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Discussion Starter #1
Hey people! Has anyone used the V2 cams from 2j? How do they perform? are they worth the buy? are they ok on stock springs, retainers, and lift buckets? I have been eye balling them for awhile now and wanted to see of anyone has tried them. I have a b16, so i would only be getting the intake side cam.


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Hey people! Has anyone used the V2 cams from 2j? How do they perform? are they worth the buy? are they ok on stock springs, retainers, and lift buckets? I have been eye balling them for awhile now and wanted to see of anyone has tried them. I have a b16, so i would only be getting the intake side cam.


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even on a B16, to get any advantage from bump sticks, you will need a tune, and different springs. if you do not get a tune, they can actually hurt performance as the ECU is trying to use them like stock cams when they are not. They will however, bolt in and go without a tune. for full power from them tho, a tune is necessary, and if you are going to raise the rev limit to further up the power, springs are a must have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
even on a B16, to get any advantage from bump sticks, you will need a tune, and different springs. if you do not get a tune, they can actually hurt performance as the ECU is trying to use them like stock cams when they are not. They will however, bolt in and go without a tune. for full power from them tho, a tune is necessary, and if you are going to raise the rev limit to further up the power, springs are a must have.
Well i was going to get an email tune from 2j through my Uprev if i decide to go with the cam. I’m not planning to rev the car higher, so keeping stock springs should do. I just want more low end torque as well if these cams can achieve that? Its a daily driver, it see’s more city streets then track.


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1st, i waited, to post, because, while i have seen dyno tests and results from these cams ,i have never run them

they happened too late for me i'm using jwt c1s

the real advatage here is cost, you only need the intake cam



if, fooling around, your always over 3500-4000 rpm
these will will give you a nice kick


they do raise power and tq at those street levels

however, if shifting mostly at 2600-2800
IMO
these are a waste of time

use stock cams, tune with uprev for torque


joe was able to turn my drag race cams into good street cams
by using uprev to decrease overlap, essentially approaching stock cams


imo
[the vr2] these cams are designed to kick in at slightly higher rpm than stock and utilize that increase in rpm to produce higher tq and hp than oem cams
but
only at higher rpm

they kill from 3500-6500, maybe 6800 rpm

below that the stock cams are better
imo


if you want tq at street levels, within the oem cams power band.
may i suggest a tune for an e85/93 oct mix, percentage varies with your injector size

note, where and how much the street tq changes low on the rpm scale
for me 6th became a real gear

16lbs boost both runs
open exhaust, turbo for muffler, both runs
yogitune by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

and also a bit radical
a 30 shot of nitrous coming in at 3200rpm,
will do the same thing at near the same cost
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1st, i waited, to post, because, while i have seen dyno tests and results from these cams ,i have never run them

they happened too late for me i'm using jwt c1s

the real advatage here is cost, you only need the intake cam



if, fooling around, your always over 3500-4000 rpm
these will will give you a nice kick


they do raise power and tq at those street levels

however, if shifting mostly at 2600-2800
IMO
these are a waste of time

use stock cams, tune with uprev for torque


joe was able to turn my drag race cams into good street cams
by using uprev to decrease overlap, essentially approaching stock cams


imo
[the vr2] these cams are designed to kick in at slightly higher rpm than stock and utilize that increase in rpm to produce higher tq and hp than oem cams
but
only at higher rpm

they kill from 3500-6500, maybe 6800 rpm

below that the stock cams are better
imo


if you want tq at street levels, within the oem cams power band.
may i suggest a tune for an e85/93 oct mix, percentage varies with your injector size

note, where and how much the street tq changes low on the rpm scale
for me 6th became a real gear

16lbs boost both runs
open exhaust, turbo for muffler, both runs
yogitune by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

and also a bit radical
a 30 shot of nitrous coming in at 3200rpm,
will do the same thing at near the same cost
My car is driven from home to work. 20 minute drive to work every morning and after. Long roads with fun twisty’s and straight aways. So yes im always above 4k RPM these cams will be awesome for work commute, but city driving in stop and go traffic, not so much im guessing?


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you got it

they change the character of the motor, it feels and sounds more sporty
had more lope [excuse me, i love that sound] than my c1's

the mid range is great in the mts
and they extend 2nd gear for auto-x

when you tune, move the rev limit to 6800
but try not to go over 6500
esp with stock valve springs

the extra rpm helps skip a shift to 3rd on many auto-x courses
and makes a real gear out of 1st


[ on the drag strip allows for incredible launches on slicks,
using the rev limiter as a 2 step]

imo
 

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c1s require head modification to clear the cam lobes,
a 3" exhaust and tuned headers
as well as a good tune

see jwt's site
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=501

if going JWT imo for street get the s1's

if buying the c1's just get the intake cam and run it with the standard b16 exhaust cam
imo

C1s do exactly as jwt says, they increase the power and tq above 3500 rpm
however, they require some very expensive accessories to make use of them

the big tube header is expensive and rather rare for b16s
26903979_10156374780959925_818596200041937993_n by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

the head must be removed and machined for the additional cam lift
most of us will need to up grade the exhaust to a 3" diameter
20170811_130557 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr
DSCN1591 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

setup for street
2jr plenum, long tube CAI, race header, milled head, 3" side exhaust, c1 cams, uprev tuned
DSCN0116_zps3777b0ee by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

it produced 194 ft lbs of tq at 4200 rpm
was a good car in the street, turned low 14s ,weighing about 2900 lbs at the dragstrip,
was a great mountain car
and the easiest to drive at track speeds of my projects [think miata]

but the cost almost equaled the turbo
when you add in the necessities

yes you can run them other ways
with stock manifold, DC headers and 2.5" exhaust
cost me .3 in the 8th and 3 miles per hour, and dropped 26ft lbs of tq on the dyno
[read no advantage over s1's]

note 60mm catback
23be05cb-a06f-4936-b397-3d928c2b15c1_zpsb5e8b087 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

don't start me on this
my car went thru 4 exhaust systems, two headers, 3 intakes and two cai's
plus hours and hours on the dyno, trying to get to this state NA

so your homework has been done
a 2j medusa header, vr intake cam, 2jr cai, and a good 2.5" exhaust, for parts
and a good uprev tune should put you over 200 hp
[being very conservative here, more likely in the 220's]

that setup in a b15
DSCN1688 by Barry Belgard, on Flickr

i spent nearly 5k
[includes engine built with b16 rotating assembly and stage 4 clutch]]
playing with the NA motor

btw
i have not found the c1's helpful for turbo use
imo use stock cams for a street turbo
[unless custom ground, for turbo only, cams are used]

IMO, IMO, IMO
 
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