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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

i am new here. I have 2000 Sentra with qg16 engine . Recently the engine started to overheat due to head gasket failure. So I replaced the head gasket and replaced the timing tensioner and chain. I start the car but it dies after few seconds, sometimes it just keeps cranking. I have spark, fuel and compression is good. I replaced the maf, cam and crank sensors but same. Pulled the valve cover to inspect the timing but it is perfect. What else i need to check?
 

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Outside of timing being my 1st thing to recheck, harnesses not being connected or a vacuum line. No codes?
 

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I know you mentioned hooking up the obd2 scan tool but does the cel flash when you turn the key on ? sometimes you will get a error code with the cel and not the scan tool. Even if it shows no codes do a code erase. unplug maf and try to start and see if it throws the maf code. Is this all after or was it doing this prior to replacing the HG ?
Did you check fuel with a pressure guage ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know you mentioned hooking up the obd2 scan tool but does the cel flash when you turn the key on ? sometimes you will get a error code with the cel and not the scan tool. Even if it shows no codes do a code erase. unplug maf and try to start and see if it throws the maf code. Is this all after or was it doing this prior to replacing the HG ?
Did you check fuel with a pressure guage ?
Before replacing the HG the car will not start from the first time and once started I have to give it gas to keep it alive. After few days it started to overheat. I knew it was the HG because there was coolant in the spark plugs. Then I replaced the HG and had this issue, it will start and die same time. I replaced the coil packs and the car starts and idles fine but once warm up to operating temperature the engine vibrates . I am thinking it is fuel pump is overheating although it reads 50psi at idle .
 

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Before replacing the HG the car will not start from the first time and once started I have to give it gas to keep it alive. After few days it started to overheat. I knew it was the HG because there was coolant in the spark plugs. Then I replaced the HG and had this issue, it will start and die same time. I replaced the coil packs and the car starts and idles fine but once warm up to operating temperature the engine vibrates . I am thinking it is fuel pump is overheating although it reads 50psi at idle .
Doesn't sound like the fuel pump to me. Have you tested fuel pressure after idle until normal operating temp ? No codes ? Vibrates as in something other than normal engine vibration? Stock motor mounts ?
 

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I would consider the Possibility that the Scan Tool is Not Picking Up a Code -
1. Because the Battery was Unhooked? or
2. the Code was Erased..
I believe it takes Several "DRIVE" Cycles to Throw a Code (IE P0456 small evap leak) if it was Cleared - Without the Cause Being Fixed.
Being that the Car is Not being Driven Constantly ...No Code(s)?

I can't say that I'm an expect with a Scan Tool. In Fact I just used one this week for the 1st time and erased a P0456...
Then had a Mishap with my Fuel Pump Connector and broke a Corroded Prong - Off inside it..
SO Naturally the car won't start now.

It didn't throw any code on my CHEAP Y310? Scan Tool.
I am New with this tool.. and perhaps I should have had the car running and using a Different Setting to Check for the Problem..(just trying to play it safe and not mess up the Computer)!
But it did not show any OBDCode.. and the Key was in the ON Position.

I'm not a Mechanic... but if you have Fuel Pressure.. the Pump Must Be Working
-but could a Connector Malfunctioning on the Plug/Prongs, to the Pump?

Check the hoses on the Purge Valve Solenoid (under the hood). As well as the hoses to and from it - and that the Hose Valves are tight.

Recheck ALL Electrical Connectors.. Even ones that were not Intentionally Unplugged.

I remember changing a Tranny on a Honda and it took me Days or a Week, to Figure Out why it was Not Starting... A CONNECTOR!!!
I hardly even noticed it was unplugged, and I'm Not Really Sure that I had Unplugged it intentionally.

Another Occasion I couldn't get it to start and kept checking Spark Plugs/wires/ Rotor Button and Cap /Timing- etc. OVER AND OVER
I eventually did get it to start and it ran fine.. but why. I just wasn't sure what it was. Just something loose I believe. I know It wasn't the timing.

Jumping around with Suggestions (No Pun Intended):

Could it have to be "Primed"
-Turn the Key to the On and Off Position 2 or Three Times (for 4-5 Seconds)- Before Starting it.

Throttle Body Reset? I don't think it could hurt it.

Could it be a Fuse or Relay?
.
Smoke Test may also be helpful

Any Updates on Troubleshooting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would consider the Possibility that the Scan Tool is Not Picking Up a Code -
1. Because the Battery was Unhooked? or
2. the Code was Erased..
I believe it takes Several "DRIVE" Cycles to Throw a Code (IE P0456 small evap leak) if it was Cleared - Without the Cause Being Fixed.
Being that the Car is Not being Driven Constantly ...No Code(s)?

I can't say that I'm an expect with a Scan Tool. In Fact I just used one this week for the 1st time and erased a P0456...
Then had a Mishap with my Fuel Pump Connector and broke a Corroded Prong - Off inside it..
SO Naturally the car won't start now.

It didn't throw any code on my CHEAP Y310? Scan Tool.
I am New with this tool.. and perhaps I should have had the car running and using a Different Setting to Check for the Problem..(just trying to play it safe and not mess up the Computer)!
But it did not show any OBDCode.. and the Key was in the ON Position.

I'm not a Mechanic... but if you have Fuel Pressure.. the Pump Must Be Working
-but could a Connector Malfunctioning on the Plug/Prongs, to the Pump?

Check the hoses on the Purge Valve Solenoid (under the hood). As well as the hoses to and from it - and that the Hose Valves are tight.

Recheck ALL Electrical Connectors.. Even ones that were not Intentionally Unplugged.

I remember changing a Tranny on a Honda and it took me Days or a Week, to Figure Out why it was Not Starting... A CONNECTOR!!!
I hardly even noticed it was unplugged, and I'm Not Really Sure that I had Unplugged it intentionally.

Another Occasion I couldn't get it to start and kept checking Spark Plugs/wires/ Rotor Button and Cap /Timing- etc. OVER AND OVER
I eventually did get it to start and it ran fine.. but why. I just wasn't sure what it was. Just something loose I believe. I know It wasn't the timing.

Jumping around with Suggestions (No Pun Intended):

Could it have to be "Primed"
-Turn the Key to the On and Off Position 2 or Three Times (for 4-5 Seconds)- Before Starting it.

Throttle Body Reset? I don't think it could hurt it.

Could it be a Fuse or Relay?
.
Smoke Test may also be helpful

Any Updates on Troubleshooting?
It was the bloody ECU. After spending two weeks diagnosing still car wasnt starting so I decided that my last option would be the ecu. Went to junk yard and brought ecu and had it programmed, started the car all good.
 
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