A Nissan Sentra Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is mainly directed to the Tilton and some will relate to the Wilwood, Wilwood would be the most convenient to install.
Won't break this down to far as it is pretty simply removal/install and most will be suggestions.

Things you will need besides tools, brake fluid and a way to bleed:
A 7/16-20" to -6 AN 90* swivel fitting https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at949064erl
A male -8 AN to female -6 AN fitting https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-497308bl
Either 2 35mm or 40 mm hardware
Custom line if needed

What may be an option or as needed
A 6" Tilton replacement pushrod https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-75-031/overview/ NOTE Pushrod that comes with it works but leaving the link just in case.
Replacement -8AN to Barb fitting of different angle(maybe)


UPDATE: Due to recent findings of the condition of my clutch, I have reason to believe that the push rod that comes from Z Speed is of satisfactory length to accommodate any adjustments needed. I have not verified this and will leave that portion of the how-to as it may depend on the clutch setup you have and how you adjust the pedal to your master.

There are two issues with the master (both), the push rod and the mounting hardware is too short. I am not sure how long the rod is normally for the master but Z Speed already uses shortened 6" rods and I ran out of threads before I got to the proper adjustment point.

Here is a new rod versus the supplied Z Speed rod
20180206_170023.jpg

No pic but to remove the push rod you just need snap ring pliers, I transferred everything over for an initial cut. I put every thing on first as I did not have a die that pitch
20180206_171115.jpg

Due to clearance issues ended up with this length, you can go shorter if need be as it was a PITA when trying to make some adjustments as it was hitting the pedal but you don't want to go too much. use the old rod for reference.
2018-02-12 19.30.46.jpg

Once the that is done it is on to replacing the mounting hardware, it originally came with 30mm long Allen bolts but any Allen bolts longer than 30mm at Lowe's had a shank to them so I opted to get hex head bolts. Grabbed 40mm long ones but 35 will still give you plenty of room.
20180212_140357.jpg

The fluid intake comes with a -8AN to -4AN adapter to mate with the masters cap and attached is the barb fitting, that needs to be removed from the cap and the 90* -4 AN swivel fitting put in its place for clearance. The -8AN to -4AN will attach to it after you have the 90* swivel oriented properly. I had to rotate it a little more to get the clearance to end up at this position with the other fittings attached. This is where a new barb fitting may come into play, it originally came with a 45* fitting but I am using a 90*.
2018-02-12 19.32.58.jpg

After the hose was cut to fit it worked out, here is how it looks but not installed.
20180212_140348.jpg

Last and most fun is under the dash, You will need to unplug both start switch and the cruise control safety switch. It will be hard to see in the pic but I had to completely remove the safety switch and put the nut on the other side to get it to be long enough to engage the pedal. The cruise control safety switch had to come out a lot to get full throw.You can see how long the mount bolts are with the nuts on there.
20180212_191300.jpg

The line they supply you with s long, I will look for a place to do a custom dual banjo line, I know of one already and they do custom motorcycle brake line to what ever length you need and is some what rotatable.

This I not the best how to and I wasn't fully prepared to do this as well as the laptop lagging as I have an update waiting and my virus scan going.

Update:
20180303_163107-1.jpg
New line from Core Moto with a mounting grommet, the grommet will be wrapped with a P-clamp and secured in the old location that the hardline ended and the flex line continued. 37" is more than enough with some slack, 35"-36" will work depending on how you route it.


FINAL SOLUTION

Its a little dirty but just wanted to show how it is mounted in there now with the current fittings.
20190402_173530.jpg
20190402_173542.jpg
20190402_173550.jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
For a custom line I am going with a company I have used before, they do lines to your specs: http://www.coremoto.com/product_p/cb4000.htm
It is a motorcycle line company but the link is directly to one line being made.

I measured around 36" using safety wire for the routing of my choice but will be ordering a 37" line.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Updated first post with the new line.

Will update later as I need to install a crush washer at the 90* to the masters cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
so if i read this correctly... need longer allen bolts by at least 5mm and a 90* fitting instead of the 45* one.... and different length line.

Do you think you could just use a 90* barb 4AN to 8AN that goes from the CMC to the fluid reservoir thereby deleting the extra fitting?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
so if i read this correctly... need longer allen bolts by at least 5mm and a 90* fitting instead of the 45* one.... and different length line.
Yes for the bolt, the threads will not go through the nut. Fitting... is what will work, I used what I find to reduce down time. A shorter line from the master to the conjoining line, I chose to just replace the whole thing.

Do you think you could just use a 90* barb 4AN to 8AN that goes from the CMC to the fluid reservoir thereby deleting the extra fitting?
I was unable to find a -4 to -8 anything, regardless the -8 barbs are too tall and would hit the lip area due to the the adapter the master comes with.

I am actually looking at changing the setup right now due to some issues and I may swap to a motorcycle reservoir later to for simplicity.

For ease and piece of mind I recommend the Wilwood until I have solved some issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19,790 Posts
ok i'm up at bat
but i'm having 2jr try to do this
[no way i'm crawling under the dash]


using the wilwood master cylinder
so i'm on my own for bolt lengths and hook up



since this project started two months ago, and has yet to move
looks to be awhile

i'll try to post as many pics and info as they will let me

in feb i'm going to be 80
lol maybe by then this will be underway




what did you use for the slave cylinder?



at crucial point now in decision making
give up track/drag combo

tow it and drag only
means massive front end change
losing 200 lb of weight
no sound deadning
losing the 12.2" wilwoods

or leave it
run compromise wheels and tires
sacrifice drag performance and still be street legal


be nice for my birthday to finally hit 11s
if i can go 7.60s at paradise [1/8 mile track], i'll call it mission accomplished
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Final solution:

I had to use some witch craft, espionage and other sorts that shall not be mentioned.... and after some time monitoring for consistency and no issues I have a problem free solution and will update the OP so the Titon can be an option for all.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Posted images at the end of the OP for reference/documentation to show the clearance with the current fittings.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top