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Are they like a direct plug and play or you gotta solder stuff and wires and what not to make this thing work?

Also can I get my thread name updated? thing never changes dude
i doubt anyone makes a direct plug and play o2 sim, 3 wires, power, ground and signal all can be gotten by the ecu. i spliced mine in.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
i doubt anyone makes a direct plug and play o2 sim, 3 wires, power, ground and signal all can be gotten by the ecu. i spliced mine in.
Yea I was reading around about that sucks, I gotta figure something out.
I know there is 4 wires gray, green and 2 whites. green is always ground, gray I'm assuming is power, signal being the white wires but problem is my sensor doesnt reach the hole for it. its like 3 feet away.

I was running no sensor in the rear for about 800 miles and then slapped in my old sensor from the QG worked but caused the car to run to rich and car was acting up big time. Through SES light and was bogging and sounded like a subaru. AWESOME!

If anyone has good header for sale let me know, or I'm going to have to gut my cat to save my motor from this ticking time bomb.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
You can update it yourself or one of us can change it for ya. What would you like it to be?
Ive tried multiple times nothing updates the name but, could you change it to
Boarder1186 / 2004 1.8Spec V / Long Island, NY
thanks!

i cant read a wiring schematic to save my life. i just copied what was done to my boys vq since he already had one installed. if you get the schematic i can ask my boy to tell you the pin numbers.
I'll see what I can find, probably gonna be in the FSM or if someone chimes in with one to help a brotha out.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
So I found out what my problem was besides not having a downstream o2 Sensor witch I need to take care of... anyhow.
I had a P0300 code ended up being my Ignition Coil Packs, friggin cylinder 3 and 4 went out on me causing the car to idle like shit and sputter, also making the header glow beat red from fuel not being ignited.

So since I just did a motor swap an have a whole QG18 engine up for grabs and parts and what not, I decided to see how similar the Ignition Coils were from the QR's to the QG's and what do you know, they are the same damn thing.
Swapped in my QG packs, drove around for about 10-15 miles everything is fine and I started to smell burning plastic, an again the same damn thing was happening with the motor. Get back to my house to check it out, check all the harnesses to the coil packs, while its running, cylinder 2 went.. WTF??
So now I know these bitches are all gonna go, I just swap them all in and its running just fine.

Thanks for any information people have posted up about the codes and problems in the past, other wise I would have been lost.

So moral of the story, if you smell plastic shit burning and have some odd sounds an vibrations going on, get your ass over to a parts store ASAP!

Oh yea and QG Ignition Coil Packs work, so if you need to save a few bucks do it up!

-Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Update

Been putting it off and off for a while but finally put in the down stream o2 sensor, had to remove my 4 point lower tie bar and down pipe and modify it. Who ever modified it before never put a bung for the o2 so I had a buddy of mine help me weld in the bung took about 2 hours to remove drill weld and reassemble everything came out perfect no more codes.





Also put on Kuo's Garage Fender Washers I need moreee!
http://www.b15u.com/tdmi-kuos-garage/16284-clearance-sale-kuos-garage-fender-engine-bay-washers-20-99shipped-until-jan-31st.html





More goodies from Kuo's Garage 5 Lug Hubs! http://www.b15u.com/tdmi-kuos-garage/22880-tdmi-5-lug-conversion-kit-b15-n16-starts-104shipped.html





UNISA JECS Spacer and Sleeves with 95-99 Maxima Rear Hubs http://www.b15u.com/parts-sale/9288-fs-5-lug-spacer-sleeves.html



Now just gotta wait till spring to go 5 lug already have 350z rims just need some tires

-Drew
 

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Dude, I just got done reading your thread. You have major balls to go through with that swap. Lots of people said that it couldn't be done. I have mad respect for you. Gives us guys hope that we might be able to do a VQ swap down the road. Planning on doing some sort of how-to?
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Dude, I just got done reading your thread. You have major balls to go through with that swap. Lots of people said that it couldn't be done. I have mad respect for you. Gives us guys hope that we might be able to do a VQ swap down the road. Planning on doing some sort of how-to?
Thanks man, anything could be done if you put the right amount of time and research in to it. Fortunately I found a wreck and got everything I needed while making everything back but, yea definitely helps out the community knowing that not only this QR25 swap can be done but so can a VQ35 as well.
Yes in the future I will be doing an extensive how to for the QG18 to QR25 it's just gonna take a while lol but, it will have everything from A to Z what to look out for, tips for installing each part and even tools needed and required.

-Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #113
So the Joys of owning a Spec V never elude me, my Rear Main Seal was leaking so I had to do a tare down and rip that sucka out.





Oil blah


Checking out the clutch for oil contamination, looked good to go plus no oil was inside of the pressure plate just a nasty burn mark that was there from when I bought it. I believe it's from when when the flywheel bolts were lose when it was installed previously, not my doing.






Took the Flywheel off to find threadlocker in between the Flywheel and Crank awesome...yea that was my doing this time around, looks that when I applied the threadlocker I put to much and it came out of the crank and dried to fudge things up. How this also happens is if you have all the Flywheel bolts lose at one time. Now learning this my advice would be to do 3 bolts have them nice and snug in a triangle pattern then apply only a little on a q-tip and then insert in to the Crank.



WOOF like buzzes girlfriend!



Burt the remaining crap off with a blowtorch, new seal installed but here was a look before getting it real nice







All together now, no wait... the fucking Flywheel pressure plate bolt holes were pulling out material, at only 18lbs on the torque wrench wtf! Talk about shitty craftsmanship Fidanza! The bolts marked with sharpie were the worst then, 2 more were doing it as well. I said to myself fuck this I'm not dealing with problems later on, took it to my local machine shop and put some helicoils up in that bitch for all 9 holes lol. Anyhow came out awesome bolted it down to 20lbs reassembled everything back up in about 7 hours with it running.


Just to give some of you guys an idea at what it looked like when reassembling yea, pretty much rebuilt the damn thing again haha.

-Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Looking good drew, I am going to do 5 lug swap in few weeks.
Nice, I'm in the process of finding some nice wheels I have a few ideas. When you have the swap done post up some pics.

Nice, this car has come a long way. You get to pay 1.8 insurance on it? Lol.
Thanks Sammy, hey for all they know its a 1.8S on paper.
 

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looks great. I'm especially interested in doing the 5 lug swap, with the 350z wheels. wanted nismo's but perhaps with brembos, 5 lugs is a better choice for options. What has it run you on the items for the 5 lug swap thus far if i may ask you?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
looks great. I'm especially interested in doing the 5 lug swap, with the 350z wheels. wanted nismo's but perhaps with brembos, 5 lugs is a better choice for options. What has it run you on the items for the 5 lug swap thus far if i may ask you?
Thanks, my buddy is selling his 350Z wheels by the way if your interested. Yea the wheel options are endless with the 5 lug. All together for everything it cost me $500 on the dot for all my parts but, I need to buy new baring when getting the hubs pressed in. There about $35 bucks or so from my local machine shop.
 
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