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You can say what you will, but you’re absolutely wrong that running the car with a tune and no bolt ons will ruin it. You shouldn’t spout baseless information, especially if you know anything about tunes, the parameters that can be modified can be done without causing damage unless you’re just some boost junkie.
...I quite literally build and tune these cars weekly...lol...I'm tuning 3 of them this week.

The information is not baseless.

Anyone who knows the engineering of how a catalytic converter works knows they are located and designed specifically for a heat/pressure range...by moving outside of those parameters you wear the cat down...and by adding boost (more air) and fuel, you create more explosive energy which means more heat.

My "long boring posts" are full of information backed by sources. And are there not to entertain but to try and help educate, whether is be you or someone else who reads them...I am not trying to sell anything in this thread. Just giving the knowledge I have learned by doing these cars specifically for the past 8 years.


For example I did 2 1 year long experiments. I took my personal Juke and did full bolt ons to it. Downpipe back exhaust, intercooler, intake, diverter valve. I beat the snot out of it. did 12k miles. No codes, compression test was the same before and after. Then I put a big turbo on it and drove it around another year. No tune. Did 8k miles. No codes, compression test the same before and after. In both instances I saw an increase in average fuel efficiency. And when data-logging the fuel trims where the same as stock, timing was the same as stock, and the air fuel ratios where the same as stock.

The ECU's in modern cars are smart. They know where the maps should all be to be the most efficient and safest. Which is why bolt ons wont give you any power gains. Gone are the days of a bolt on mod changing how the engine performs. Now a bolt on can just increase the efficiency of the air pump (engine) whilst the computer keeps everything at a set target using additional sensors.

As soon as you change the tune, all that built in safety goes right out the window. You are now past what the manufacturer designed the parts to handle. There's a reason you have to sign a waiver when you get a ecu tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Hey super sorry for the long wait.... status update...😊

After my performance parts arrived I ended up putting the cold air intake, hard piping, oil catch can, the diverter valve upgrade. I got the exhaust and mid pipe put on at the local exhaust shop (don’t recommend). I held off on the light weight pulley because I didn’t know if I would commit to going all in on the Nismo. After 1 month and a half I notice the exhaust smell coming from the engine bay when my window was rolled down. Then I notice my exhaust sounded like my it was drowning. I notice that the GFB diverter valve upgrade started failing like it took a moment to try to boost like stock maybe worst. Also I ended up breaking/bending the stock Inter cooler trying to do my own mechanic work(I suck ass) and also even with the hard piping the car heat soaks like a mofo. For the 1 month and half that parts were on my car it performed like a charm but then all this other stuff happened. Well I didn’t notice the problem until 3 months in me putting in the parts(again I suck ass) so I got hella worried so I ended up buying more parts to hopefully solve the issue (pics somewhere). After receiving the new parts I ended up going to my local performance shop to get them put on. This is what they did FMU Comprehensive Multi Point Inspection. I ended up installing the light weight pulley, inter cooler kit, TFR diverter valve, and engine mount inserts. The only thing that I haven’t installed is the boost gauge. I can honestly say that all the money I spent was worth it.

The verdict:
I don’t recommend anyone getting the GFB diverter valve upgrade and the hard piping kit. Your only throwing away your hard earned money. If you’re going to go all in I recommend the intercooler kit, the fast religion diverter valve small plum Shorty, exhaust system cat back and a mid pipe, short ram intake, engine mount inserts, oil catch can. This way you can beat the snot out of it with peace of mind!?

Next:
I’m going to try to focus on the performance parts that require the engine to be removed or maybe Big brake kit, aftermarket shocks and springs.Hopefully by mid next year I am able to do everything including the tune.

173231
 

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Glad you like the parts you got from me!

You should try the motor mount inserts next, they will blow your mind. reduces engine movement EVEN more, and NO vibrations. I am making a video about them this week. Doing a full bolt on SR turbo for someone.

Hard pipes are purely an aesthetic thing for sure. The only soft part of the oem intercooler piping that needs to be addressed is the longer soft tube, they all get soft and collapse eventually, but replacing the entire system is money that really does not need to be spent. The OEM plastic pipe to the TB will take anything you can throw at it. Be careful if you still have aftermarket hard pipes on the TB. The throttle does not have a bead on it and have a slight taper inwards on them, which makes the couplers tend to wiggle their way off. Makes for a fun BANG when you are getting on the highway haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Hey guys I have an update…

well I bought some parts for the tranny/things..


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173315
173316


Also my brother is gifting me for my bday a weighted shift knob in the cosmic red color
173318


Ill let you guys know how it goes. If I take forever to post I’m sorry but I work every day no lie.
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
… update…. Everything is getting installed other than the throttle adapter. I’m also getting the boost gauge installed. I will update as soon as possible.
 

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Lol … well since I had fmi installed they did a good job so I figured if it ever did happen to pop off/loosen I have one ready just in case.
i know this is an old post but im curious as to how everything is holding up right now. i have a 2017 sr turbo and ive been looking at 2j an fast religion also.
 

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Why does the Nissan Sentra TL4 not have a pilot bearing for the trans input shaft to the crank?!?!? I’m hesitant to put my new clutch in from 2j. I have the manual not the cvt but the cvt has one? Any answers before I just slap it in and hope for the best!
 

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There is no pilot bushing in the six speed cranks. Nissan did not deem it necessary. The CVT's have an aluminum insert that keeps the torque converter centered, as they can wobble from being full of fluid.
 
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