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Discussion Starter #1
I am ready to bleed the slave cylinder on the B16 clutch, any one know how this is done. Can it be gravity bled?
 

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Looks like the same as the wife's versa, it's a PITA, no actual bleed screw to turn. I was half tempted to pay someone else to bleed it...

Bleeding is in the CL section of the fsm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like the same as the wife's versa, it's a PITA, no actual bleed screw to turn. I was half tempted to pay someone else to bleed it...

Bleeding is in the CL section of the fsm.
Thanks Cricki, I will check it out. The reason I asked if it would bleed by gravity is, when I pulled that line loose when I was removing the engine, it emptied the master cylinder. Thanks again, so far there doesn't seem to be much of anything easy on this build. lol
 

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Oops, got on an irritated rant there... not gravity... or at least the versa wasn't when getting all the air out and building/ holding pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cricki, being a mod myself on a DIY forum, I understand the frustrations of a subject that has been repeated many many times as is the case here. I do searches before asking questions so as not to ask the same question that has been asked before. When the answers I get aren't understandable to me is when I ask. I really do appreciate your patience, you have gone far and above helping me. In saying that, there is one question as I don't understand the instructions in the CL section of the manual.

The Manual says: Bleed the air from the clutch system according to the following: 1. Push in the lock pin (1) of the bleeding connector (2), and hold it in. CAUTION: Hold the lock pin in to prevent the bleeding connector from separating when fluid pressure is applied.

Is the lock pin pushed in from each side, or pushed down from the top? Thanks again Cricki.
 

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That is the irritating design, and if I remember correctly you push down and or slides a little bit. This could be an all day affair.
 

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Cricki, being a mod myself on a DIY forum, I understand the frustrations of a subject that has been repeated many many times as is the case here. I do searches before asking questions so as not to ask the same question that has been asked before. When the answers I get aren't understandable to me is when I ask. I really do appreciate your patience, you have gone far and above helping me. In saying that, there is one question as I don't understand the instructions in the CL section of the manual.

The Manual says: Bleed the air from the clutch system according to the following: 1. Push in the lock pin (1) of the bleeding connector (2), and hold it in. CAUTION: Hold the lock pin in to prevent the bleeding connector from separating when fluid pressure is applied.

Is the lock pin pushed in from each side, or pushed down from the top? Thanks again Cricki.
Crick is correct. Unfortunately they cannot be gravity bled. I had a shop replace my slave cylinder right after I got my car last year and I remember the mechanic telling me that he hopes to god the car burns to the ground before he ever has to bleed the clutch system again. I'm going to take that as a ''not simple, totally a Nissan thing.'' Glad to see you're getting her done man! I have been watching. I haven't had much input because my car is only a slight pile of patty instead of a complete dumpster fire (the year is new, and there's plenty of miles to change that) and I didn't have much to contribute as my engine rebuilds consist of a 4.6 2V from a Ford, a 4.3 Vortec from a S10 and a 4G64 from a Galant and I didn't want to muddy up your post with nothing that didn't contribute directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The more I read the more I am afraid that I am going to have to pull that engine back out. I used the old throw out bearing. The slave cylinder and throw out bearing are all one thing. I didn't think to bleed that slave cylinder inside the bell housing and there is no way under the sun to get to it other than pull the engine and drop the transmission again. I see why I got such a good deal on this car now, it is a car from...well you know. The rest of the car is perfect, it really does look like it just came off the showroom floor. Everything works, the car was well taken care of...except for the blame engine. I am making another career with this car.

Question, I know the way to bench bleed the slave cylinder that is around the pilot shaft. You put the end of the hose in fluid and pump it by hand until all the air is out. My question is: Can I pull a vacuum on the hose to pull all the air out of the slave then let fluid go back in? Would that work? I don't know how I would pull a vacuum on it but...

Another question. Since I am using the same slave that was in there and it hasn't been pumped, do you think the fluid is still in that cylinder? Do you think I need to re-bleed it?
 

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The more I read the more I am afraid that I am going to have to pull that engine back out. I used the old throw out bearing. The slave cylinder and throw out bearing are all one thing. I didn't think to bleed that slave cylinder inside the bell housing and there is no way under the sun to get to it other than pull the engine and drop the transmission again. I see why I got such a good deal on this car now, it is a car from...well you know. The rest of the car is perfect, it really does look like it just came off the showroom floor. Everything works, the car was well taken care of...except for the blame engine. I am making another career with this car.

Question, I know the way to bench bleed the slave cylinder that is around the pilot shaft. You put the end of the hose in fluid and pump it by hand until all the air is out. My question is: Can I pull a vacuum on the hose to pull all the air out of the slave then let fluid go back in? Would that work? I don't know how I would pull a vacuum on it but...

Another question. Since I am using the same slave that was in there and it hasn't been pumped, do you think the fluid is still in that cylinder? Do you think I need to re-bleed it?
I'm not sure how much use this will be for you, but here's a service manual that I was able to find for the B16 Sentra: 2007 NISSAN SENTRA Service Repair Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you Alpha, I will for sure check that link out, I really do appreciate it.

