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The suspense is killing me.....
I bet the pcm took a shit..
Ill get you that pin out tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #42
What security light lol
 

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I don't know if this will help...still looking for that pinout
2002 Sentra 2.5

Customer Concern:

No start. Did not have battery voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM) on terminals 109 and 111 at first. Wiggled the ECM connector and then had battery voltage and the engine started and ran for a few seconds and then stalled. Has a new cam and crank sensor. Still will occasionally start and then stall. Usually a no start at all. No ground for the fuel pump relay key ON. One time, the ECM relay and the fuel pump relay clicked ON and OFF about 3 times when the key was turned ON and then stopped clicking. When not starting right now, there is battery voltage to the ECM on terminals 109 and 111. Scan tool will not communicate to check for codes.

Average Reported Mileage:
77730

Tests/Procedures:

1. Check for good battery voltage to the ECM on the Black/Red wire at terminal 42 from the ignition switch with the key ON.

2. Check for good battery voltage to the ECM on the Red wire at terminal 12 and on the Red/Green wires at terminals 109 and 111 from the ECM relay with the key ON.

3. Check for good constant battery voltage to the ECM on the White/Blue wire at terminal 66.

4. Check for 5.0 volt reference from the ECM on the Red wire at terminal 65 of the ECM with the key ON.

5. Check the ECM grounds on the Black/Red wire at terminal 59 and on the Black wires at terminals 60, 106 and 108. Look for 0.05 volts or less to be ok.

6. Check the fuel pump relay ground on the Black/Pink wire at terminal 10 (non-immobilizer equipped vehicle) of the ECM to see if the ECM grounds terminal 10 for 5 seconds key ON - look for less than 1.0 volt key ON for 5 seconds and then 12 volts after 5 seconds. If the ECM is not grounding the fuel pump relay, terminal 10 should read battery voltage.

7. Check the ECM pin terminal connections for being clean and tight.

Tech Tips:

The ECM should ground the fuel pump relay for 5 seconds key ON even when not cranking - so the ECM just needs powers and grounds for that. No security light so no immobilizer, so if the ECM is defective and needs to be replaced, it does not need to be programmed for the engine to start and run. The ECM is covered under the 8 year/80,000 mile federal emissions warranty.
 

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Check on ecu pin #42 with the key on - voltage should be there if not, check fuse #17 by the coin purse it should have voltage there, if it does then there's a break between that fuse and the ecu, if it doesn't check the 40amp fuse at the fuse block by the battery. The ECU turns on the ECU power relay with a signal from the ignition when it's turned to the "on" position.

If all of the ignition side is good, move onto the ECU power side, make sure that all 3 sides of the relay (pin #1, 3 and 6) has power to begin with. Then turn the key on the "on" position and you should have power at the rest (pin#2, 5 and 7). If there is no power on the 2, 5 and 7 check continuity between 2 and ECU pin#20, 5 and 109 and 7 and 12, if all of that checks out ok and there's no short to power (meaning that there's no voltage going through those wires with them disconnected) and no short to ground (take an ohm meter and put 1 lead onto the ground and the other lead on one of the pins, should show OL). Then the ECU might've taken a dump.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Will be getting on this tonight
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Back to cam sensor wiring

Is thatbwith the green part of the connector on top or bottom?
 

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I guess you mean tab but that's on top iirc. Just keep stabbing it until it fits that's what I always do :troll:

Actually I made cvballa do it as pay back for telling me my knock sensor was the crank sensor. He had some trouble getting the cam sensor reconected but pretty sure the tab part is on top.
 

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Back to cam sensor wiring

Is thatbwith the green part of the connector on top or bottom?
Damn. I keep forgetting that I have my cam sensor upside down. I'm using a "reversed" crank sensor in there. So I apologize if I gave you the wrong diagram.

Anyway, here's a wiring diagram of how it's supposed to look like.

This is when you're looking directly at the connector where you see the pins.
1 - red/green
2 - red
3 - black

 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well I broke a sensor with my homemade harness. One of the pins broke so I'm at a standstill until my pigtail comes in

Hopefully tommorow
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Tried that previously

No difference
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Fixed my can sensor wiring

Car is now getting fuel. But no spark
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I have voltage at fuse 17 witg key on

Also eccs fuse has power with key on
 

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Discussion Starter #54
When I have it hooked up to my truck running it cranks much faster and stronger

I even get an occasional rpm reading from the safc
38-100

Also if there's no plugs in it it will crank with an rpm reading
 

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With the key on, do you have power to the red wire on the IVT and the ignition coils (they're all red)? Check if the black wires off the ignition coils (they're all black) have continuity to ground. After that, check if you have continuity between the ignition signal (#1 - brown, #2 - purple, #3 - blue/red, #4 - gray/red) and the ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I checked the ivt and coils already
No power

Pulling the ecu right now
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I've been getting a crank signal now car when jumped cranks at about 310-330 rpms

Is this enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I have voltage at pin 42
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I also have ignition voltage at the ecu. But not the coils
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Forges the last update. I checked the pinoit wrong

No voltage at ecu for the cpils
 
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