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I will say, this is my first time trying this. I'm book smart, but when I turn a wrench everything goes wrong for me.
That being said, I didn't run into any serious issues, although this did take me 2 hours (anyone can finish this in an hour or less though). Couldn't find my ratchet set, and when I did, they all fell out of the case. Lol.

What you'll need:
-New pads (usually comes with brake grease)
-Anti seize would be good
-Ratchet with 17mm socket
-Caliper Piston tool (rented from autozone for free, with $63 deposit, you get it back).
-Wheel stoppers (2x4's work)
-Jack, jack stands
-Something with about equal height of the rear axle beam when jacked up (to hold calipers up

1: park in gear, do NOT put on the e-brake

2: put a couple planks of wood (or wheel stoppers of any kind) in front and behind the front tires just in case.

3: Loosen rear wheel lugs

4: Jack up the car, put jack stands

5: remove rear wheels


6: get 17mm socket and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper


7: once removed, put the caliper on an object to avoid from having them hang, possibly causing potential damage to the brake lines.

-Note, sometimes pulling the caliper off the rotor is kinda tough. You can use a hammer if shimming it from the top to bottom doesn't break it free. Do not hit in places that are weak or than can potentially break, and don't smash it, just give it a few good whacks.

8: remove old pads from the caliper, and remove shims behind old brake pads (if you get hawk pads, you wont need to reuse them).

9: grease the backs of the pads with the grease included to reduce possibly noise in the future. I used a piece of cardboard from the caliper box to spread it. Directions say not to touch it.


10: (I wish I got a pic of this. lol). Now you want to remove the outer part/bracket of the caliper. There are 2 little black boot looking things, they wont brake if you pull out on the outer bracket though. I didn't figure that out for a while, hence 2 hours. Lol.

11: once outer bracket is removed, use the HO14 attachment (which is pictured in step 9) from the piston kit, and the clamp looking tool with the metal brake pad looking thing. You want to put these 2 little dots where they fit on the pistons (you'll see it, also pictured next), and the fake "pad" on the inside of the caliper.
Twist until the piston is ALL the way in (this is another place a screwed up. I tried after a few turns, after a few more, but never had enough clearance).
Once you're about as far as you can go, you want to make sure one of the dots is at 12 o'clock (one will be at 12, 3, 6, and 9). It should look like this


12: now put the outer bracket back in, make sure the pad "shim" type things that help hold the pads in place are correctly seated. Now the pad with the metal thing jutting out goes on the inside, with the piece towards the front of the car.

-put that one in first, then do the outer pad

13: once the pads are in, pull the caliper to where the rotor sits between them. This was pretty tough as well, you have almost only exact clearance with new pads. Play with the bracket moving it in and out until you get the right position to slide in.

14: I put anti seize on these bolts because they are in an awkward place (not always easy to get leverage), and need to be taken off for regular maintenance. I don't want any problems with them later.


15: bolt the caliper back into place, make sure it's tight!

16: mount the wheel, and tighten the lugs as best you can.

17: lower the car, and make sure to tighten the lugs.

So you think you're done?! Wrong. At least with hawk pads, you want to "seat" them in.

First, make sure your car can stop when you turn it on. Lol.

Now you want to make 6-10 stops from 30-40mph. Nothing crazy, just easy deceleration. Once you do these, make 2-4 stops from 40-45mph, these should be a little more sudden. Finally, park the car for 15min and let the brakes cool.

Now your done!

Note: Sometimes you need to change your rotors, or have them resurfaced. You are supposed to check and see if the rears have worn past .012 for resurfacing, and for new ones I believe it's 1 or 2mm thinner than what it should be (is it supposed to be 9mm?). So take that into consideration when doing pads.



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Nice write up man.

But you have to post pics of the drop. ( If you already did so, then disregard my last statement.)
 

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Thanks.
Eh, the drop is similar to my sig. Lol. But I pulled and rolled the fender a little more, so I'll be going lower soon.


