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You beat me to the punch. Chimmike was the guru. I think he may still hang around b15sentra.
He was, but he's moved on.

No offense to shogun sentra, but going off what he's posted in his threads, he did cheap out in a lot of areas.

But different people have different budgets. I'll be going down a similar path to what llsaw has done. However I'll be using either the gtx2860r or the gtx2863r. I don't really want to sacrifice much mid range power for more top end. Plus Garrett has a proven reliability with their turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
lol, not to mention most of the parts he currently has on the car now are cheap parts..
Yeah, cause my koni yellows and tanabe df210 springs were really cheap.. okay now that I understand that glowshift is a cheap brand, I should go more with AEM gauges then right? Or still too cheap for ya?
 

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As long as its not Glowshift, Prosport, Depo, etc. you should be good. If it's not made in America or Japan, don't buy it. IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm going for an Auto Meter full pillar pod with digital AEM AFR UEGO, boost and oil pressure gauges. Should be enough for now to make people refrain from calling my car cheap.
 

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The only advice I have is your car, your money, to hell with other people, but if you want our opinion like Karl said, go get some autometers and you'll be good to go.
 

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Also, get a mechanical boost gauge vs. an electric one. Faster response and generally cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well my clutch is going out (faster than I had anticipated) so I just bought a ClutchMasters FX300 Clutch today! Got a good deal too so I'm excited :D
 

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Well my clutch is going out (faster than I had anticipated) so I just bought a ClutchMasters FX300 Clutch today! Got a good deal too so I'm excited :D
Thas a damn good clutch, i got mine in Feb 07, still grips hard :cool:
 

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Can I suggest installing an lsd too while you have the gearbox out?

Something like a quiafe qdf17l, nismo 1.5way mechanical(if you can find one) or the standard viscous unit. You'll need to change the rear housing and drivers side drive shaft aswell.
 

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N20 works great too. 1hr install and 50hp at the flip of a switch and foot to the floor.

I thought about building my qg when I had it. But after looking for parts (pistons, rods, etc) and not finding any aftermarket support, I gave up. N20 was very fun. I can only imagine what it would have been like with an intake/header/exhaust/2j pulley/etc.
 

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I also plan on boosting my QG18DE! It would be fun to add a little boost and the gain doesn't even have to be significant. All this research on how turbos work is keeping me from studying for my midterm :rambo:


Good luck with the build!
 

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Yeah, cause my koni yellows and tanabe df210 springs were really cheap.. okay now that I understand that glowshift is a cheap brand, I should go more with AEM gauges then right? Or still too cheap for ya?
Who cares if the gauges are cheap as long as they work? I understand not cheaping out on other parts, but They all will work. I have prosport gauges and they did not cost much. They are good quality too.
 

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Who cares if the gauges are cheap as long as they work? I understand not cheaping out on other parts, but They all will work. I have prosport gauges and they did not cost much. They are good quality too.
Just from my personal experience I've seen a ProSport "premium" boost gauge read inaccurately that I personally installed, so I can't recommend them to anyone. Also seen a few people on here with weird vacuum readings using them. I have seen SOME that work fine, but IMO it's not worth the gamble.
 

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As long as its not Glowshift, Prosport, Depo, etc. you should be good. If it's not made in America or Japan, don't buy it. IMO.
it's not about cost to me but function
i tried to be a good glowshift dealer, and the distributors were very nice people who always tried to help
however when we discovered a problem
the Chinese manufacturer would agree and send us brand new, defective parts
over and over
same with the Chinese helicopters i was selling
it's the main reason that rotors, motors and more [splashed all over my car]
is more a holding co. than an operating co now
 

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Who cares if the gauges are cheap as long as they work?
exactly and accurate too

but cheap and non functional?

example
obx is cheap
why put an obx catback on a car so detailed it uses titanium lug nuts?
cause it works, looks good lasted me 5 years with out rust
[not a recommendation, Travis hand selected it, ported it, it's probably the best obx cat back ever made lol. car went 12.65 thru the catback]

and now on my wife's estimated 60 grand sentra
i'm running a $349 2jr side exhaust
not a stromburg
you already know why
 

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i hope to demo the below system by late summer

N20 works great too. 1hr install and 75hp at the flip of a switch
change due to use of a progressive controllers

a very expensive system but a revolution in nitrous is progressive controllers

these allow real street use [even RR use]
all the while afr protected, analysed and constantly adjusted

and not just at full throttle
small shots occur from 2000 rpm up with very little shock to the motor

on the road i tested a 427 chellevele [like this needs n2o lol] a very nice 13 sec street car with low idle and excellent towing capability
turn on the n20, it's a 10 sec car [1.36s for 60 ft, can you imagine] driveable in the rain
the n20 is tuned to come in so smoothly there is no real hit
traction stays consistent
once i felt this there could be no substitutes

NX MAXIMIZER 4
a small fortune cost more than the two n2o systems i got off craigslist together
and needs special solenoids too
 
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