Did some laundry last weekend.
L8YBUG 2/Turbo QR25 B13/ Mpls, MN
Mod List:
Darton Sleeved QR25
SS o-ring'd deck
B16 crank
Wiseco 10.4:1 pistons w/ Heavy Duty, DLC coated wrist pins
Pauter Rods w/ 625+ hardware
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP 2000 Main Studs
BC valve springs/retainers
ATI Super Damper
PNP head
Precision 6266 gen2 turbo (740whp/560wtq at ~31psi)
JWT C1 cams
RPS BC2 carbon/carbon twin disc clutch
AEM Infinity
AEM CD-7 display
BC coilovers 12k front, 18k rear
Keizer Verbrand 13x11 fronts, 15x3.5 rears
Whelp, as some of you may know, my pride and joy took a tumble. Rolled her about a month ago so it's time for bigger and better things. I've had a B13 SE-R for a couple years now sitting in my yard waiting for a drivetrain. I've had plans to do a 600whp QR build and swap it in but have never had the money to buy a donor car for all the parts. Now it seems I have an entire drivetrain in my garage so I'm getting underway! The plan is to install rods/pistons this winter and run stock sleeves and stock cams for now. I'll only be pushing about 450-500whp for the time being cuz I don't wanna prolong the process by having to pay for and wait for sleeving.
I already have the engine and trans out of the b15 as well as the subframe. Within the next week or two I'll start on fitting the subframe. I'm extremely thankful 2JR decided to do this swap and confirm that it's not all that in-depth cuz I've had this plan since before that was even done just didn't quite know how I was gonna go about it.
Here's progress pics so far.
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Things modified for others' reference:
Cut front mounting perches off B15 K-member
Enlarge existing holes at front k-member mounting points
Remove outer studs from B13 chassis at front k member mounting
Bolt B15 k member to front, inner mounting holes on B13 chassis
Center k member and drill holes thru floor for rear k member mounts
Modify B13 upper strut mounting holes to accept B15 strut mounts
Remove B13 passenger engine mount from body (5 spot welds and body glue)
Mock up side mounts on engine/trans and set in car, mark and drill holes on frame rails (only using 2 on the pass side), then weld in shoulder bolts upside down to create studs
Drill holes in side of driver frame rail and weld in shoulder nuts
Mark area in pass frame rail that needs notching to fit power strg
Darton Sleeved QR25
SS o-ring'd deck
B16 crank
Wiseco 10.4:1 pistons w/ Heavy Duty, DLC coated wrist pins
Pauter Rods w/ 625+ hardware
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP 2000 Main Studs
BC valve springs/retainers
ATI Super Damper
PNP head
Precision 6266 gen2 turbo (740whp/560wtq at ~31psi)
JWT C1 cams
RPS BC2 carbon/carbon twin disc clutch
AEM Infinity
AEM CD-7 display
BC coilovers 12k front, 18k rear
Keizer Verbrand 13x11 fronts, 15x3.5 rears
Whelp, as some of you may know, my pride and joy took a tumble. Rolled her about a month ago so it's time for bigger and better things. I've had a B13 SE-R for a couple years now sitting in my yard waiting for a drivetrain. I've had plans to do a 600whp QR build and swap it in but have never had the money to buy a donor car for all the parts. Now it seems I have an entire drivetrain in my garage so I'm getting underway! The plan is to install rods/pistons this winter and run stock sleeves and stock cams for now. I'll only be pushing about 450-500whp for the time being cuz I don't wanna prolong the process by having to pay for and wait for sleeving.
I already have the engine and trans out of the b15 as well as the subframe. Within the next week or two I'll start on fitting the subframe. I'm extremely thankful 2JR decided to do this swap and confirm that it's not all that in-depth cuz I've had this plan since before that was even done just didn't quite know how I was gonna go about it.
Here's progress pics so far.
Things modified for others' reference:
Cut front mounting perches off B15 K-member
Enlarge existing holes at front k-member mounting points
Remove outer studs from B13 chassis at front k member mounting
Bolt B15 k member to front, inner mounting holes on B13 chassis
Center k member and drill holes thru floor for rear k member mounts
Modify B13 upper strut mounting holes to accept B15 strut mounts
Remove B13 passenger engine mount from body (5 spot welds and body glue)
Mock up side mounts on engine/trans and set in car, mark and drill holes on frame rails (only using 2 on the pass side), then weld in shoulder bolts upside down to create studs
Drill holes in side of driver frame rail and weld in shoulder nuts
Mark area in pass frame rail that needs notching to fit power strg
901 - 920 of 926 Posts
Sure are getting her dialed. Unfortunately messed up a valve before we could turn it up and she was dropping boost quick.
Went 9.95 off the trailer at 24psi and in the semi-finals had to settle for a 10.0 on only 19-20psi.... Probably only about 550whp or so
That about does it for the 2021 season, but we'll get her fixed up and come out with that 35+psi tune next year and see what she can really do.
Might have some other surprises coming out soon too....
![Receipt Handwriting Font Material property Rectangle]()
Went 9.95 off the trailer at 24psi and in the semi-finals had to settle for a 10.0 on only 19-20psi.... Probably only about 550whp or so
That about does it for the 2021 season, but we'll get her fixed up and come out with that 35+psi tune next year and see what she can really do.
Might have some other surprises coming out soon too....
Such as this...?????
Gonna print this bish out and see how she fits.
Bonus points if you can name the component...
901 - 920 of 926 Posts
