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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
yup ive still got the safc still hooked up. ive tried the 630's, some 580's, and 440's all on both stock ecu and jwt ecu. only change is how severe the symptoms are especially at cold startups. i think its somewhat flooding on cold starts but safc adjustments just dont seem to affect initial startup at all. jwt says that ecu doesnt even read maf voltage during initial startup. today it starting missing on even a warm start and it was definately one cylinder not firing rather than the random missing and coughing. i just dont understand why its so consistant on startup but goes away. if there is a miss while driving i just dont notice it but then again i havent even had her at full throttle in months :( all the grandma driving might be hiding issues while driving i suppose.

coil wires are geting a complete overhaul tonight, ive been through them all already but this time i will be removing all the pins, cutting wires back and re soldering. local vq swap buddy of mine dropped off his sack 'o' left over qr harness, its dissasembled but nicely labled and complete from connectors to ecu pins so my backup plan is to make my own coil subharness and just run that to the ecu. doesnt actually look that difficult, the coils and intake cam solenoid share a 12v pin and ground and everything else is individual pins so i can make a subharness just for those and run it seperate from the main harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
good news bad news... finally found what has been causing all my recent problems! but its the swimming pool i found in cylinder 3 this morning :facepalm:

appears to be mostly coolant and since the dry compression check was good i think its just a head gasket job to fix it. i think it was just the bigger injectors making the symptoms more apparent but its probably been a slowly growing problem for awhile now.
 

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Damn that sucks, got me worried some as I had idle issues with my jwt reflash that I never figured out. Assumed it was the tune after I popped the main fuse four times from grounding the alternator with a broken case. Leakdown and compression test happening this week on my motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
well never really got to the bottom of this, spent the day at the tuners yesterday and they say, on my car at least, its just a shit tune :dunno:

they ended up dropping my fuel pressure to 40psi, pulling the extra 2* of timing the cipher would allow, dropped my boost down to 9psi (i was aiming for 11-12) and still have to pull on average 10% with the safc just to get a mid 10 afr's. they've always said my motor is too knock sensitive so they are leaving my tune a little rich.

on this dyno last year with my strait safc tune @ 7psi i got 176whp and yesterday with the reflash/9psi/3" exhaust i got 226whp so at least it was a move in the right direction. its a low reading dyno and hard to compare with other results but the average stock wrx cant break 200 on this dyno, i was able to get 13.9 in the 1/4mile with 176whp so im a little exited to go hit the track at 226whp :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
oh ya, they said if they could have full control of the timing they could have leaned things out and made some more power, maybe some water/meth but that would make me richer and even more dependant on the safc, which is not ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
so on this same exact same dyno through the years:

bolted/cams/no tune- 140hp/145t
same day after safc tune- 145hp/147t
same day on an 85 shot- 196hp/216t (nos and torque are best buddies :D)
years later with turbo/440's/safc tune- 176hp/184t
yesterday with 630's/shit reflash/rich tune/3" exhaust- 226hp/223t

even more exited about hitting the track now, just talked to my buddy and his stock 06 wrx with full 3" exhaust made 178 on this dyno so my 226 aint looking as bad. exactly why we call this particular dyno "the dream killer" :p
 

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So it's been a long time since I've posted an update....I've been busy!

So I replaced all the inter cooler pipes with a new kit from Treadstone and replaced all the vacuum lines. I broke down with the car recently and was excited to find a short in the engine harness...cam position sensor to be exact. I was luck enough that my father had an extra car that I could use so I was able to take my time. I unwrapped the entire harness to check for any other shorts. Everything else looked good visually. I then got the handy dandy FSM out and checked out the entire harness and sensors for continuity and voltages. Everything checked out perfectly.

I then decided to start taking out all variables. When I installed the JWT flashed ecu, I installed Deka injectors and the 2J intake manifold. I started by installing the stock intake manifold and leaving in the injectors. I was excited when the car started right up and idled. It didn't sound right, but it seemed like the right direction. I then noticed that I didn't plug the MAF back in. I cleared the code and pluged the MAF back in and it returned to the same crap.

Today I put the stock ecu in along with the 440cc injectors to bring the car back to the way it was and it starts right up! No pressing the gas pedal, perfect idle, and no stalling!

