo. MR16DDT V1 vs V2 Turbo Comparison - YouTube

It also uses an all electronic boost control system, and has a full egr system, which makes it so the engine needs to be removed to change out the downpipe: How V2 MR16DDT Boost Control Works - YouTube

egr system can be seen in this video: V2 MR16DDT Big Turbo Episode 3 - YouTube
 

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the V2 mr uses a 10:1 compression ratio. Different piston design. The entire engine is redesigned. The main castings are the same but that is about where the similarities of the engine itself end. The turbocharger is 1/2 the size of the v1 turbo. MR16DDT V1 vs V2 Turbo Comparison - YouTube

It also uses an all electronic boost control system, and has a full egr system, which makes it so the engine needs to be removed to change out the downpipe: How V2 MR16DDT Boost Control Works - YouTube

egr system can be seen in this video: V2 MR16DDT Big Turbo Episode 3 - YouTube
Thanks for the lesson, had no idea so much changed since I stepped out of the MR game. Definitely good to know, so I appreciate the info. I've kind of fallen back into the Z world so my Juke doesn't get a lot of love anymore (though I ordered a short shifter for it finally lol).

But yea right now, my Juke on the stock turbo and wastegate is probably at about 290 crank, maybe a bit more. I've been thinking about the Mambatek turbo upgrade to crack 300 but my Z is taking up most my money right now.
 

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Whooooah 22 pounds on a juje, how does she ride? Is it a DD or project car? That intercooler is THHIIIICK nice build, the looks so unassuming in that blue
 

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Whooooah 22 pounds on a juje, how does she ride? Is it a DD or project car? That intercooler is THHIIIICK nice build, the looks so unassuming in that blue
Was a daily for a long time. It got hit while in front of my house and since it was repaired I haven't driven it, but once I get some fresh tires she will back on the road. It will go back to being my daily once my daughter is born so my wife can have the Pathfinder all day. I just ordered a short shifter and have a brand new Siebon CF hood ready to go on (stock hood rusted real bad for some reason). Car rides perfect, very easy to daily especially in normal setting.
 

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Whooooah 22 pounds on a juje, how does she ride? Is it a DD or project car? That intercooler is THHIIIICK nice build, the looks so unassuming in that blue
22 is about what most people run with a tune. Tiny turbo needs a lot of boost to do anything. The 400 horsepower Juke I built is running 24psi on a way bigger turbo. Keep in mind it is only 1598cc's. Takes a LOT more pressure to make anything happen on an engine that small.
 

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2JR confirmed in his youtube video and dyno testing results that any and all mods added to the mr16ddt platform that is present in the 2017-2018 Nismo do not do anything much at all without a tune because the computer intelligently cancels the power increases out.


watch and listen clearly. Basically it seems the platform possesses potential as is and power output can be increased with a tune alone and no bolt ons. (Obviously he uses dynos from the type r initially but he says similar things about the nismo afterward)
 

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And I’m not a fanboy of 2jr products or anything like that. just good info since they’ve fabricated parts for the engine. I’m personally keeping mine stock other than a tune, until my warranties are gone.
 

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Tuning the car without doing mods is VERY bad for the oem components, especially the cats. Your adding more heat and airflow over the cats then they where designed for, which means the cat will break down faster. Overnight? No, of course not, but significantly faster than it would on a stock tune. You are also going to pushing the efficiency of the turbocharger. Adding more boost with the oem intercooler and oem exhaust means that turbo now has to work significantly harder to spin faster and produce CFM, which means more heat into the engine, which means less efficiency over-all and a higher risk of pre-detonation. I get staying stock. But getting torque below 4000 rpm at the cost of long term reliability just seems silly to me.

Another thing to note is this: Though you are not "making more power" with bolt on's, there are many other benefits. The intercooler for instance. After 1-2 highway pulls we have seen the oem interooler double intake temps, which means a massive loss in torque/power. It cannot keep up with the heat from such a small turbo. By upgrading that you MAINTAIN consistent intake temps which means consistent power.

Same goes for the oem diverter valve. It is trash. At the stock boost it leaks, quite a bit. It uses a plastic on metal "seal". Even doing the "upgraded internals" on it, it still leaks. I have done smoke and pressure tests to confirm this. By upgrading to a better valve you reduce turbo wear, increase turbo efficiency, and do actually see an increase in fuel economy. Skip to 1:05 to see what I mean: How V2 MR16DDT Boost Control Works - YouTube

These are just a few examples.

I had a sentra SR turbo here yesterday. He has a FMIC and diverter valve. That's it. Installed well over 2 years ago. He still talks about how much better the car drives and how it does not feel like a slug anymore when he's been beating on it.

The first ever v2 downpipe installed, was on a gentleman's car in Michigan. He drove to me in Boston to do it. He saw a 3mpg increase on his ride home. Which is pretty substantial. No other mods to the car.

Common misconception is you mod an engine to make more power. This is just not true. Builders who only look at a peak power figure are not looking at the whole picture. Efficiency should always be concern number one. Power comes second. Well, actually: Safety comes first, Reliability comes Second, Efficiency comes Third, and Power comes Fourth. Especially on a tiny turbo car, where the graph looks like a cliff after the turbo runs out of steam with a tune, which any good tuner will tell you means the car will not be fast, it will just hit hard when you take off.

Just so you are aware of where my information comes from: I have been doing V2 work since they came out and am still the only person offering a downpipe upgrade due to the cat failures I saw when ecutek tuning on these had started.
 

