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I broke my clutch the other day and was gonna replace it and I thought while I was doing it might as well switch out whatever is old so I’m wondering what kind of axels would perform best for my car
 

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Inspect the rubber boots for damage. Same with the tie rods and ball joints. If you're not sure whY your looking for, look for a free inspection by an alignment/ brake shop. Get the inspection ND then double check what they tell you to confirm it needs to be replaced.

The axels on our cars a very stout. The rubber boots are the main point of importance. If you do happen to get replacements, O'Reillys has them in a rebuilt or certified new. Which is pretty amazing. Chances are you won't need them.
 

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When you find a replacement axle for us that are not parts store axles then post them.
39100-ET80B and 39101-ET80B are discontinued but still available from many online retailers.

When the available supply dries up I would still purchase a used part in good condition over any big box store item.

I usually go to a local rack and axle rebuild brick and morter. From what I understand O'Reilly has an option where they literally build using all new parts.
Cheaply made, inferior quality product. Purchase at your own risk.
 

· The Watcher
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Those parts are claimed to be available but the reality is they haven't updated their info and due to the trans the likely hood of them having it is close to 0, though I would be shocked. That is the experience I have had when looking for parts

Finding used axles as well for the trans will be equally difficult if not more daunting. Looking for myself when I even find the proper axles they are in bad condition from what ever you can think of, salvage strictly speaking.

Its unfortunate and I don't like having chain parts store axles but mine have held up with no issue
 

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Those parts are claimed to be available but the reality is they haven't updated their info and due to the trans the likely hood of them having it is close to 0, though I would be shocked. That is the experience I have had when looking for parts

Finding used axles as well for the trans will be equally difficult if not more daunting. Looking for myself when I even find the proper axles they are in bad condition from what ever you can think of, salvage strictly speaking.

Its unfortunate and I don't like having chain parts store axles but mine have held up with no issue
I understand the difficulty.

One alternative is to strip the axles, clean them in kerosene, and replace the grease with redline. Then at least you're extending their useful lives. You should still use OEM boots if you can too, the aftermarket replacements are utter trash.

I have had limited success installing parts store axles on customer vehicles (supplied by them). The most common complaint was noise; popping under initial load and clicking/grinding at full lock. The ones that functioned properly wore out quickly, and some even had the boots balloon out after a hard day at the road course. One customer laughed and said he didn't care because he could just trade them out for new ones. My wife told me she didn't want to spend the money on a new OE set. First set of parts store crap lasted three years, and the second set made noise right out of the box. Conveniently they couldn't find my warranty so I had to pay out of pocket for a new set. So much for being cheaper! Spare yourself the headache, and just use OE stuff, even if you have to buy used.

I also had one fail on me somewhere between 145 and 150, the grease broke down with the heat and the boot turned to ballooned mush. It looked like a water balloon and was gooey. When it failed I could've gotten seriously injured, I had to input 90 degrees of steering angle just to maintain a straight trajectory. By far the most dangerous thing that's happened to me at high speeds. I never had an issue running OEM axles, and I will never buy another set of parts store axles.
 

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Go to nissanpartsdeal.com. More than likely your axles are fine, you can just get a boot kit from the site I mentioned. If you want a clutch get the exedy unit from rockauto or another source. It’s the OE manufacturer for Nissan clutches. I did mine not to long ago and got the exedy clutch kit, but I went OE with the flywheel. Get new flywheel bolts too and you’re going to need a TorxPlus-55 bit to remove the flywheel bolts. And since you’re in there replace the rear main seal as well. And DO NOT bench bleed the new slave. Bleed it once it’s in the car or you will never get all the air out.
 

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Just one gripe with your post that every body says, this is not against you.

I never understand why everyone says replace the main seal while you are in there. I under stand the purpose but its an out dated reason. Replace if it is weeping, cracking or damaged. If you have to replace it you have other problems that need to be addressed, these are not cast iron blocks.

Have a seal on hand but on the multiple clutch/FW jobs I have done, not a single need to replace the rear main. The only clutch job that I was prepared to do a rear main was on my first RS4 and I didn't need to after inspection.

I am not advocating that you do or don't and if you feel in is necessary I'm not judging, its just a "thing" that came out.


Also...people bench bleed, never seen it happen and not sure how that would work...makes no sense to me...
 
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I am also part of the group who would replace a rear main seal. I wouldn't want some $5 seal destroying my brand new clutch. It's just so cheap. As long as you're buying an OEM part, I say go ahead and change it. Especially if you don't have the means to just yank a transmission off like it's a Saturday cookout.

And I don't get the part about not bench bleeding. The whole point of bench bleeding is to avoid air pockets, and I've never had an issue doing it. In fact I've only ever bench bled hydraulics.
 

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I have never looked in to bench bleeding, I have never had an issue with air in the system while bleeding the system in the vehicle...even when I had to do it by myself

The rear main is my .02 and its a valid reason for those that do replace them but it makes no sense to me but at the same time I have been around different motors and drive train that I don't see the point unless visually or evidently. These are on items that cost millions with "weaker" seals...and lives on the line....but I never really care about the latter so take it with a grain of salt.

At the end of the day do what you think is better.
 

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And when an oem motor cost over $20k for a car (not including shipping) and timing components are in the rear too..... lol

We can go back and forth on this all day, realize I'm not denying the reason/purpose.

If I had a customer I would do it too, good thing I'm not talking about the work I do on other peoples cars...
 
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I've almost never replaced the rear main seal when doing a clutch. I'm not against it, but I do always inspect. I mean, for those of us that are working on our car, like cricki said it doesn't matter, but on my daughters Ser, I'd do it every time, so I understand the point.
 

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I have never looked in to bench bleeding, I have never had an issue with air in the system while bleeding the system in the vehicle...even when I had to do it by myself

The rear main is my .02 and its a valid reason for those that do replace them but it makes no sense to me but at the same time I have been around different motors and drive train that I don't see the point unless visually or evidently. These are on items that cost millions with "weaker" seals...and lives on the line....but I never really care about the latter so take it with a grain of salt.

At the end of the day do what you think is better.
I ran into the bench bleed issue when I had to recently replace my clutch and slave. Idk if the one that came in the kit was bad( very possible) but I ended up getting a valeo unit and it said in the instructions not to bench bleed the new slave.
 
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