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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I guess this is as good a place as any to post this. Many of you know that I went to 2J on Monday, 11/14/2016 to get an updated cam phaser installed. Due to the bolt being locked down on my own cam, I could not get it off to disassemble, not even chucking the cam up in a vice and hitting it with a 1/2" impact gun. However, 2J generously gave me an old phaser that they had replaced to bring home with me to play with. It has been discovered (by 2J) that the same plant that makes our cam phasers makes them for Honda as well. Honda seen fit to issue a recall on theirs, Nissan did not. What happens, especially in a high horsepower build, is the cam phaser is much more likely to fail. This causes timing chain rattle at startup, and can lead to timing chain stretch @yogi b! I have been cranking my engine to build up oil pressure before I start since I picked up my car from 2J in October, just to avoid the rattle... I should also say, that with my phaser, I could twist the cam timing by hand, without much effort. the one I took apart was no where near that bad. anyway, on to the pics!

The cam phaser itself:
20161116_163831.jpg
20161116_163848.jpg

step one in disassembly, screws removed, top lifted off, you can see the orangish spring guide on the upper side of the main body:
20161116_163943.jpg
Spring guide removed:
20161116_164007.jpg

Outer shell lifted off, some of the vanes stuck to the shell, others fell out:
20161116_164138.jpg
20161116_164142.jpg

the vanes with their springs, the springs set behind the vanes to press them against the hub and shell, to promote a good seal:
20161116_164232.jpg

wear marks from the vanes against the hub
20161116_164304.jpg
20161116_164312.jpg

Bottom piece:
20161116_164346.jpg
20161116_164353.jpg

Locking pin, that should engage the bottom hub detent when oil pressure is lost:
20161116_164358.jpg

All the parts and pieces:
20161116_164457.jpg

More wear marks, and timing gear stop pin
20161116_164614.jpg

Relationship of hub, oil released stop pin, and base, oil enters the base and lifts the stop pin out so the cam phaser can change the cam timing:
20161116_165652.jpg
20161116_165737.jpg

Icky stuff:
20161116_164642.jpg
20161116_164648.jpg

More icky stuff:
20161116_164731.jpg
20161116_164735.jpg

What can be determined from this, is basically any time you get your engine built, you need to add the cost of the cam phaser into the build. at $204.00 from 2J, I would consider it cheap insurance on a build that is already costing you thousands of dollars. and as Yogi can attest, possibly save you hundreds more in timing chain replacements!

I should add: the phaser works by directing oil to the locking pin, lifting it, and then to one side of the hub to advance cam timing by a few degrees, or the other side to retard it. All done by the ECU so we dont have to worry about it. what is bad, is when the locking pin gets stopped up and wont lock, and the oil drains out of the phaser, allowing the chain to basically bounce back and forth during engine startup until oil pressure is built up.
 

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I'm sorry that I can't add anything informative to this thread because I'm like "WHAT THE FUC?!?!?!? :bigeyes:"
 

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Hmm interesting
 

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I did this a long time ago on a forum that has long past, I can't even remember the name of it but I did it with a different intent.

So back in the MSV days, everyone was all jelly cause Nismo released a cam phaser set for the VQ to give it a couple of extra degrees, long story short, I did the same exploded view as Shaneover but I trimmed the pin/stopper on the cam gear itself to allow the phaser to turn all the way. Though I do regret I never tried it since I could never figure out what to torque the bolts to.

I can provide my images in another thread if need be to show what I did and not to thread jack, I think I did this in either '07 or '09.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did this a long time ago on a forum that has long past, I can't even remember the name of it but I did it with a different intent.

So back in the MSV days, everyone was all jelly cause Nismo released a cam phaser set for the VQ to give it a couple of extra degrees, long story short, I did the same exploded view as Shaneover but I trimmed the pin/stopper on the cam gear itself to allow the phaser to turn all the way. Though I do regret I never tried it since I could never figure out what to torque the bolts to.

I can provide my images in another thread if need be to show what I did and not to thread jack, I think I did this in either '07 or '09.
its all good if you wish to add them here, I understand what you are saying about removing/filing the stop pin, it would give you slightly more movement for the phaser, on my disassembly, and reassembly, it didnt look like you could gain much, maybe 1/2* of movement at most, clearances are pretty tight in there. The phaser for the VQ may be different tho, and allow more advance than the QR unit does. with the inner hub against the stop pin, there MAY have been 1/32 of movement that could be had without the stop pin. If I remember, I will verify this when I get home from work, I reassembled the unit, but left the screws loose. BTW, if you are interested in trying it still, you can look up metric torque tables for fasteners based on size...
tq table.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know if I missed it but after replacing the phaser did your cold starts improve ??

Btw great post
very much so! all week I have started my car without pre oiling and I have had zero chain rattle. I was just starting to get it after I picked up my car from 2J in october, I highly recommend this part, 2J did prime it for the first startup, but I havent had to since.
 

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its all good if you wish to add them here, I understand what you are saying about removing/filing the stop pin, it would give you slightly more movement for the phaser, on my disassembly, and reassembly, it didnt look like you could gain much, maybe 1/2* of movement at most, clearances are pretty tight in there. The phaser for the VQ may be different tho, and allow more advance than the QR unit does. with the inner hub against the stop pin, there MAY have been 1/32 of movement that could be had without the stop pin. If I remember, I will verify this when I get home from work, I reassembled the unit, but left the screws loose. BTW, if you are interested in trying it still, you can look up metric torque tables for fasteners based on size...
View attachment 105594
That is a table I haven't seen before...me likes...
I will have to look but I don't remember seeing any markings indicated on the bolt and my lack of knowledge discerning the differences between metals class is blah. I didn't have a vice or a cut/spare cam chain at the time.

By the way, when I tried to measure it, I think it was close to 5*-10*(don't quote me, it was a long time ago) but as all I had was a map protractor at the time I it was difficult for me to measure and I didn't have time to get an accurate measurement of how many degrees it was.
 

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