looks good cant wait to see what this thing will do.
L8YBUG 2/Turbo QR25 B13/ Mpls, MN
Mod List:
Darton Sleeved QR25
SS o-ring'd deck
B16 crank
Wiseco 10.4:1 pistons w/ Heavy Duty, DLC coated wrist pins
Pauter Rods w/ 625+ hardware
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP 2000 Main Studs
BC valve springs/retainers
ATI Super Damper
PNP head
Precision 6266 gen2 turbo (740whp/560wtq at ~31psi)
JWT C1 cams
RPS BC2 carbon/carbon twin disc clutch
AEM Infinity
AEM CD-7 display
BC coilovers 12k front, 18k rear
Keizer Verbrand 13x11 fronts, 15x3.5 rears
Whelp, as some of you may know, my pride and joy took a tumble. Rolled her about a month ago so it's time for bigger and better things. I've had a B13 SE-R for a couple years now sitting in my yard waiting for a drivetrain. I've had plans to do a 600whp QR build and swap it in but have never had the money to buy a donor car for all the parts. Now it seems I have an entire drivetrain in my garage so I'm getting underway! The plan is to install rods/pistons this winter and run stock sleeves and stock cams for now. I'll only be pushing about 450-500whp for the time being cuz I don't wanna prolong the process by having to pay for and wait for sleeving.
I already have the engine and trans out of the b15 as well as the subframe. Within the next week or two I'll start on fitting the subframe. I'm extremely thankful 2JR decided to do this swap and confirm that it's not all that in-depth cuz I've had this plan since before that was even done just didn't quite know how I was gonna go about it.
Here's progress pics so far.
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Things modified for others' reference:
Cut front mounting perches off B15 K-member
Enlarge existing holes at front k-member mounting points
Remove outer studs from B13 chassis at front k member mounting
Bolt B15 k member to front, inner mounting holes on B13 chassis
Center k member and drill holes thru floor for rear k member mounts
Modify B13 upper strut mounting holes to accept B15 strut mounts
Remove B13 passenger engine mount from body (5 spot welds and body glue)
Mock up side mounts on engine/trans and set in car, mark and drill holes on frame rails (only using 2 on the pass side), then weld in shoulder bolts upside down to create studs
Drill holes in side of driver frame rail and weld in shoulder nuts
Mark area in pass frame rail that needs notching to fit power strg
Darton Sleeved QR25
SS o-ring'd deck
B16 crank
Wiseco 10.4:1 pistons w/ Heavy Duty, DLC coated wrist pins
Pauter Rods w/ 625+ hardware
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP 2000 Main Studs
BC valve springs/retainers
ATI Super Damper
PNP head
Precision 6266 gen2 turbo (740whp/560wtq at ~31psi)
JWT C1 cams
RPS BC2 carbon/carbon twin disc clutch
AEM Infinity
AEM CD-7 display
BC coilovers 12k front, 18k rear
Keizer Verbrand 13x11 fronts, 15x3.5 rears
Whelp, as some of you may know, my pride and joy took a tumble. Rolled her about a month ago so it's time for bigger and better things. I've had a B13 SE-R for a couple years now sitting in my yard waiting for a drivetrain. I've had plans to do a 600whp QR build and swap it in but have never had the money to buy a donor car for all the parts. Now it seems I have an entire drivetrain in my garage so I'm getting underway! The plan is to install rods/pistons this winter and run stock sleeves and stock cams for now. I'll only be pushing about 450-500whp for the time being cuz I don't wanna prolong the process by having to pay for and wait for sleeving.
I already have the engine and trans out of the b15 as well as the subframe. Within the next week or two I'll start on fitting the subframe. I'm extremely thankful 2JR decided to do this swap and confirm that it's not all that in-depth cuz I've had this plan since before that was even done just didn't quite know how I was gonna go about it.
Here's progress pics so far.
Things modified for others' reference:
Cut front mounting perches off B15 K-member
Enlarge existing holes at front k-member mounting points
Remove outer studs from B13 chassis at front k member mounting
Bolt B15 k member to front, inner mounting holes on B13 chassis
Center k member and drill holes thru floor for rear k member mounts
Modify B13 upper strut mounting holes to accept B15 strut mounts
Remove B13 passenger engine mount from body (5 spot welds and body glue)
Mock up side mounts on engine/trans and set in car, mark and drill holes on frame rails (only using 2 on the pass side), then weld in shoulder bolts upside down to create studs
Drill holes in side of driver frame rail and weld in shoulder nuts
Mark area in pass frame rail that needs notching to fit power strg
881 - 900 of 926 Posts
I'd been streamlining VisionOneRacing.com and getting the shift selector springs and detent kits stocked up. Working on some other products as well, namely a race bearing solution for the connecting rods.
Was able to get the first carbon bumper pulled from the mold and just gotta finish up the fender molds.
And most recently nearly finished up this customer's build who wanted a forward facing turbo kit with a PTE6262, backdoor intercooler, built engine with custom 90.5mm pistons, L19 head studs and V1R rod bearings, rebuilt trans with Synchrotech carbon synchros... the works!
Deeper into the 9's we go! Pulled quite a bit of power out of her this weekend to focus on the short track.
The result: Got my first 1.5xx 60ft (3 of them to be exact), followed by a couple 4.4xx 330's
The car STILL trapped 150mph with 7psi less boost
And she set a new record of 9.86 with plenty of steam left in her.
Later in the weekend I managed an even better 1.58 60ft but had to abort the pass. Learned A LOT this weekend and look forward to bringing those numbers down even more. It's not far off from being a consistent 9sec car!
![173531]()
The result: Got my first 1.5xx 60ft (3 of them to be exact), followed by a couple 4.4xx 330's
The car STILL trapped 150mph with 7psi less boost
And she set a new record of 9.86 with plenty of steam left in her.
Later in the weekend I managed an even better 1.58 60ft but had to abort the pass. Learned A LOT this weekend and look forward to bringing those numbers down even more. It's not far off from being a consistent 9sec car!
Tough part is, you cant look at local forums, sales. Best way is to just feelers out and you'll find 1-2 people willing to part ways.Lucky you..by me for a clean chassis is like $4,000….if I could only go back in time
There's a B12 1990 sentra for sale in southern VA for about $750 right now.
Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
881 - 900 of 926 Posts
