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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Written By: 1darkV

I couldn't believe how easy it was to install this intake with basic hand tools...this is a quick overview on how I did it, if anyone attempts it on their car and gets stuck or has questions please feel free to ask me for help:

K&N part #: 69-7001TTK

Step 1: Open the box and make sure everything is there, should look like this:


Step 2: Remove the two clips holding the intake tube down on the front of the engine bay, then lift it out...the arrow is pointing to where it attaches to a tube in the fender. This a good time to disconnect the negative battery cable:


Step 3: Disconnect the positive battery terminal, remove the battery hold down, then remove the battery. Its a bit heavy (lightweight battery in the future maybe??) so be careful when lifting it out. Remove the 3 bolts holding the engine cover on, then the 1 bolt holding the resonator down (circles). Once the resonator is loose, disconnect the hose going into the bottom of the resonator, and the clamp holding the resonator to the intake tube (arrows). Remove the clip in the top right corner holding the plastic cowl cover down, it'll make removing the air-box A LOT easier later on:


Step 4: (1) loosen the bottom clamp on this hose and turn the hose 180 degrees, that will clamp onto the intake tube later on. (2) Loosen and remove the rubber intake tube. unclip the MAF sensor and take note of how it goes in, you'll have to install the MAF into the intake tube, and it can go in either way so make sure it goes back in the same way (the little nib on the sensor that holds the clip faces towards the front of the car). Although the instructions say it isn't necessary, remove the plastic battery tray then remove the bolts holding the battery mount down. It'll slide forward barely an inch, but it'll give you enough room to pull out the airbox:


IMPORTANT: The airbox is a pain to remove, so take your time with that. Be especially careful not to damage the brake fluid reservoir as it will rub against it when its pulled out. Once its out, look at how ugly it is and think about how much better that cone filter will look. Get yourself a refill on your refreshment of choice, you deserve it after getting that airbox out.
Install the molding onto the heatshield as per the instructions, you will have to trim it, I had to MacGyver it a bit to make it hold, but it isn't difficult.

I had to LOL at this, the clamp was like this from the factory, not even tightened at all...but the factory worker actually put the paint on it
nice:


Step 5: Stripped out and ready for the install, note the 2 yellow dots...pop those plastic clips out with a screwdriver, they are threaded and will hold the heatshield:


Step 6: Pretty easy from this point on; Install the heatshield, again leave it slightly loose as you'll have to maneuver it to make the factory tube fit under it before you tighten it down. Attach the silicone hose to the throttle body, and, off the car, install the MAF you removed from the stock airbox into the tube, remember how it went it, and DON'T overtighten it. I attached the support bracket to the tube (2) outside the engine bay, leave the bolts slightly loose so you can move it around to line up the tube into the heatshield. Loosely attach the bracket (2) once the tube is in the car. Tighten up the clamps holding the tube to the throttle body (1). You can tighten the bolt under the tube by feeding a small ratchet and long extension through the heatshield area and under the brake master cylinder. Attach the hose from the valve cover onto the intake tube. Attach the transmission vent tube to the heatshield with the provided tie strap. Make sure any wire/hose clips you removed are reinstalled at this point:



Step 7: Make sure the hose (1) is tight and secure. Install the filter (2), make sure the clamp is INSIDE the heatshield, not sitting on the rubber molding. Tighten up the tube support bracket (3). Connect the MAF connector, making sure its safe and secure (4). Reinstall the battery tray bolts and plastic tray cover (5):


Step 8: Reinstall the engine cover. OPTIONAL: The resonator (1) will make the engine look "cleaner", but without the hoses holding it in it rattles a bit, so I took it out. I'd rather have an ugly engine than an ugly rattle
. Reinstall the factory intake tube, tucking it in under the heatshield (2) (again, a bit of MacGyvering here, but it will fit). I found it easier to maneuver the end of it (2) into place after test driving it, as the heat makes the metal shield a bit more pliable to "shape" over the intake tube. Once thats all in, go over everything again checking the clips you removed and tighten up all bolts and clamps. Don't forget the heatshield bolts, you might have to remove the filter after the support bracket is tightened to have enough room for that. Reinstall the battery, and reconnect the terminals:


Step 9: Start it up, check for MIL lights (shouldn't be any), and take it for a drive
. Enjoy the sound and the dirty looks from your neighbours
. Once back form the test run, check and make sure everything is secure and safe under the hood. Enjoy the satisfaction of doing the install yourself and look forward to the increased performance and efficiency the Typhoon provides.

This is my first how-to, so if I missed anything or you don't understand what Ive done, sorry, and please feel free to ask for help.
 
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