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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I'm not new to this site but this is my first post here. Last week I was out for a drive and stopped at a McDonalds, I went back to my car and it fired up and idled just fine but it had zero power, literally tops out at 20mph. I got the codes checked and all signs point to my throttle body being totally unresponsive. I checked the throttle body connector with a multimeter and it seems to check out. After doing some research it looks like my ECU is likely the culprit. yay... I found a used one on marketplace for $60 and its for an 04 spec-v, but my car is an 03 spec-v. Does anyone know if the computers are compatible across these years or where I can find that info?
 

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That ECU will not work, only 02 & 03.

Can almost guarantee it's not the ecu. Have you done any relearns yet
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I won't pick that ECU up then.

I ran the idle relearn process and it had no effect. I'm not 100% sure it's the ECU, but I am certain that the throttle body is not opening at all. I've read several other forums where people with a similar problem to mine end up replacing the throttle body unit with no results. Do you have any theories on what it would be if it's not the ECU?
 

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I will say the tb, if the contacts in the black housing address worn you won't get a contact. Have you shot the pedal for a short?

Idle relearn won't have an effect until you do the tb relearn first. How did you verify the tb wasn't moving?
 
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Did you switch out the TB? Did you clean the TB? Are you sure you did the idle re-learn correctly? Sometimes it has taken me up to 20 attempts til it finally took.

Do you have access to a Consult II to have the idle relearn forced?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I did take off the intake in front of the tb and made sure there was nothing that could be keeping it closed. I dont think that's it, I had it off a couple months ago and cleaned it thoroughly.

I have not checked the pedal for a short so it could be something along that line.

I'll run out tonight and do the throttle body re-learn and listen to hear if it moves to verify my hunch, but the way it sounds when i press the gas and the amount of power loss I'm getting makes me think that the throttle body is unresponsive. I had a list of four codes from O'reilly's but I lost it. I don't remember the numbers on the codes but I at least know there was one for a rich air-fuel mixture, and one for loss of engine power. That leads me to believe its staying closed but if you have another theory id love to know.

I also called a shop today for advice and they are recommending a new throttle body as well. I did'n actually bring the car in, but just over that phone that's what they could recommend.

I do not have a consult ll so I can't force a re-learn it.
 

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Sometime, and when I say sometimes, I mean most times, you touch the TB at all, it will fail. It may not be right away, but that little bastard is super sensitive. Those of us that have been around the platform for awhile know to keep a few on hand just incase. I honestly rotate them out when an issue arises or I get thrown into limp mode. Ill pull them off Altimas at the junk yard, grab them off a stock or blown motor, Cause they are stupid delicate. The other thing is the relearn. There are two or three different relearns. You want to make sure you do the long one that resets everything. Sometimes you only do a shorter one, but do all of them if you can.


Replacing the ECU is a pain in the ass, finding the correct one for your car, for example. That's why were telling to to make sure you try all those things before moving on to the ECU.
 

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It could be the green connector. They are known to go bad if you remove the tb connector enough times. The pins inside them open up and don't spring back to make contact. Is this problem intermittent? Some people including myself have melted solder onto the tb pins to make them "fatter" so the pins would make contact.

What codes do you have? P2135?

Also if it is indeed your ECU. You can use an 02 but it will depend if you have nats or not. If you have nats then your ecu code (sticker on the actual ecu) is K6 which is compatible with the 5P (02), but you'll have to reprogram your keys. If you don't have nats then you have a K3 and a 5L from an 02 will be compatible and it would be a straight plug and play.
 

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Hello, I'm not new to this site but this is my first post here. Last week I was out for a drive and stopped at a McDonalds, I went back to my car and it fired up and idled just fine but it had zero power, literally tops out at 20mph. I got the codes checked and all signs point to my throttle body being totally unresponsive. I checked the throttle body connector with a multimeter and it seems to check out. After doing some research it looks like my ECU is likely the culprit. yay... I found a used one on marketplace for $60 and its for an 04 spec-v, but my car is an 03 spec-v. Does anyone know if the computers are compatible across these years or where I can find that info?
I know it's a stretch but have you checked all of your ground wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had an abundance of people recommending I replace the throttle body so I ordered one. The problem isn't intermittent but if the new unit doesn't fix it that soldering trick certainly wouldn't hurt to try out. If all else fails I guess i'll have to do a very in depth session with the multimeter. Thank's for all the tips and support everyone, I'll keep the status posted after I get the new throttle body installed.
 

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Ensure you do the relearns after clearing the codes first.
 
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