And I noticed an improvement with rear hawk HPS pads. I had Hawk HPS pads up front on my 300zx calipers, but now with the rears it stops great! I usually don't like using the brakes unless I need them, but I found myself trying to slam on the brakes all day today. Lol.



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this is a great writeup and awesome pics in the process. if i hadnt done my rears like 10 times already i wouldn't know there was an easier way. so here's what i think:

- it's easier to remove the caliper first, then to remove the bracket. its hard to take the bracket off when the caliper is off the car. and you dont need to remove the bracket unless the rotor is coming off. which is why i think you did it that way...?
- i use pb blaster on all the bolts to help them free easier, but i live way up here in new england, so everything rusts over.
- i know you put antiseize on all the bolts which is great for next time. but you should checked/lubed the sliders as well, they require lube, under that 'black boot'. i know yours may have been fine, but good to mention since a lot of ppl's sliders rust in place.
- i usually use the cnc disc brake quiet, which is sticky, and you glue the shims to the pads so they dont move and make squeeky noises.
- you also need to clean/lube those shiny steel plates on the brackets that the pads sit in.
- when turning/pressing on the piston, you might want to watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood, or at least take the cap off so it can overflow.
- the tool set you rented is precise equipment. there's a block that fits on your 3/8 ratchet that will spin the piston for you. it's only couple dollars, here's a link to it:
OEM/Rear disc brake cube for use with 3/8 in. drive tool (25071) | | AutoZone.com

and again thanks for the great writeup, im sure many ppl will use this!
 

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Nice writeup, everything i68k said is true. I've replaced rears as well, for pads you don't have to remove the bracket(front or rear) and cleaning the sliders is an important part when doing brakes.

The ratchet adapter(piston cube) is awesome as well - once you use it you dont wana use the piston tool ever again.
 

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Imma use your write up this thursday, ill let you know how easy it is step by step because im the same as you, I know when I read and see it, but when I work on my car, I always drop the extensions or ratchets in the engine bay somewhere or I need a 10mm and its the only one missing in the tool box!! FML!!!
 

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One thing I would like to add is you don't need to actually remove the caliper... Just remove one of the caliper bolts and swing the caliper down to remove the pads. This way it's easier to spin the caliper back in... Also you put the lube on the top of the shim... What you should do is put the lube between the shim and pad. I believe the bolt is a 12mm
 

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specBee - it may be easier to take the caliper off, either way whether one at a time or both at a time, you should be sure to lube the sliders and make sure theyre not going to get stuck in the near future. maybe take off the bottom bolt, lube the slider, put it back on, then take the top one of, tilt caliper, lube top slider and change pads etc, reassemble. i dont like when brakes fail so this is just a suggestion ;)
 

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what about the front pads? any special tools?
 

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i think theres another thread for front brakes....?

no special tools for the front brakes, normal c-clamp will work. normal tools as well, dont recall sizes tho. front pads also have that wire spring things that seperate the pads. make sure you put them back in the little holes on the pads.
 

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^ what he said. This is a good post. And the antiseize is a highly rec, especially for our cars (rust) as my friend says! with time and patients you'll be okay.
 

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Anyone have the problem with the rear caliper piston boot twisting to hell?

The boot is twisted so bad I think it's seizing
 

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Anyone have the problem with the rear caliper piston boot twisting to hell?
The boot is twisted so bad I think it's seizing
yea, it happens to me often. you need to make sure its not crunchy in there when you take the caliper off. use some pb blaster or something to the rubber gets wet and slides when your turn the piston. i know i had a really rusty piston for while, it seizied up with the rubber stuck partially inside. i yanked and ripped the rubber out, and what do you know, the caliper works great with a rusty piston top...? lol.
 

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Anyone have the problem with the rear caliper piston boot twisting to hell?

The boot is twisted so bad I think it's seizing
I just did my rear brakes and I also had this problem. They wouldn't turn with caliper piston and this was the only way I could get it compressed. What issues will this cause?
 

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