A Nissan Sentra Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Battery relocation is nothing new but I'm just posting some things to highlight in my search for doing a kit from scratch. I have not decided on a battery yet and I want to do this after I move unless something bumps the necessity for it now.....any who...

Cables is the first thing and the standard cable size that comes in kits is 1/0. So what the big deal right, just run that cable size???, that would be a fair assessment but I found 4/0 and can't decide between them.


Pro(s): Higher power handling characteristics.
Con(s): Heavier
Larger Diameter

Enough on that, next is terminals. Seems a no brainer, get ones that work with the battery and cables....well I don't want normal ones and will decide between these two until I find something that piques my interest even more.



For the Knu Konceptz the negative terminal looks the same.

Overkill but allows for pain free additions.

Well, I still need to figure out how I want to connect power in the engine bay and what I want to do about the grounding kit stuff but I mainly wanted this post for a reminder for me and new info for others.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tritton

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,295 Posts
My thoughts...4ga power wire is plenty. 2ga is also good. Anything over is overkill, but everyone has their own preference.

I like the newer Nissan and Toyota battery terminals. This way, the terminals are never taken off, just add ring terminals.

Toyota part numbers.243407F001 is the Negative (16mm) 243407F000 is the Positive (18mm)

Imo, aem battery terminals never fit right. Sometimes need to overtighten and mess us the posts.

For a battery mount, I like front mounted batteries. I have an idea of cutting the area below the stock battery and make a mount lower, so you just drop the battery in and have access to top 2-3" so it's out of the way.



Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh, this is for trunk relocation for me. I'll update the title to reduce confusion.

If I was modding in/around the OEM location or area it would be a different story and would be sticking close to OEM wires.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice chart, will reference as I haven't measured the route I want to use

It's still going to be DD and I'm going to run a higher CCA battery, I want to reduce voltage drop while ensuring I don't, really overkill and reduce from there with accessories in mind.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tritton

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
I got a kit from Treadstone years ago. Just cause I was buying a ton of shit from them at the time. I got 2ga wire and a decent battery box. 110 amp batter fuse that pops all the damn time. I see there's a breaker you can put in now. That'll save me money.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Part of the reason I don't want to use 2ga....but is it 2ga or 2/0, there is a difference.

There is a reason why the kits I saw recently use 1/0 wire, reduces fuse blowing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tritton

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
There is for some devices a direct relationship between volts and amps. If the volts are below requirements then amps increase to makeup the required power. Other devices just don't work correctly if volts are too low.
Volts at the end of a wire depend on the wire resistance and larger wires have lower resistance hence less voltage difference between battery and engine compartment.

Measure your battery amps while everything is running, especially with lights to determine the amps draw required and then use the table to select the correct wire size for the run length. What the chart does not indicate is the resultant voltage drop for the indicated wire sizes so I presume it is just for current handling with no self-heating effects.
To ensure good cranking performance of the starter I would suggest increasing to the next wire size as starter motors use MUCH more amps, hence why battery volts drop considerably when cranking.

Instead of a larger cable size you also have the option to run parallel cables of the same size to increase the amp handling capacity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Part of the reason I don't want to use 2ga....but is it 2ga or 2/0, there is a difference.
Yes big difference in 2ga and 2/0. Its as if they ran out of numbers when setting the sizing standard; so they just add another 0 similar to adding more and more X's to a shirt size to make it bigger.
2/0 (00) is typical called 2 -aught or double -aught (-aught is an old English word for 0)
4/0 (0000) is the biggest I have ever seen/heard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,612 Posts
I will have to agree with Mirrortints. I was thinking a 4ga or a 2ga at most. 0 is pretty hefty and anything beyond that is way too large and heavy. I would use a wire that has a high thread count too like amp wire.

Ive been wanting to do this mod as well and looked into it a bit. I just didnt see any kits I liked, mostly from Summit. I would probly use a remote post as well to break off to starter/alt/fuseblock.

I didnt think about using 2 4ga wires together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,612 Posts
Edit: Now I see your 1/0ga post. Thats a big ass wire haha.

To power my 100amp (fused) amp I use 4ga power and ground wires. I suspect it pulls ~40 amps max. Im also curious to use an amp clamp while everything is on to see the amperage pull altogether
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Decided to look at batteries today, from Summit for now, and looking at all options above the highlighted numbers.

173733



Will be looking at other options as well but just leaving this for reference. I might be replacing my battery sooner but putting it in the stock location for now.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top