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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mod List:
Darton Sleeved QR25
SS o-ring'd deck
B16 crank
Wiseco 10.4:1 pistons w/ Heavy Duty, DLC coated wrist pins
Pauter Rods w/ 625+ hardware
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP 2000 Main Studs
BC valve springs/retainers
ATI Super Damper
PNP head
Precision 6266 gen2 turbo (740whp/560wtq at ~31psi)
JWT C1 cams
RPS BC2 carbon/carbon twin disc clutch
AEM Infinity
AEM CD-7 display
BC coilovers 12k front, 18k rear
Keizer Verbrand 13x11 fronts, 15x3.5 rears


Whelp, as some of you may know, my pride and joy took a tumble. Rolled her about a month ago so it's time for bigger and better things. I've had a B13 SE-R for a couple years now sitting in my yard waiting for a drivetrain. I've had plans to do a 600whp QR build and swap it in but have never had the money to buy a donor car for all the parts. Now it seems I have an entire drivetrain in my garage so I'm getting underway! The plan is to install rods/pistons this winter and run stock sleeves and stock cams for now. I'll only be pushing about 450-500whp for the time being cuz I don't wanna prolong the process by having to pay for and wait for sleeving.
I already have the engine and trans out of the b15 as well as the subframe. Within the next week or two I'll start on fitting the subframe. I'm extremely thankful 2JR decided to do this swap and confirm that it's not all that in-depth cuz I've had this plan since before that was even done just didn't quite know how I was gonna go about it.

Here's progress pics so far.

Dyno 2.jpg
Wing 4.jpg
Manifold 8.jpg
Splitter.jpg
iPhone 4 Pix 3 19 11 120.jpg
iPhone 4 Pix 3 19 11 137.jpg
Se-r yard.jpg
started.jpg
Rollover 1.jpg
Engine out.jpg

Things modified for others' reference:

Cut front mounting perches off B15 K-member
Enlarge existing holes at front k-member mounting points
Remove outer studs from B13 chassis at front k member mounting
Bolt B15 k member to front, inner mounting holes on B13 chassis
Center k member and drill holes thru floor for rear k member mounts
Modify B13 upper strut mounting holes to accept B15 strut mounts
Remove B13 passenger engine mount from body (5 spot welds and body glue)
Mock up side mounts on engine/trans and set in car, mark and drill holes on frame rails (only using 2 on the pass side), then weld in shoulder bolts upside down to create studs
Drill holes in side of driver frame rail and weld in shoulder nuts
Mark area in pass frame rail that needs notching to fit power strg
 

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Sucks that you flipped your red speed demon, but congrats on your new build.

Sounds like fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nope she's toast unfortunately :( I'll get pics up sometime but my computers been sucking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pics added. If an admin can rotate the last picture I'll give you an e-blowjob. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol there's a couple of the b13 there. It's nothing special yet. I'll be migrating it to the garage this weekend so it's not a lawn ornament
 

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@L8YBUG ok cool I see it now. It's red too lol. Hey so you are transplanting megasquirt too right? What are you going to run for your dash? I was thinking of just running an aftermarket tach and having a few other gauges while leaving the dash alone but it occurred to me if I can get the dash working I can get the tags for it and be legal. Anyway what are you thinking of doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@L8YBUG ok cool I see it now. It's red too lol. Hey so you are transplanting megasquirt too right? What are you going to run for your dash? I was thinking of just running an aftermarket tach and having a few other gauges while leaving the dash alone but it occurred to me if I can get the dash working I can get the tags for it and be legal. Anyway what are you thinking of doing?

@nukedog I'm planning on running the b13 dash with the b15 cluster. Not sure how or if it'll fit but I'm sure i can find a way to make it work. Still running the megasquirt just gonna have darsondriss do a couple mods to it to add some more features for drag racing. So in the end it'll be just how it is right now, MS3 running the engine in parallel with the factory ecu running the cluster, starter, fans, fuel pump, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@ash it was dumb really. Raining out. Beyond bald rear tires. Looked down for a split second and looked up to a car slowing to turn in front of me. I overreacted on the brake a bit. Rears locked up and went sideways in an instant. Proceeded to hit a pretty aggressive driveway approach as soon as I went in the ditch.

Btw thanks for fixing that pic
 

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Here is what I'm thinking. Just hear me out. We all know msIII is pretty much limitless when it comes to aux functions and stuff, so why not ditch the stock ecu altogether, go for the drive by cable, and just wire shit up the way you want? It will never have to pass an obdII inspection anyway. These are my thoughts for my future build at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@nukedog the stock computer isn't used for anything besides the cluster. Fan. And fuel pump. Simply for ease of install. MS3 is already in direct control of anything I do with the engine. It's already cable driven
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just snagged this new addition for myself ;)

photo (1).JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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The Wheel Ninja
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do the tsuru front end while you're at it!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got the QR torn down on Friday night. After 1 year at 250whp on a supercharger, 1 year at 300whp turbo'd, and 1 year at 380-420whp turbo'd... The bearings look brand new, pistons are surprisingly clean, skirts are barely blemished. However, there are 2 faint, possible small cracks in cylinder 1 and one possible crack in cylinder 2. None of them go all the way to the top of the sleeve and the car didn't burn any coolant at all. I'm confident it doesnt go all the way thru the sleeve but I'll get the engine over for machining and see if it cleans up or not.

Planning on running this engine for only 1 summer with rods and pistons then will likely get a different block sleeved for next year.

QR Teardown.jpg
 
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