Just a thought: why can't I pull the line going to the transmission from the outside of the cylinder on the firewall and using a turkey baster and bleed all the air out of that line down to the transmission. There will be fluid in that line. Leave that line open that hooks from the cylinder, at the firewall, and let all the air in the slave inside of the transmission bubble to the top of that line. It should work to get the air out of the slave that is on the pilot shaft.

Then I would have to bench bleed that cylinder on the firewall to get all the air out of it. Re-connect the lines and it should be good to go. What do you think, do you think that might work? Does anyone see a problem whit this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Since yesterday I found out that there is a clutch damper in the line from the cylinder at the firewall to the slave around the pilot shaft. That valve is the reason it is so hard to bleed this system if I don't miss my guess.

The valve is to allow the clutch to slip a little for people who don't know how to drive a stick shift like in the old days. Sorta like a shock absorber. Back then when a person was learning to drive a stick, the car would jump and jerk because when they let out on the clutch peddle, it took off. This damper, from what I understand, stops that jerking, it allows the clutch plate to slip a little to damper the BAM when letting off the clutch fast. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Since that damper is in line with trying to bleed the system, why can't it be removed, bleed the line and put it back in if you want it in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Due to weather, not feeling well and just disgusted with bleeding the clutch, I haven't been back on the car for a week or two. I still have not gotten all the air out of the clutch system yet. I thought by removing the clutch damper that would make a lot of difference when bleeding the system, it did not make any difference what so ever. I now feel the reason it is so hard to get the air out is the configuration of the line going from the master cylinder to the bleeder valve. There is a bend in that line that makes a 90 degree bend downward for several inches. IMHO, there is not enough fluid pushed through the system to push air from that bend. Each time air will just go back and forth in that bend.

The concept of pushing that clip on the bleeder valve so it slides back approximately 1/4 inch is a joke to say the least. When under pressure and you push down on that clip, it doesn't stop at the catch like it is said too, it just blows the line completely off and you have to start all over because air just got back in the system.

I made a deal that I can place behind the bleeder valve to keep it from blowing off. Two things now happen: one, it blows the line back toward inside the transmission, so I really don't know if it is completely uncoupled or not. Second, under pressure the air and fluid comes out so fast it is impossible to see any air that might be removed, it literally comes out as fast as if it were shot from a gun.

Here is what I plan to do today, Lord willing, I will go to the hardware store and see if I can find a 1/4 inch water shut off valve, short piece of hose and small hose clamp. I will install this water shut off valve on the bleeder port of the bleeder valve, push the spring clip and slide the line back until it catches. At this point the line will be open so fluid will pass through the bleeder port, through the hose, through the water shut off valve and into a bottle of brake fluid. With the clutch pedal to the floor, close the water shut off and repeat until all air is out of the system. There is no need to slide the line back completely coupled until all air is removed.

You just bleed the system using the water shut off valve...I hope. I will let you know how this goes and take a few photos, just in case it does work. If it does, it will sure make bleeding this sorry set up a lot easier. I have already bled a qt of fluid through the system with no luck, so I am really hoping this water valve is the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No way to edit post... Just had a thought, if that bend in the line goes down it will not trap air there like I was thinking, the air would rise so that theory is shot. How ever, the line going from the cylinder at the clutch pedal goes down for a long way where air can be trapped. Anyway, just wanted to clear that up, just wasn't thinking.
 

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Same issue I had, I bleed it the best I could then let gravity do its thing plus some mindless pumping of the clutch pedal before I drove the car.

If I still had the wife's versa I would have the dealer do it, lost my patience with that idiotic set up...
 

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click on the triple dots to edit posts.

I've done it in the b15, in the middle of 120 degree heat, by my self, lol


It can be done, just takes forever.
The bleed line is not like ours at all, throw away your normal concept of bleeding on the b16.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I did get the clutch bled today...I hope. It sure feels like it is ok. I did have about 1 1/2 inch of play in the pedal but now I only have about 1/2-3/4 inch of play and it feels firm. Man I hope it is good to go. There was no more air coming out after quite a few times of bleeding. I did hook a 1/4 inch water valve into a clear line and clamped the other end to the bleeder port of the bleeder valve at the transmission.

At first it blew the coupling off where it clips onto the line coming out of the transmission. I got the deal I made to hold the line onto the coupling and still let the coupling back a hair to let the fluid out of the bleeder port. I pumped it up 15 times, left the water valve closed then held the pedal to the floor. I held the coupling with my holder deal and pushed the clip down. The coupling slide back like it was supposed to. I slowly opened the water valve and let the fluid and air out.

Clear Line Hooked to Bleeder.jpg
Bleeder Hose.jpg
I had the hose long enough so I stuck the end of the hose back into the reservoir so I didn't have to keep adding fluid. It was crystal clear from all the fluid I had ran through it so it was good to go. My wife helped me with the pedal so it went good as I didn't have to let the coupling lock back into place, all I had to do was open the water valve until all the air was gone.
 
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