[JibbelSandwich]

This noise can be felt through the pedal. It doesn't happen all the time and usually doesn't happen at first start up and first few minutes of driving. I don't think weather affects it since it happens when it is cold and hot.

The video was when the car was off after about 30 minutes of driving. Any ideas? I bled it a little white ago since it had a lot of air in it and the problem seemed to go away for a little bit but not sure if it was directly related to bleeding it since it isn't consistent.

 

[CrickiKaze]

I'll have to wait till I can get to a point to hear the video.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Bump

 

[iicbh]

Could be the tack welds. These pedals had an updated and hardness welded to beef up the housing. I replaced mine about a yr ago. Nissan sells the pedal for about $120.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Is there a way to confirm if that is what's causing the noise?

 

[CrickiKaze]

Forgot about this, if it happens after the car is warmed up then heat is being transferred to the fluid and to the cylinders, i would change/flush the fluid first with a dot 4.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Forgot about this, if it happens after the car is warmed up then heat is being transferred to the fluid and to the cylinders, i would change/flush the fluid first with a dot 4.

When I bled it, I flushed it and swapped to Motul RBF600. It seemed like it went away after I did that but it came back fairly soon after.

 

[Big Lettuce]

Good day to all readers I type please just remove and replace the clutch master cylinder and then add the 2J-Racing Trucite bushing kit and 2J-Racing short throw shifter also the 2J-Racing S/S braided clutch line all sold on the 2J-Racing website 2J Racing Shop

As far as the clutch pedal here below is a URL to replace that part!

Fits Nissan Sentra 2000-2006 l4 GAS Clutch Master Cylinder Nabco 306105M007 | eBay

<p>Nabco 306105M007 <br>Clutch Master Cylinder <br>Nissan Sentra 2000-2006 l4 GAS </p> <p>New - Nabco</p> <p>306105M007 / 30610 5M007 Nabco / 55538021330 / 555 38021 330 / 30610 5M007</p> <p>Item Sells only ONE part, picture shows different angles.<br>OE / OES supplier</p>.

www.ebay.com

 

[JibbelSandwich]

So if I were to replace the master cylinder and clutch line, I might as well replace the slave cylinder too. It looks like Exedy makes some oe replacements for the master and slave and look relatively cheap in price.
Also, I put rbf600 in my clutch since that is what is in my other car but that's because the brake and clutch share the same reservoir. I'm thinking it is probably overkill for the clutch. What dot4 do you guys recommend for the clutch for the spec?
And @Big Lettuce I already have the STS and bushings

 

[CrickiKaze]

I was trying to think of a solution but don't throw parts at it as was suggested for reasons below:

You can rebuild the master, but the diaphragm could be blown and that could be causing the popping as it acts like a damper of sorts and may be causing the plunger to knock against the push rod. That could be deleted first and replaced with a short bolt.

Slave rarely if ever goes bad and a rebuild kit is cheaper but yours is not bad. My slave for instance got rebuilt and the internals was still good as I was chasing down a clutch issue.

Assuming you have the oe rubber line it wouldn't be a bad idea to go to a ss line but that's not going to solve the issue.


Now it really could be just the master cylinder as a whole but if you have somebody help you look for the noise in the engine bay you might have a better answer as I suspect it would be hard clearly in there. Could also be the mount head s worn area on it and a little grease may help with the noise.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

I was trying to think of a solution but don't throw parts at it as was suggested for reasons below:

You can rebuild the master, but the diaphragm could be blown and that could be causing the popping as it acts like a damper of sorts and may be causing the plunger to knock against the push rod. That could be deleted first and replaced with a short bolt.

Slave rarely if ever goes bad and a rebuild kit is cheaper but yours is not bad. My slave for instance got rebuilt and the internals was still good as I was chasing down a clutch issue.

Assuming you have the oe rubber line it wouldn't be a bad idea to go to a ss line but that's not going to solve the issue.


Now it really could be just the master cylinder as a whole but if you have somebody help you look for the noise in the engine bay you might have a better answer as I suspect it would be hard clearly in there. Could also be the mount head s worn area on it and a little grease may help with the noise.

