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Great how to Sammy! Up north the elements are brutal on parts so I suggest the following as other northerners also have,

If you pull the boot away from the piston you can clean and lube the rubber so it wont twist with the piston.

VERY important to pull out the sliders and clean out the sockets they go in (i sprayed pb blaster in them and some steel wool) also clean the slider bolts same way then lube w grease. This is a must if you drive up north They will get stuck and brakes will not function.
 

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I've done a front rotor and brake pad swap before but I'm curious about the rear. Why is it different if any at all? Also, I've used a C-Clamp (common instead if the caliper tool you used) to compress the piston... Is that serving as the same purpose or something different? Can you use that instead of the caliper tool or do you have to have it? I see the circular piece with those grooves you were talking about (in clock- like positions 12,3,6 &9).

I just want to avoid taking apart the back and ended up stranded or screwed without proper tools.
 

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I will say, this is my first time trying this. I'm book smart, but when I turn a wrench everything goes wrong for me.
That being said, I didn't run into any serious issues, although this did take me 2 hours (anyone can finish this in an hour or less though). Couldn't find my ratchet set, and when I did, they all fell out of the case. Lol.

What you'll need:
-New pads (usually comes with brake grease)
-Anti seize would be good
-Ratchet with 17mm socket
-Caliper Piston tool (rented from autozone for free, with $63 deposit, you get it back).
-Wheel stoppers (2x4's work)
-Jack, jack stands
-Something with about equal height of the rear axle beam when jacked up (to hold calipers up

1: park in gear, do NOT put on the e-brake

2: put a couple planks of wood (or wheel stoppers of any kind) in front and behind the front tires just in case.

3: Loosen rear wheel lugs

4: Jack up the car, put jack stands

5: remove rear wheels


6: get 17mm socket and remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper


7: once removed, put the caliper on an object to avoid from having them hang, possibly causing potential damage to the brake lines.

-Note, sometimes pulling the caliper off the rotor is kinda tough. You can use a hammer if shimming it from the top to bottom doesn't break it free. Do not hit in places that are weak or than can potentially break, and don't smash it, just give it a few good whacks.

8: remove old pads from the caliper, and remove shims behind old brake pads (if you get hawk pads, you wont need to reuse them).

9: grease the backs of the pads with the grease included to reduce possibly noise in the future. I used a piece of cardboard from the caliper box to spread it. Directions say not to touch it.


10: (I wish I got a pic of this. lol). Now you want to remove the outer part/bracket of the caliper. There are 2 little black boot looking things, they wont brake if you pull out on the outer bracket though. I didn't figure that out for a while, hence 2 hours. Lol.

11: once outer bracket is removed, use the HO14 attachment (which is pictured in step 9) from the piston kit, and the clamp looking tool with the metal brake pad looking thing. You want to put these 2 little dots where they fit on the pistons (you'll see it, also pictured next), and the fake "pad" on the inside of the caliper.
Twist until the piston is ALL the way in (this is another place a screwed up. I tried after a few turns, after a few more, but never had enough clearance).
Once you're about as far as you can go, you want to make sure one of the dots is at 12 o'clock (one will be at 12, 3, 6, and 9). It should look like this


12: now put the outer bracket back in, make sure the pad "shim" type things that help hold the pads in place are correctly seated. Now the pad with the metal thing jutting out goes on the inside, with the piece towards the front of the car.

-put that one in first, then do the outer pad

13: once the pads are in, pull the caliper to where the rotor sits between them. This was pretty tough as well, you have almost only exact clearance with new pads. Play with the bracket moving it in and out until you get the right position to slide in.

14: I put anti seize on these bolts because they are in an awkward place (not always easy to get leverage), and need to be taken off for regular maintenance. I don't want any problems with them later.


15: bolt the caliper back into place, make sure it's tight!

16: mount the wheel, and tighten the lugs as best you can.

17: lower the car, and make sure to tighten the lugs.

So you think you're done?! Wrong. At least with hawk pads, you want to "seat" them in.

First, make sure your car can stop when you turn it on. Lol.

Now you want to make 6-10 stops from 30-40mph. Nothing crazy, just easy deceleration. Once you do these, make 2-4 stops from 40-45mph, these should be a little more sudden. Finally, park the car for 15min and let the brakes cool.

Now your done!

Note: Sometimes you need to change your rotors, or have them resurfaced. You are supposed to check and see if the rears have worn past .012 for resurfacing, and for new ones I believe it's 1 or 2mm thinner than what it should be (is it supposed to be 9mm?). So take that into consideration when doing pads.




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any video on this bro??
 

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: facepalm
 
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x3 palmed faces.
 

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Check the date on the actual post.

Anyway, you can just watch youtube and any rear disk brake job would semi apply with the b15 as it has one of the most common rear brake set up out there. The caliper has the parking brake mechanism that you'll need to "screw" in so it goes back into the caliper. There are tools to do it and there are ways to do it without said tools by using pliers and such. Makes it easy with the tools though.
 
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