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Discussion Starter #1
Want to know if anyone has tried to replace the b15's trunk torsion strut system with the G35's hydronic strut design?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ik you will have to cut and weld some steel sheets on the sides of the trunk, maybe g20 struts better?, but I think it would still free up alot of space those stupid hindges take up.

I even saw these unused threaded bolts (on both sides) on the trunk frame that maybe can be used to bolt some steel sheets to?
 

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The torsion system takes up minimal space, I have them removed for my 6.5 sub box.

The "better" route would be mounting struts in the channel outside the trunk, this is the method I'm partially looking into but finding the correct struts that works for the geometry and clearance is the real work.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The only way Ive seen that done is puting the strut litterally on yhe back of the moving bar and conneting it directly to the frame near the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
But my concern isnt with the torsion bars themselves, its the moving bar I dont like. It restricts loading big cargo, or a large sub box, where the Infiniti system would take up about half of that and move it to the sides to give more usable space.

I think it can be done with some open threaded tubes, as spacers, from the picture points and a 1/2" steel sheet extended foward. Drill some holes and mount the trunk folding system on one side the sheet and add the hydraulic strut to the other side. Then, remove the old swinging trunk arms and torsion springs and boom💥 new setup with more space


I have alot of stuff going on rn but I wanted to put this info out so maybe someone that did could fab something up. Junkyard g20 struts probably best b/c they bolt to the sides of the trunk instead of flat on trunk like the G35's
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The torsion system takes up minimal space, I have them removed for my 6.5 sub box.

The "better" route would be mounting struts in the channel outside the trunk, this is the method I'm partially looking into but finding the correct struts that works for the geometry and clearance is the real work.

This is what Im refering to for Cricki's set up

 

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Easy to do. I did it back in 1980 with a car when I added a rear spoiler and the torsion bars would not hold up the weight of the boot lid with the spoiler.
Just measure the lengths needed when the gas strut will be extended and when compressed. The tricky bit is getting to find the correct force of the gas strut for the weight of the boot lid. Mounting points should be easy to find with the back seat out and having someone close and open the boot lid so you can see the movement of the hinge arm.
 
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