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Discussion Starter #61
So since I have nats what does that mean for swapping n ecu
 

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I checked the ivt and coils already
No power

Pulling the ecu right now
Do you have power on the ECU relay on all sides (with the key on)? Can't remember if you already answered that.

I've been getting a crank signal now car when jumped cranks at about 310-330 rpms

Is this enough?
That means that your crank sensor is working.

I also have ignition voltage at the ecu. But not the coils
That just means that the ignition switch signal works. Again check the ECU relay, if you look at the ignition coil and the IVT's wiring diagram from the FSM, it will show that they both get power from the ECU relay.

Forges the last update. I checked the pinoit wrong

No voltage at ecu for the cpils
This means that either there's a break on the wires or the ECU relay isn't giving the ECU power. Check pin#5 at the relay.

So since I have nats what does that mean for swapping n ecu
If you're swapping in another nats ecu, it means that you have to reprogram your keys first before it even primes the fuel pump. If you're swapping in a non nats ECU, you need to move 3 pins at the ECU. The cam and crank signals need to swapped and the fuel pump relay signal needs to move to another location.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Would it be easier to just find a non nats ecu and move those kind? I'm having a hard time getting at the ecu relay

Is there a pinoutnfor it.
I'm about to check voltage now

The ecu relay should be outputting to..voltage to two sources?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Pins 3 and 5 show no voltage
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Also what would be an equivelant ecu to get? Gonna try to order one asap
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Yeah that fuse is good.
I've been periodiccally checking them all
 

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Pins 3 and 5 show no voltage
That's with the key on? Do you have power on the other ones? I posted a picture of the pin out on page 3. You should have power at 1, 3 and 6 at all times, then 2, 5 and 7 should have power (12v) when the key is on. If you have no power on 3, that tells me either the fuse #36 is out or you have a break in the wire between that fuse and the relay.

Also what would be an equivelant ecu to get? Gonna try to order one asap
Non nats = 5L (02) K3 (03)
nats = 5P (02) K6 (03)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
1 3 and 6 do have power

The rest show little/no voltage
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Fuse 36 is also good
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Doesn't the fuse turn the relay on? So where does pin 5 actually go tonnso maybe I can bypass
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I can hear and feel the relay click with ignition. And I've tried swapping it with a few otgers so its definately not the relay itself
 

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I can hear and feel the relay click with ignition. And I've tried swapping it with a few otgers so its definately not the relay itself
I don't know but it has to be the relay, if you don't have power to 2, 5 and 7. Damn. #2 is the relay ground (switch), then 5 and 7 gives off power to the ECU, ignition coil and the IVT solenoid. If you could bypass and run 12v to #2, 5 and 7 out of the relay, that should give power to the system and you should be able to start the car if that was the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Wouldn't the ecu not turn on though?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I am going to wire 12v directly
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I bypassed the relay. And got the car to run but its running super lean. 17-19 on the WB
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Got the car to idle and run good

But only starts with the relatpy bypassed

Currently using a switch


Where exactly should in be looking for a short
 

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Has the relay been replaced with a known good unit? How do you have it bypassed? Did you just run a jumper on the relay connector?

You will need to focus on the wiring for the ECU relay.
 
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