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A little over 4 years ago risforroy made a great thread, on how to build a return fuel system. The pictures are no longer working, and I have found some things that can be improved upon. Roys thread has a lot of great info in it so I will link it on this thread as well.

risforroys DIY Return system http://www.b15u.com/threads/33525-how-to-DIY-return-fuel-system-setup-CHEAP-AND-EASY



For my system I wanted to go -6 SS braided for my feed and return and I wanted to use AN fittings the entire way.

I am not going to tell you every fitting you need because depending on you placement of components it my require some different parts. I drew a simple plan of my system on paper and wrote in where each fitting goes and what kind I needed. It made ordering them much easier.

My lines run feed from tank - filter - feed side of rail - return side of rail - FPR - return fitting on tank.

Some of the fittings that I got. I also purchased 20' of -6 SS Braided line
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Some people like to cheat and use the stock feed nipple that comes out of the fuel pump canister. I highly recommend not doing that. The feed hole is smaller then the inside diameter of the nipple. Its only a little bit larger then the ink tube in a ball point pen. Unfortunately I dont have any photos showing this but trust me its way to small. Its worth the extra few bucks and extra time to drill it out and replace it with a -6 fitting. When you run a external FPR you can remove that entire regulator assembly from the canister. It frees up tons of space. My pump is attached directly to my feed line with the small piece of hose. To keep things simple I used Blue/Red fittings for feed and Black for return. I used Russell 661253 for my return fitting and used Russell 660820 for my feed. I didnt use a bulk head fitting for the feed because I felt it would force the fuel pump to sit too low by the time the bulkhead, barb fitting and fuel hose was installed. So I got a 1/4" npt fitting with a 5/16" barb, attached about 4" or 5" of fuel line to that then attached the pump. The extra fitting in the middle is a plug. I accidentally drilled a hole in the wrong spot
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I ran both my fuel lines the same way as the stock line was ran. After removing the stock line they both fit with little modification
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They go up behind the subframe and into the engine bay.

From there I run a serviceable fuel filter Russell 650133

You can see how I mounted my filter and FPR. This is not the only spot you can mount this, its up to you
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I made a short lead that ran from the filter to the feed of the rail. It makes accessing the rail or the filter very easy.

For the rail there are not a bunch of premade options. I only found a JGY rail @$135 AEM rail @$125 and The Treadstone Stealth rail @$120. I choose the Treadstone rail because of the design allowing use of either -8 or -6 boss fittings. It also has the the largest internal bore at just over .75"
You can also have a welder drill and weld fittings on the stock rail and use that. That will be the cheapest option.
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This one is when I had a modded stock rail but its a good photo of the fuel line routing
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The next part is the line that will run from the rail to the FPR
There are plenty of brands that make decent FPRs and plenty that make shitty ones. IMO its not a part that I want to go cheap on. I choose an Aeromotive 13129. Its compact and flows more than I will ever need. I just added a gauge and the proper fittings
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The return line will run from the FPR back to the tank.



Installing Fuel Pump Rewire Kit

This mod is an absolute must IMO.

I purchased the STM pump rewire kit http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_fuel_pump_rewire_kit.htm

It uses 10awg feed and ground wire, 30amp fuse and relay. Which is more then enough for any fuel pump you will run. This rewire kit works by cutting the stock fuel pump feed wire, running that to the signal input on a relay. The relay has a 10awg wire that runs directly to the battery, directly to ground and then directly to the fuel pump. The fuel pumps ground wire is also replaced. If you have the battery in the trunk this is an easy job if not you will have to run some wire. The benefit of this mod is that you are running a heavy gauge wire that will handle the extra amperage draw from higher power pumps, and it will also have less of a voltage drop when under heavy loads since its coming directly from the battery. I went the extra mile and removed the pins from the connector and soldered the wires. All the connections are soldered and finished with heat shrink.
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I have considered doing something like this, but wonder if there is a way, to add a pressure switch, somewhere in the line, so that if fuel pressure drops below a safe threshold, it would cut the power to the coils?
Main reason: being boosted, if the fuel pump happened to fail during a boost run, you could grenade your engine before you even knew you had a problem. I am sure there are pressure switched out there that could be fit in the system somewhere, and I would have to figure where to tap into the harness to splice the wires...
 

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Great write up. I plan on doing this at some point.

I was unaware of the rewire. You're saying the purpose of the rewire is to re-gauge the wire to handle a bigger pump draw, and also to relocate a relay thats also compatible with the pumps draw, all being a sort of seperate system that still runs with the key on engine off?
 
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Great write up. I plan on doing this at some point.

I was unaware of the rewire. You're saying the purpose of the rewire is to re-gauge the wire to handle a bigger pump draw, and also to relocate a relay thats also compatible with the pumps draw, all being a sort of seperate system that still runs with the key on engine off?

Yes kind of. Its a separate system for voltage draw, relay and ground. But it uses the factory pump power wire as the signal wire to the relay. It works exactly the same way as a factory pump would. turns on/off and primes just like stock
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You dont relocate the factory relay, that stays in place and works like normal. You install a new 30 amp one
 

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good write up !! I want to try this out I have a 2j plenum would the same treadstone rail work with my setup ?:thinking:
 

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I have considered doing something like this, but wonder if there is a way, to add a pressure switch, somewhere in the line, so that if fuel pressure drops below a safe threshold, it would cut the power to the coils?
Main reason: being boosted, if the fuel pump happened to fail during a boost run, you could grenade your engine before you even knew you had a problem. I am sure there are pressure switched out there that could be fit in the system somewhere, and I would have to figure where to tap into the harness to splice the wires...
there was a fuel cutoff safety switch included with my nitrous kit

i did not use it,
found it was the most common point of failure.



and for boost is it necessary or advantageous, to run a boost referenced fpr
like this
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/512-504-5/10002/-1

also not sure at present hp that i need a return system

i'm thinking 450hp and less, stock steel line under the car may be adequate for a feed line








and i can do this in steps

1st, most important, upgrade the wiring,
if using an upgraded pump in the stock canister setup
@shanover, could do at the same time you move the battery to the trunk

for cosmetics and abrasion resistance
use orig steel line entering engine compartment
capped by a fuel line to AN adapter
http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-OE-Fuel-Line-EFI-Quick-Connect-Fittings/2882659/10002/-1

then, AN braided line to treadstone fuel rail just to start
 
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