How much of a difference in pedal feel is there after deleting the diaphragm? Found this thread for the bolt size and rebuild part numbers

Clutch master and slave kits

I'll post this here as well, since in other threads, the information tends to get burried Part numbers for the clutch master and slave cylinder rebuild. and for those doing the diaphram delete, while they have the clutch master cylinder out, I purchassed an oil drain plug, with thread size...

www.b15u.com

As for the ss line, I always figure it's a good time to upgrade when things are getting fixed/replaced.

Also, I have the JWT clutch and flywheel (installed already when car was purchased). It chatters at idle unless I press the clutch and comes back when I let go again. I assumed this was normal because of the single mass flywheel and it does it on my Genesis with an aftermarket clutch/flywheel. But reading around it seems like people are saying it shouldn't chatter and that the tob is bad. Wanted to see your opinion on that too.

 

[CrickiKaze]

Didn't spend much time with a deleted diaphragm master and don't remember, other people claimed they noticed a difference.

Do you know what kind of friction disk it is, chatter could be from wear due to the type of disk... or the TB is going out, could be several things to include the pressure plate.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Okay I'll have to listen to it from the engine bay first before I take out the master. If I rebuild it and delete the diaphragm I'll probably rebuild the slave too since I'm gonna be in there anyways.

Not sure, I think it is the JWT heavy duty clutch on 2J and the JWT 12lb flywheel based on what the previous owner said.

I'm gonna try to get another video from the engine bay and upload it too

 

[Big Lettuce]

There are always mods I have never heard of... Diaphragm Delete omfg wth is that I ponder to myself and I think will it work without a diaphragm? Can a fish 🐠 work without water 💦 idunnoh I’ve never seen them swimming down the street so I cannot answer that but...

Eye 👁 still just type replace the Master and 🎸 rock -&- roll 🎸 on plus added new 2J-Racing clutch fluid line and new Slave too with fresh synthetic fluid the old 2005 is coming along nicely but yeah just replace that Master - Line - Slave combo and float on!!!

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Okay so I had my gf press the clutch in after it was warmed up so I could listen and the popping sounds like it is coming from the slave cylinder, so I think I will rebuild that and I might as well do the master too.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Well, I finally got around to rebuilding the slave and master and also throwing on a ss line. It's still making the sound
I saw someone with an s2000 on youtube grease the outer end of the slave rod which I thought about doing but didn't for some reason. I'll have to try that as well as spraying some lithium grease on the spring by the pedal.

Any other ideas??

 

[Big Lettuce]

If time permits and budget of course respectfully, I’ve always said (in this case typed) just replace all of the parts outright with BNIB known quality parts.

And although BNIB is not always The-Ansa but by this way the isolation of problems can be simplified with again the Hope assume belief the BNIB parts are quality made and if reman they are quality reman.

I wonder if the fluid is slightly retracting the piston when the clutch pedal comes back up and the sound you hear is when the fluid pressurization happens by pressing the pedal and the “TING” sound is the piston inside of the cylinder striking the rod behind the boot ...

Ask your wife if she can pump the pedal again you you place your finger on the slave cylinder and touch it. If something in there is tapping you’ll be able to feel it also and know that is the problem....

 

[JibbelSandwich]

It's definitely not the slave or master. I'm pretty sure it's the throwout bearing or the retainer clip.

I got the rebuild kit for slave and master and a ss line. I greased up everything that everyone says to grease up to get rid of squeaking (slave cylinder rod end, clutch spring inside cabin, and the end of the clutch fork).

After all of that it definitely feels much smoother and less squeaky but the popping is still there. I feel the popping on the fork and not the slave.

So I might just deal with it until I get a new clutch. I don't know how many miles are on this clutch. It's the JWT heavy duty and lightweight flywheel and was installed by the previous owner. I'm not sure if they put in a new TOB when they put it in too.

 

[JibbelSandwich]

Well, for any future readers of this thread, I got this sorted out. Turns out my TOB was completely busted and broke apart causing a piece to bounce around and scratch up the flywheel and pressure plate.

I ended up replacing the TOB, clutch and flywheel (2JR Stage 1 with lightweight flywheel), clutch fork and spring, rear main and driveshaft seals and flywheel bolts.

Clutch feels 1000 times better now and no more popping. Can't wait until it's broken in!