So I sent Ben an email and copied @joe@2jracing to ask where do we go from here. It's either the tune or the injectors....my bet is the tune. I'll update this when I hear back from Ben or Joe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
when my car was on the dyno the tuners said they think it is the tune also. never have they come accross a jwt tune so bad that it wouldnt boost, normally they just tweak the tune and clean it up a tad.

in order to boost they ended up dropping my fuel pressure down to 40psi and still had to make corrections with the safc. corrections were as much as -8% at 40psi fuel pressure. at oem 52psi fuel pressure corrections were up to -17%. all of this just to get mid/high 10 afr's and they wont lean it out any more cause they could start to hear knock. we also retarded the timing the maximum 2 degrees that the cipher cable would allow.

i took a break for a while cause i was just about ready to burn this dam car to the ground but i think my next step is to put oem ecu with oem injectors back in and just stay outta boost, see if that fixes the last of the issues. if so jwt offered to flow check the injectors, revert my ecu back to stock and reflash another ecu for me.
 

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Ben mentioned you in his email to me...I think. He said to note that Rob found out his problem was due to a leaking head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
haha, i havent had the heart to tell ben it didnt work yet. unfortunately the headgasket job did fix some of my problems but not all of them. i still need to give it some throttle during cold starts, still cant boost at oem fuel pressure without major safc corrections, still get p0300's every other day, and still wont idle at anything below 950rpm's. when monitoring my stft's at idle you can watch the ecu constantly add more fuel untill it maxes out at +25% then it jumps back down to 0%, car goes lean and almost stalls, then the cycle repeats itself again and again. fuel trims just never stabilize.

took it to the track after my dyno tune and thats where i realized after letting of the throttle to shift afr's dive down deep rich and after the gear change when i step on it again the car stumbles and bogs down for a few seconds. started paying attention during normal city driving and noticed the same thing, after shifting i cant give it more than 1/3 throttle or it will bog down rich. bov is recirculated and all setup correct so its not that.
 

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Please tell him!!!!

He needs to know something is wrong. He thinks you're all good now and that I probably have a bad head gasket too because we have similar problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
yah ill let him know, gonna send him the printout of my afr's and pencil in the safc corrections as well. its been long enough, time to figure this out once and for all. scary thought also is the tuners were wondering if the shit tune coulda cause my head gasket failure in the first place, they said my car was being very knock sensitive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 · (Edited)
this may sound crazy but since jwt needs to know if its a nats or non-nats ecu doesnt that mean they could accidentally reflash for the wrong one?

my backup ecu is non nats while mine is nats so i know which pins are different. one thing thats on my mind is the cam and crank sensors swap exact positions between the two ecu's, we've seen cars run (not well, but run) with a missing crank signal plate and more recent with the crank sensor connector plugged into the power steering sensor. now would there be modifications done during the reflash that deal with the cam/crank sensors? could the accidental non-nats reflash performed on a nats ecu possibly switch around which pins are cam/crank sensors?

seems far fetched but im gonna try swapping those pins on my ecu harness again. and yes ive triple checked that i didnt accidently mix up those pins myself during the install :p
 

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I received this interesting bit of info from Ben yeterday:

"This program was developed only with the MAF sensor installed on the inlet side of the turbo and not blow through (Like the original turbonetics and current Treadstone kits). If the MAF is not installed on the inlet of the turbo (Min 18" distance between back of MAF and inlet of turbo) and valve cover breather hose is not routed back to the pipe between the MAF and turbo inlet you may have problems."

So this is two strikes against my setup. I have the treadstone kit and I have my valve cover breather routed to a catch can. I will try to modify my set up to match these requirements and see how the car reacts (Fingers crossed!). I'll report back later....
 

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I received this interesting bit of info from Ben yeterday:

"This program was developed only with the MAF sensor installed on the inlet side of the turbo and not blow through (Like the original turbonetics and current Treadstone kits). If the MAF is not installed on the inlet of the turbo (Min 18" distance between back of MAF and inlet of turbo) and valve cover breather hose is not routed back to the pipe between the MAF and turbo inlet you may have problems."

So this is two strikes against my setup. I have the treadstone kit and I have my valve cover breather routed to a catch can. I will try to modify my set up to match these requirements and see how the car reacts (Fingers crossed!). I'll report back later....


Gary, the Turbonetics reflash was designed in the same way, draw thru, however, a shit ton of us have been using it for blow thru setups with ZERO problems.



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