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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Does anyone else have this issue or know why it may be happening? So the car starts right up every morning no problem. Once I come home and the car is off for a couple hours it gives me trouble starting.If the car is off for only an hour then it gives a little trouble starting the longer the car is off the harder it is to start. But once I turn off for the night ( 8 hours or so) it starts up in the morning no problem. No check engine light, no codes. 2019 Sentra SE.
 

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Sounds like the battery is dead from supporting the alternator, need to replace the battery and get the alternator tested to ensure its sending out the correct amps/volts. Do the battery testing in the evening as if you do it in the morning it might test good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your reply. It has been doing this for about 2 months now. My question is if it is the alternator or battery then why does it only do it in the evening and after car is off for a couple hours but never in the morning?
 

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Battery gets drained after use so volts and amps are low due to supporting a low output alternator or due to bad cells in the battery itself.... heat will also play a part pending location. When not in use it will.. regain... what ever amps it has available over what ever period of time.

Had a battery like that, car would start after coming home, to battery to get tested in the morning and tested fine. Had to drive it for a little while and go to the parts store and pull the battery there to test and it was bad. Alternator was still good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Battery gets drained after use so volts and amps are low due to supporting a low output alternator or due to bad cells in the battery itself.... heat will also play a part pending location. When not in use it will.. regain... what ever amps it has available over what ever period of time.

Had a battery like that, car would start after coming home, to battery to get tested in the morning and tested fine. Had to drive it for a little while and go to the parts store and pull the battery there to test and it was bad. Alternator was still good.
Ok. Thank you. Will have it checked in the afternoon and reply.
 

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Did the later model sentras reimburse the egr system?
 

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Did the later model sentras reimburse the egr system?
turbo b17's have an EGR system, so not this one.

I would have the alternator checked.

Issues related to a car sitting when warm are usually either a fuel pressure issue, a physical starter issue, or something related to the crank (bearings or torque converter causing drag, but you would have other symptoms with that).

Take the vehicle to a dealership in the afternoon. Tell them EXACTLY what it is doing, and they will re-create the conditions. Without the car in front of everyone here, it is just going to be a bunch of wild guess's
 

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Hard to start means alot of things. Explain whats goinng on exactly. No crank, no start; or crank, no start. I also see alot of software updates needed. Never know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hard to start means alot of things. Explain whats goinng on exactly. No crank, no start; or crank, no start. I also see alot of software updates needed. Never know.
Push button start. Press button and it cranks for about 5-6 seconds then starts. Only in the afternoon. Never in the mornings. No check engine light. No codes. Alternator replaced 20,000 miles ago.
 

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First check the battery's water level, if low fill the cells to each full mark using distilled water.
If you have a multi meter, look up how to check your battery's static voltage. When the engine is not operating & the alternator is thus not charging your battery. Your battery should reflect its voltage at least at 12 volts. If it show less than 12 volts, there may be one or more bad cells in it. How old is the battery ? Most don't last more than 6 years. When operating.... the battery should be showing around 14 volts, as the alternator is reading your electrical system needs plus it's replenishing what charge was removed when your startermotor cranked the engine over until ignition was accomplished.
Take the car to a parts store that will do a running check of the battery and charging system. They will have you turn on your headlamps, heater or A/C, to put your system under a "LOAD" to see if the alternator is reading the increased "demand" and has stepped up it's recharge rate. This stepping up, occurrs until the battery reflects a full charge...then the alternator will reduce output to satisfy the normal needs of the system as you engage various accessories such as radio, wipers. This will tell you if either the battery or alternator is or is not functioning as designed. If both are OK, there may be a "parasitic drain" when the vehicle is not running.
The culprit could be an open relay somewhere.
Make sure your not leaving the dome light on after you closed n locked your door.. You can run your own parasitic drain test, with a multimeter.
But if you don't feel able to after you look up how to do that, a visit to an electrical repair shop or dealer may be required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
First check the battery's water level, if low fill the cells to each full mark using distilled water.
If you have a multi meter, look up how to check your battery's static voltage. When the engine is not operating & the alternator is thus not charging your battery. Your battery should reflect its voltage at least at 12 volts. If it show less than 12 volts, there may be one or more bad cells in it. How old is the battery ? Most don't last more than 6 years. When operating.... the battery should be showing around 14 volts, as the alternator is reading your electrical system needs plus it's replenishing what charge was removed when your startermotor cranked the engine over until ignition was accomplished.
Take the car to a parts store that will do a running check of the battery and charging system. They will have you turn on your headlamps, heater or A/C, to put your system under a "LOAD" to see if the alternator is reading the increased "demand" and has stepped up it's recharge rate. This stepping up, occurrs until the battery reflects a full charge...then the alternator will reduce output to satisfy the normal needs of the system as you engage various accessories such as radio, wipers. This will tell you if either the battery or alternator is or is not functioning as designed. If both are OK, there may be a "parasitic drain" when the vehicle is not running.
The culprit could be an open relay somewhere.
Make sure your not leaving the dome light on after you closed n locked your door.. You can run your own parasitic drain test, with a multimeter.
But if you don't feel able to after you look up how to do that, a visit to an electrical repair shop or dealer may be required.
Thank you for this. So the battery and alternator were checked in the afternoon and both are putting out great. Battery is a year old and alternator is 6 months. I have been reading and hearing that it could be one or more coil packs. As they are the original and have 140,000 on them. Or possibly a bad plug or trouble in one of the ignition harness connectors.
 

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Well, I have a 2002 Sentra, average miles per year on it, but still the original coil packs. Could you take it to a reliable shop, and park it, let it sit and attempt to duplicate the hard start ???
OK, You could try buying just two coil packs. One as a back up, in case you pull one and it comes apart or something..
OK...having a known "NEW" coil pack or two. OK: on day one before you set off on your normal drive, before you depart you swap out plug/coil pack from cylinder one and replace it with a NEW coil pack. Return as normal and see later if it still will not start, meaning (the engine will rotate but the cylinders won't ignite). The next day return the original plug/coil pack to cylinder one. Then do the same with the NEW coil pack to cylinder number two.
 

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I'm NOT sure about the plug/coil pack theory.. If you had a problem with one or two plugs/coil packs, I'm pretty sure you would still get ignition on the other cylinders BUT you would have extremely low power due to the engine running on two less cylinders. I've tinkered with non computer classic cars since the late 1960's. Often when we thought we had an ignition issue occasionally if was a fuel problem.. I would check to make sure you don't have any inline filters that may be blocked. Such as "vapor lock". Does that engine have a camshaft position sensor, that senses the position of the crankshaft or camshaft as it relates to engine timing ?? Again, if possible I would try to replicate the "non start" at a trusted garage, where at least they could check for air, fuel and spark, the three things all combustion engines need..
 

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P.S. Don't forget about the parasitic current drain. You may have a good battery and alternator, BUT if you still have that parasitic current draw, due to an open relay, it will still drain your battery slowly..
If it was a parasitic battery drain then the car would not start easily in the morning as it would be sitting longer overnight and draining the battery more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes. This is a mystery. Starts up and runs great for first couple hours in the morning. Then idle issues at stoplights and then once car is off for 30 minutes to 4 hours...it has trouble starting. After 4 hours and overnight...starts right up in the AM.
 
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