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So I sort of went through the same circumstances over this winter. My engine runs but it also has bad compression so I’ve went and bought an import engine to swap in. Swapping the engine just seemed like a simpler process to me since there’s less steps involved vs a rebuild; I don’t NEED over 300 horsepower so I feel a fully built engine isn’t necessary. Buying an import engine was much less expensive that buying a built engine from 2JR, and also doesn’t require the effort, time, and patience required in rebuilding your own engine If you decide to go that route. I opted to do simpler bolt on mods with my import engine; BC valve springs and titanium retainers, lightweight crank pulley, lightweight flywheel, 2JR plenum adapter kit, and balance shaft delete. You don’t really have to do any mods to the engine, but I imagine all of these mods are a lot easier to install with the engine on the stand instead of in the chassis.
I also plan on keeping my old engine in case I decide to have it rebuilt in the future; I can keep it on standby just in case something happens to the import engine or even have it built for higher power if my wallet allows it lol.
 

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Back in 16 my rings were pretty worn when the headgasket finally blew, ended up doing a home gamer refresh on the top end. Headgasket and resurfaced the head, bare min to get back on the road. Only lasted a year and half but it bought me enough time to save for proper repairs. I didnt want to fool with a complete rebuild so I ended up buying a fully remanned long block from rockauto for about 1700 (pls no judge). Ive put over 80K on that motor and only had to replace the valve cover gasket and front main seal, installed a lightweight crank pulley while I was at it. IMHO a lightweight crank pully is one of those no brainer mods. Even with an auto the engine feels spin happy.

I feel like i should mention the reason I went with a rockauto reman at the time was because I had heard and read about scams being run using restamped 2 liter engines from overseas. I dont know if this is still ( or ever was) an issue but I figured Id mention it.
I’ve read some of those horror stories recently where import sellers will buy QR20’s and re- stamp them as QR25’s.
Also pay attention and don’t buy the QR25DD direct injection motor. Those motor’s were never produced for the US market and they’re typically not sold with engine harnesses or ECU’s, so they’re all but useless to us in the states. The import sellers don’t know the difference between the QR25DE and QR25DD, so they’ll insist that they’re the same thing if you buy the wrong one. I made a post a couple months ago when I made this mistake and I had to spend an extra $500 in shipping to get the right engine delivered.
 

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I’m
Do you possibly remember where you bought the engine from? Given my time left and the budget I have, this option might be easier and safer. I think I may have found a good seller with good reviews on Ebay, I'll have to find the link, but I'm still nervous due to what I've heard about the big restamping issue.

I'll make a list of those parts, though my budget is a little tight, I'm definitely happy to do some upgrades and take a little more time so I can swing it while the motors out. beats doing it while it's in. On the bright side, any mod easy to do on a car lift that doesn't take forever I can probably swing, my work lets me use my bay in the evenings after work for my own stuff.
I’m not going to recommend the place I bought from because 1) they only have a QR25DD and QR20 in stock right now, and 2) the guy didn’t do me any favors when he gave me the wrong engine so I’m not doing any favors for him. I didn’t buy mine through eBay, but I would definitely recommend that as a good option for you so in case you have any funny business then eBay can get involved.
 

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Hey guys, I'm back. I ended up ordering a used engine. It arrived yesterday and I've begun looking it over today. Here are the pictures of the identification tags, what caught my eye is the one on the used engine is angled differently.

Here is a picture of my original engines ID tag.

View attachment 175038

And here is a picture of the used engines ID tag.


View attachment 175039


Should this difference deter me? I might seem nitpicky but I'd love to catch anything before I install it in the car.
I've noticed its the black plastic intake manifold on this one, and the power steering pump has a sensor coming off of the main line.

Thoughts guys?

Thank you all for the help so far
If the QR25 engraving on the water pipe insert is 90 degrees off from your motor’s engraving then it might be a QR20.

Edit: link to scam info:
Edit 2.0: I think yours is legit actually. It’s consistent with genuine engravings, and what I said about the engraving being 90 degrees may not be accurate.
 

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Hey guys, I'm back. I ended up ordering a used engine. It arrived yesterday and I've begun looking it over today. Here are the pictures of the identification tags, what caught my eye is the one on the used engine is angled differently.

Here is a picture of my original engines ID tag.

View attachment 175038

And here is a picture of the used engines ID tag.


View attachment 175039


Should this difference deter me? I might seem nitpicky but I'd love to catch anything before I install it in the car.
I've noticed its the black plastic intake manifold on this one, and the power steering pump has a sensor coming off of the main line.

Thoughts guys?

Thank you all for the help so far
Can you take a picture of the intake manifold?
Wanna make sure it’s a QR25DE and not a QR25DD
 
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