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295 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I realize that there exist two other threads on the subject, but neither really had great pictures so I figured I'd make this one just in case people wanted to see what was actually involved.

Tools I used:
1/2" chisel
Big ass hammer
2 crescent wrenches
Various sockets/wrenches to remove LCA's
Propane Torch
Channel lock pliers
Flat tip screwdriver
File for cleaning up any burrs on LCA's

First, put the car on jacks and take off the front wheels


Removing the control arms is pretty straight forward, the "hardest" part is the ball joint. Loosen the nut after removing the cotter pin, and then wail on the lower arm with a hammer until the ball joint is shocked loose. After that you can remove the 3 rear bolts to the chassis and the front nut/bolt from the arm. Remove the LCA assembly.


Here are some pictures of what I had when I took my arms off. I was able to separate the rear bushing assembly from the arm just by twisting and pulling it off, the bushings were toast.


You will have to separate the rear cast piece from the rest of the control arm. If you are not able to do this as easily as I was, the easiest way is to burn the bushing until you can separate the two. After this is done you will have the outer sleeve left on the cast piece, and the inner sleeve left on the LCA.


Now the fun begins! I started with the sleeve on the LCA. Cut a small slot into the sleeve along the length of the sleeve. Be more careful than I was so that you don't start cutting into the LCA pin. I just kissed that pin although it looks a lot worse in the pictures.


Now carefully start to chisel away the sleeve from the arm. You will not have to completely fuck up the sleeve to get it off. I found that after peeling just a little of the sleeve away, the rest of it came off just by hammering it lengthwise off of the LCA pin.



Next is the rear case housings for the bushings. I used a hacksaw, by removing the blade and then reassembling it inside the housing.


Much of this process is the same, make a cut (I'd recommend 2) and then chisel the outer sleeve from the cast housing.


Be careful not to cut into the cast housing itself. Be patient.


If you're like me, you'll find that using a hacksaw through the remnant rubber is a pain in the dick. So you'll want to burn it out before making that cut. This was my second housing.





Now onto the last bushing, which I found to be the biggest PITA. Burn the damn thing until you can pull out the inner pin.


Burn the rest of the rubber to make it easier for you to hacksaw the sleeve out.


Make your cut(s)


If you're lucky, you might be able to get away with just bashing the shit out of it with a size 21/22mm deep socket and the sleeve will come out. On one of mine this worked, the other one needed some chisel time.


Now let's press in those new bushings! For the most part, this can be done with your hands. I found, however, that I could only get them 90% in this way. I planned ahead and got a long bolt/nut/washers from Home Depot prior to doing this. Here is my ghetto rig for pressing in the rear bushing. Make sure to read the instructions and make sure the rear bushing goes in the right direction. Mushroom faces the arm after its fully assembled.




Make sure to lube up the inside before installation to the arm.


The front bushings are simple as well. Press them in with your hands (lube the bitches up first) and then install the center sleeve. I used that bolt again to get them perfectly flush.



The last part before reinstalling the arms is to press the rear bushing/housing onto the arm (don't forget the washer).


Now just reinstall the entire arm just how you removed it and go get that bitch aligned.


Or maybe go get some tires first.....


1,681 Posts
Good work chap. Item numbers for these parts?

1,410 Posts
quick tip..prior to workin on the car throw the bushins in the fridge so temporarily shrink ...this tip would have saved you a lot of effort. i know it helped me when doin my 5 lug swap sleeve install

1,740 Posts
Nice write up with pics Josh! I don't remember it being that labor intensive when we did my ES mounts but you did my hi flow cat too LOL! Glad to see you got the Spec outta storage & anyone in FL thats close to you should hit you up for help or whatever you do a great job with your work.:biggthumpup:

295 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks man. I hope all the work I did is still holding up on your car! I miss having my garage back home, I did this bushing swap in a parking lot haha.

1 Posts
Great write up! Being able to do a DIY install is a pleasant thing. What do you think about the type of bolt you used to pull the bushing into the housing?

We built our own bushing installer and at first we used a Grade 5 All thread rod... It didn't work so well. The threads got really hot and then failed. We couldn't get the entire bushing in. Once we switched to a Grade 8 Bolt though.. Worked like a charm.. We also greased the bolt which helped a lot. Check out the video I made of my experience with the Homemade Bushing Installer.. This worked well for a bushing that had a metal sleeve around it:

21 Posts
this is perfect man! idk but for some reason im able to spin the 3 bolt mount. Like the mount is on the control arm with ES bushing but im able to spin it on the spindle of the control arm. full 360 turns. isnt it supposed to be on tight as fuck??
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