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The gen2 headgasket is better and does replace the first gen gasket. There is an oil passage in the older gasket that the newer version does not have. I used a large drill bit to open that passage up. Others have just left the passage closed, I believe.
can we still use the "07" kit..like the valve cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, etc? What about a GEN 2 (07+) Head?
 

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Only the headgasket will fit the first gen QR. The head itself and valve cover are different. Not sure about the IM gasket.
Gotcha...would it be wiser to acquire another head to have machined and finished to swap...this write up just showed the head gasket being the culprit...I would hate to do all this work and have to take it back off again.
My compression test was 185-165-170-185...according to the FSM just the head gasket...I just hate doing full work 2x
 

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Norberto, if you can afford the car to be down, I would just reuse the head (have it checked out first and change the valve stem seals at a minimum) and use either an AJUSA or the Cometic that 2J is selling since you're boosted. You could get away by just using the 02-06 HG if you already have one, but if not you could use the 07+.
 

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Norberto, if you can afford the car to be down, I would just reuse the head (have it checked out first and change the valve stem seals at a minimum) and use either an AJUSA or the Cometic that 2J is selling since you're boosted. You could get away by just using the 02-06 HG if you already have one, but if not you could use the 07+.
I'm only pushing 8lbs, nothing too radical. I was going to go with the 07 B16 Headgasket from Beck/Arnley (0352148). It's my DD, so I'm too keen on having really flashy parts until this becomes my "weekend" car where I can afford to leave it sit for ever. It's my DD, I do have a friend loaning me their van this weekend for a few weeks, so I was going to take the head to my local machine shop to have it checked along with the valves.
How can one verify the pistons are bad? I'm blaming my oil leak to blow by and the incorrect PCV setup I had
 

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You dont want to do this job more than once, I would just get a good head gasket now and be done with it. I got my ajusa on ebay for $85 shipped to canada and it makes oem gaskets look like tinfoil imo. Even if the 2nd gen gaskets are better than the 1st gen they were still never intended to see boost no matter what the psi.

One more tip, dont let your dunken buddy flip your head over and scatter the lifter buckets all over the floor either. Setting valve lash from scratch sucks balls.
 

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So like people are claiming doing this job in 4-5 hrs. That easy? Only if no helicoils needed, no upside downed'd valvetrains (lol), no dropped bolts down the timing cover,.. I sware to god let that shit happen to me.

Never worked on this motor internally but if I were to do the HG for the first time. Say hypothetically I already had a head to swap in already so we are skipping the step of sending it out and/or cleaning it up. Be working in a shop, not in front of my house. Not rushing but making good time, 5-6 hrs w/ plenum?
 

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You dont want to do this job more than once, I would just get a good head gasket now and be done with it. I got my ajusa on ebay for $85 shipped to canada and it makes oem gaskets look like tinfoil imo. Even if the 2nd gen gaskets are better than the 1st gen they were still never intended to see boost no matter what the psi.

One more tip, dont let your dunken buddy flip your head over and scatter the lifter buckets all over the floor either. Setting valve lash from scratch sucks balls.
I went ahead and ordered the AJUSA headgasket (10145500), for under $60 shipped via CarId, not too bad :D. Thanks for the heads up! Now I just need to find the ARP Head stud part numbers :/
 

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You dont want to do this job more than once, I would just get a good head gasket now and be done with it. I got my ajusa on ebay for $85 shipped to canada and it makes oem gaskets look like tinfoil imo. Even if the 2nd gen gaskets are better than the 1st gen they were still never intended to see boost no matter what the psi.

One more tip, dont let your dunken buddy flip your head over and scatter the lifter buckets all over the floor either. Setting valve lash from scratch sucks balls.
So essentially, DONT turn the head upside down correct? I went ahead and ordered some ARP head studs in an effort to overbuild the motor
 

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Yah dont flip it over, once cams are removed its only gravity holding the buckets in. I use a magnet to pull them out one by one, noting the location and bucket thickness as I go.

You might want to check the valve lash clearances first, if any are out of spec this will give you more time to order/find a new one. Still have to check again after reinstalling cams though as theres no guarantee all the clearances will be the same, especially if you send the head to the machine shop or mess with valves.
 

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Why doesn't anyone have on either this write OR the FSM the ONE bolt that is HIDDEN from the Timing Chain Cover and the Cylinder Head Block???
 

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You mean that 1st cam cap? It is in the fsm...
I'm talking about this middle bolt that is tucked away from plain sight...I didn't see it until I stuck my finger in there since my head didn't want to come off...I was like "something is still holding, what could it be?"
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Gear Transmission part
Auto part Text Diagram Design
 

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It is in the fsm....the way they portray it CAN be confusing for some.
Can you reference the page number? If you look at how they want you to take off the head, it states to take off the lower oil pan, and the timing chain cover....something that is not needed honestly.
It's just so obvious
 
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