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SO what you are saying is to upgrade to high flow bigger diameter cats?
Cat-less is obviously best for efficiency and performance, but bad for Captain Planet. On the v2 there is no room for a high flow cat on the downpipe due to the EGR system and how tight it is. Hell, the OEM cat literally has a 90* bend built into it to fit, its so bad haha. When I do high flow cats for the V2 I put them on the second cat pipes I make. I do: Flange, High Flow Cat, flex pipe, then the rest of the pipe to finish it. That way the cat is as close to the head as I can get it to warm it up faster to make it work quicker.

On the v1 engines (the jukes) you can put a high flow cat right in the aftermarket downpipe. On those I run a 3" inlet and outlet cat on a 2.5" downpipe using reducers before and after the cat, so the flow area inside the cat is significantly larger and does not build up as much back pressure as a 2.5" inlet/outlet cat. I wish I could do this on the v2's, but unless you do an egr delete, you cant.

The biggest issue on a sentra SR or nismo is the labor to replace the downpipe. The engine has to come out. It is the fastest and easiest way to do it. I tried doing it the way Nissan says to in the FSM, and it took two days. I had another tech at the dealership I worked at try to do it as well, took him the same amount of time. Pulling the engine, the whole job takes ~8 hours if you go hard at it. So, what happens is, people see how hard of a job it is, and just don't do it. I have sold 30+ v2 downpipes in the past two years to out of state customers and I am willing to bet 50% of them are sitting on a shelf. I can't count how many times I've shipped one out and get an email a few days later saying: "I didn't realize how hard this was to put it, how much and how long for you to do it for me, I live X hours away, but I am willing to make the trip."

Shit, last month I had a guy drive 17 hours one way for me to install his downpipe on his Sentra Turbo.
 

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Tuning the car without doing mods is VERY bad for the oem components, especially the cats. Your adding more heat and airflow over the cats then they where designed for, which means the cat will break down faster. Overnight? No, of course not, but significantly faster than it would on a stock tune. You are also going to pushing the efficiency of the turbocharger. Adding more boost with the oem intercooler and oem exhaust means that turbo now has to work significantly harder to spin faster and produce CFM, which means more heat into the engine, which means less efficiency over-all and a higher risk of pre-detonation. I get staying stock. But getting torque below 4000 rpm at the cost of long term reliability just seems silly to me.

Another thing to note is this: Though you are not "making more power" with bolt on's, there are many other benefits. The intercooler for instance. After 1-2 highway pulls we have seen the oem interooler double intake temps, which means a massive loss in torque/power. It cannot keep up with the heat from such a small turbo. By upgrading that you MAINTAIN consistent intake temps which means consistent power.

Same goes for the oem diverter valve. It is trash. At the stock boost it leaks, quite a bit. It uses a plastic on metal "seal". Even doing the "upgraded internals" on it, it still leaks. I have done smoke and pressure tests to confirm this. By upgrading to a better valve you reduce turbo wear, increase turbo efficiency, and do actually see an increase in fuel economy. Skip to 1:05 to see what I mean: How V2 MR16DDT Boost Control Works - YouTube

These are just a few examples.

I had a sentra SR turbo here yesterday. He has a FMIC and diverter valve. That's it. Installed well over 2 years ago. He still talks about how much better the car drives and how it does not feel like a slug anymore when he's been beating on it.

The first ever v2 downpipe installed, was on a gentleman's car in Michigan. He drove to me in Boston to do it. He saw a 3mpg increase on his ride home. Which is pretty substantial. No other mods to the car.

Common misconception is you mod an engine to make more power. This is just not true. Builders who only look at a peak power figure are not looking at the whole picture. Efficiency should always be concern number one. Power comes second. Well, actually: Safety comes first, Reliability comes Second, Efficiency comes Third, and Power comes Fourth. Especially on a tiny turbo car, where the graph looks like a cliff after the turbo runs out of steam with a tune, which any good tuner will tell you means the car will not be fast, it will just hit hard when you take off.

Just so you are aware of where my information comes from: I have been doing V2 work since they came out and am still the only person offering a downpipe upgrade due to the cat failures I saw when ecutek tuning on these had started.
well, I’m perfectly aware of what modding a car does and how it increases efficiency along with power. I’m not some teenager I’m an adult I’ve been around the block, so your excessive post doesn‘t prove or disprove anything, nor changes my opinions on the matter.

You can say what you will, but you’re absolutely wrong that running the car with a tune and no bolt ons will ruin it. You shouldn’t spout baseless information, especially if you know anything about tunes, the parameters that can be modified can be done without causing damage unless you’re just some boost junkie. You can sell your stuff and opinions to everyone else but I’m not buying it.

and for future reference you can refrain from posting your long boring posts in reply to my posts because I don’t care nor was I asking for advice because I don’t need it.

nothing personal, I’m sure you’re a cool dude and all
 

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Nah, he's actually correct.

Another example is running Rotella T6 oil.


It's bad ass oil. Great for the valve train!

It will fuck your cats up with repeated use.

And unlike us specV guys that can swap out certain pipes easily, in this aspect, if this engine, making changes and not adjusting the Tube will ruin reliability.


I think it's great for people to be able to mod their cars. But there's alot of times it isn't often acknowledged you changing shit is going to POSSIBLY effect reliability, emissions, fuel usage (mpg).
 
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