[CrickiKaze]

So what can I do to fix that? And will that jdm motor work in my car just like plug and play.

Unless you want to swap the rotating assembly, nothing really.

 

[AvilaspecV]

The engine doesn’t have the hole there, just the transmission..

Here’s my JDM motor w/ 2JR clutch and LW clutch

View attachment 175714

6-Speed Spec-V transmission:

View attachment 175711

View of hole with starter removed from the engine bay:

View attachment 175710




I can’t tell if what intake manifold that is. Not sure why the intake manifold is black. Most of the intake manifolds are unpainted aluminum, but it doesn’t look like any of the plastic manifolds to me so I tend to believe someone painted that manifold. It also has the bracket spacer between the throttle body and manifold that bolts to the engine head, and I don’t think those were used with the aluminum manifolds. The engine cover makes it harder to see the front of the intake manifold. Maybe someone who knows better can chime in.

Where did you get your motor from?

 

[CrickiKaze]

go to car-part.com, you might find a running motor near you.

 

[konkey00]

Where did you get your motor from?

I don’t like to recommend the guy I got my motor from since he initially sent me a QR25DD when the listing said QR25DE.. I had to pay shipping to get the right motor sent to me.

If I were to do it over again, I’d probably order a motor from one of the sellers on eBay. That way if there’s any fishy business then you could get them involved.

 

[AvilaspecV]

Unless you want to swap the rotating assembly, nothing really.

Will the car even run if I don't rotate the assembly? and yeah that's what I had heard about the manifold so I just wanted to know if it was better to have the plastic or aluminum manifold.

 

[AvilaspecV]

go to car-part.com, you might find a running motor near you.

Ok thanks man.

 

[AvilaspecV]

I don’t like to recommend the guy I got my motor from since he initially sent me a QR25DD when the listing said QR25DE.. I had to pay shipping to get the right motor sent to me.

If I were to do it over again, I’d probably order a motor from one of the sellers on eBay. That way if there’s any fishy business then you could get them involved.

That makes sense I'm going to talk to the sellers at foreign enginesdot com and see if they can send me actual pictures of the motor I'm getting. There is stamping on the block that says QR25DE correct.

 

[CrickiKaze]

Will the car even run if I don't rotate the assembly? and yeah that's what I had heard about the manifold so I just wanted to know if it was better to have the plastic or aluminum manifold.

@Tritton can give you a better answer as he already covered how the motor runs, I can't remember if he said it is running off his original ecu.

 

[CrickiKaze]

That makes sense I'm going to talk to the sellers at foreign enginesdot com and see if they can send me actual pictures of the motor I'm getting. There is stamping on the block that says QR25DE correct.

Some of the motors are re-stamped and in the past was actually a 20, like I said before it is better to verify stroke. On top of that there has been re-manned 25s that was re-stamped as well.

Easiest way to verify stroke is rotating the motor with a long stick marking it at TDC and BDC and taking the measurement.

Hot tip, swapping just qr20 pistons in a qr25 raises the compression but I don't remember how much.

 

[Tritton]

It runs perfect. Original ecu from my SpecV. I swapped out all my components except for the thermostat housing as it doesn't have the tb recirc lines. Revs the same, butt dyno is very similar, tq is similar, the ecu controls the gas so it burns the same. I cam tell its down on power from the qr life, but for a daily, it literally doesn't matter.