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Discussion Starter #1
I searched and read some of the other problems but i'm not sure if they're the same as what I have going on. Thanks in advance.

So normally the clutch pedal has pressure from the very top to the very bottom when you're pressing on it. So... I'll try to illustrate with words...

Floor --------------------------------------------------------------- Clutch Pedal
(<-------------pressure throughout-------------------->)
(grabs in middle)

Now while driving, out of nowhere, the pedal becomes 'loose' and doesn't have ANY pressure from to the top to almost near the bottom (floor), and there's VERY little pressure to engage/disengage the clutch making it really hard to drive. I literally have about 2 inches of pressure to engage/disengage into gear. Sometimes out of nowhere while driving it'll reset itself to normal or it'll reset itself after being turned off and left off for a while.

Floor --------------------------------------------------------------- Clutch Pedal
(pressure) (<-----flimsy, loose, no pressure-------->)
( grabs )

Any ideas?
 

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33 Posts
Change the fluid to DOT 4 or DOT 5 brotha.
This is a very common problem with Specs and it has to do with the fluid getting too hot causing clutch fade.
 

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salve cylinder will b most likely ur issue........it has nothign to do with the fluid type...if it does then u usually have air in the system and need to bleed it.....and refill it
 

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salve cylinder will b most likely ur issue........it has nothign to do with the fluid type...if it does then u usually have air in the system and need to bleed it.....and refill it

I have to respectfully disagree with you my man.

Do yourself a favor, change the fluid out, its a cheap and easy starting point then rather going in head first to a slave cylinder....
 

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I have to respectfully disagree with you my man.

Do yourself a favor, change the fluid out, its a cheap and easy starting point then rather going in head first to a slave cylinder....

lol ok..i do this for a living changing this is a common issue...to dot 5 or 4 isnt needed, it just a plus to use dot 4 and 5 if u have big brake all way around and high performance clutch..........u can bleed it and refill bak to dot 3....or change the slave cylinder
 

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I respectfully disagree with both of you..... this is a common issue with all Spec-Vs and Maxima 6spds, see it all the time at work, and just fixed mine, and my co-workers Spec-V, you are correct that it happened when the fluid gets too hot, but usually that happens on warm/hot days like we've been having lately, it's your clutch master cylinder, they are known for this issue, the piston in the master cylinder doesn't react properly when the fluid gets warm and gives that iffy pedal, Nissan has a superseded part number to fix that issue, the new part number is 30610-5M00A and if I remember correctly it should be relatively cheaper than some aftermarket ones that I looked for
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah it has only happened now that the weather has gotten warmer

and i have recently changed to the brembo 4piston brakes

how hard is it to change the clutch master cylinder?
 

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yeah it has only happened now that the weather has gotten warmer

and i have recently changed to the brembo 4piston brakes

how hard is it to change the clutch master cylinder?
well the brakes won't affect your clutch master, the clutch master is pretty simple, it's has two studs on the new unit, the clutch line under the hood, and on the inside of the firewall it attached to the pedal with a pin and 2 nuts, take the pin off, CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE IT, take the two nuts off, under the hood, carfeul with the lines you do not want to get brake fluid on your paint, it's pretty straight forward, the Nissan clutch master always comes pre-adjusted, the after market ones you usually have to adjust which can be a big pain in the ass, after your done bolting everything back up, make sure you have plenty of fluid and start bleeding the system, till your clutch feels normal, might actually feel a little stiffer than before if you got the Nissan part because of the new style piston inside the superseded part
 

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I agree with Peter...
 

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not to hijack the thread but i just put a 2j stage 2 in and im having the same problem. Now i wasnt having this problem before i puth the clutch in so do you recomend trying to bleed it out first or just change it since it has a reputation for going bad? i mean bleeding it obviously is the first step because it doesnt cost anything but knowing the part to be defective would it be wise to just throw a new one on?
 

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From someone with the same clutch...

Get a new oem nissan clutch master cylinder and a new oem nissan clutch slave cylinder and save yourself the time.

I bought an aftermarket master brand new and it failed within two weeks of being paired up with this clutch. The stage 2 puts more pressure on the hydraulic system so its always goo to replace these two essential parts with the clutch change. The oem master i installed hasnt failed yet and its been on for months
 

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Just a heads up just in case someone reads the whole thing, DON'T USE DOT 5, use DOT 5.1 if you want to get a higher boiling point brake fluid. DOT 5 is a different compound and isn't really meant for our system. Can you use it yes but there are issues that I don't remember right now.
 

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There are a few things it could be. It's not JUST the fluid, you have a different issue (new fluid will help though). I had similar problems, and it turned out to just be the stock rubber line was expanding in high heat and gave me a flimsy pedal after 30 min of city driving. A stainless steel line is probably less than $40. I would start there.

If it still doesn't fix the problem, it can be the slave cylinder, or the master cylinder. Both would cause similar issues. Without a visual of a leak or something, I would just replace one at a time (the cheaper first?). I think the slave is cheaper. All would be good items to change out on a high mileage car though, so you can call this maintenance.



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he has covered it all^

though in my experience even the stainless steel line needs heat shielding

with the stainless line, new master, slave and fluid

i still had little clutch after an hour in the staging lanes, creeping forward 6 ft at a time [95* outside]
about the same as rush hour traffic in atl
imo
 

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My buddy has an 04 sentra type R spec V, I was considering buying but the clutch doesnt engage until you sre almost off the pedal. Not so sure this is normal. 160,000 miles. Doesnt slip either.
 
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