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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Written by: Dark-V

Okay, so a lot of people are looking at the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wide band and SSI-4 Signal interface to display, and data log their Air to Fuel ratios.
I bought the SSI-4, and the LC-1+DB gauge kit so I can have a spiffy little gauge in my car smiley-tongue



LC-1 + DB gauge Red kit ($289)



SSI-4, 4 channel signal interface ($129)

Those two, plus an Air/Fuel Converter (I use a SAFC II) will give you everything you need to datalog and tune your car.

First off, it's easier to set up the LC-1 and SSI-4 after the SAFC is set up.

LC-1 + DB GAUGE SET UP AND INSTALLATION


LC-1 WIRING
The LC-1 was pretty simple to set up, the instructions helped a lot. There are 6 wires that mine came with. The LC-1 unit itself needs to be in the engine bay so I ran the wires through the ECU grommet in the firewall, where I ran the SAFC harness through.

1. Red 12V supply (any IGN fuse in the fusebox by the steering. I used the "ABS" fuse because I don't have ABS at all)
2. Blue Heater Ground (I used the bolts and metal frame under the steering where)
3 White System Ground (You need to keep this ground separate from the blye ground, if you don't it will cause noise in the system)
4. Yellow Analog out 1 (Leave open, I didn't use it)
5. Brown Analog out 2 (This wire will go into your DB gauge's BLUE wire)
6. Black Calibration wire (Wire this up with the pushbutton switch to a ground, you can put in the LED, but I did not)

LC-1 CALIBRATION
This is pretty simple, now, you better not have hooked in the wideband or anything. Because with the wideband sensor DISCONNECTED, turn the power on (DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE ON) and leave it on for 10 seconds, after the 10 seconds, turn the power off.

Now, connect the wideband sensor to the LC-1 unit, but do not put the sensor into your exhaust yet, leave it in "free air" for calibration, I left mine hanging in the engine bay. And now turn the power on, leave the power on for 5 minutes and don't touch the O2 sensor, it's hot. After the time is up, turn the power off and wait a little while so the sensor cools down. Install the O2 sensor into your exhaust system. I had an extra bung on my midpipe before the cat freed up. So I used that. The closer to the engine the better.

DB GAUGE SET WIRING
Wiring the gauge up is even simpler than wiring the LC-1 up. It uses the brown wire output of the LC-1 as a signal.

1. Connect the gauge RED wire to an IGN power source (I used my A/T fuse since I don't have an automatic tranny)
3. Connect the gauge BLACK ground wire at the LC-1 (NOT the heater ground, but the other one)
4. Connect the gauge BLUE wire to the LC-1 Brown wire.
5. Connect the PURPLE wire to a headlight power. I couldn't find this in the cabin, but I just put it onto another IGN power line because it's bright enough fully dimmed.

So now you have the LC-1 all wired up, you can start your car up and after the O2 sensor warms up, you should be seeing some A/F ratios. Now, for the SSI-4

You should have noticed there are 2 "headphone jack" looking things, these are for the serial connection to your computer. On the LC-1, use the terminator in the wire labels (IN) and leave the (OUT) wire open and available to hook up to the SSI-4

SSI-4 SET UP AND INSTALLATION


The SSI-4 has 4 channels for inputs that it can piggy back onto the LC-1's serial connection to transmit all the data to your computer.

The MAIN thing we are concerned with is RPMs, and that is all I have done so far.
Standard RPM input for the SSI-4 Is channel 1, we will be using this, but first off, we need to set up the SSI-4.

INITIAL SSI-4 SETUP
Okay, you first need to power the SSI-4, I used the same LC-1 ground and power for the SSI-4. So wire that up and make sure you can put it where you want it. I put it under my headunit and HVAC controls so it's out of the way.

Now, you'll need to program the SSI-4 for your car. So hook up the provided Serial cable to the SSI-4's (OUT) plug and set up your computer. Turn the power onto the SSI-4. Open up the LM Programmer software and make sure channel 1 says *4 Stroke 4 Cylinders* and then press *Program* once the button greys out, you're done. Disconnect all the computer from the SSI-4.

SSI-4 RPM SIGNAL WIRING
First off, it took me over 2 days to figure this damned thing out, so be glad you now have this little how to!

If you have an AFC (VAFC, SAFCII or AFC NEO) wiring is simple. All you need to do is take the AFC's green RPM signal wire (pin #103 if you have an 04+) and put that to Channel 1+

For Channel 1-, you tap into the AFC's BROWN ground wire. If you use the black wire, it WILL NOT work. Believe me.. I tried.

Tapping into an inject will not work... tapping into your CPS will not work. Don't try, I have already.

SSI-4 FINAL TOUCHES
Now, remember the LC-1's little (OUT) wire. Yeah, take the wire with 2 male ends that the LC-1 came with and plug the LC-1's (OUT) wire to the SSI-4's (IN) plug. Then take the wire with both male and female connections on it and plug the male end to the SSI-4's (OUT) plug and the other end set aside for computer connection (I have mine poking out near the passenger's seat so it's kind of hidden)


COMPUTER SET UP AND HINTS


Okay, now you have all that CRAP installed and ready to go... but wait... your computer doesn't have a serial connection... OH NOES! WHAT DO YOU DO!?!!?

Go out and buy a Serial to USB converter. I bought this one from IO Gear:


IOGEAR SERIAL TO USB CONVERTER ($30)

You could also buy the one on Innovates website when you place your order... who knows.

CONNECTION TO YOUR PC or LAPTOP
alright, I learned this the hard way.

First, plug in the converter to the laptop. Do the setup, or whatever, just so it's installed.

Next, turn on your car, THEN connect the serial cable from the LC-1/SSI-4 into the USB Serial converter. If you have them all connected when you plug it into the USB port, it will NOT work. Keep this in mind if you're ever on the road and want to plug in.

Next, start up logworks, and you're ready to datalog!

LOGWORKS BASICS

Okay, when you start up logworks, it asks what COM port you're using. Typically, if you don't have any other serial devices hooked you can just choose the defaulted one.

After it connects, you'll see this screen:



Which is the main screen that will be displaying your info. Air/Fuel and RPM are the only two I have set up currently.

Now, you can customize the size of the gauges, how they look even the colors. So you can delete the ones you don't use etc etc...

On the the good stuff: Datalogging. So datalogging is easy, you hit Fil-->New Realtime Log. This will bring up another window and automatically start logging. You can pause, stop, manipulate and save these logs. It's pretty cool. You can also select any point in the graph, and it will display all of the data it has for it.

Here is a picture of one of my runs on the 1/4 mile:
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original is 800x603.



Pretty cool right?

More to come when I get some more info of adding stuff like vehicle speed.
 

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Just got new turbo in the mail, and once my car gets delivered from the shop i will begin the turbo install and this install, Thank you for the awesome write up on this!
 

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Well i got everything installed but am unable to connect to get data off the SSI, it keeps telling me that i can not do real time when using 9v on my LM-1, I have a LC-1....im really confused.
 

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If I'm just installing the LC-1 without gauge or SS!...all I'll be hooking up is the red blue and white?

I'm ordering the gauge soon, but I'm installing my Neo tomorrow and I figure while I'm in there, I'll install the LC-1 too.
 

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If I'm just installing the LC-1 without gauge or SS!...all I'll be hooking up is the red blue and white?

I'm ordering the gauge soon, but I'm installing my Neo tomorrow and I figure while I'm in there, I'll install the LC-1 too.
You could also do the black calibration wire as well, but if you don't have a gauge or plan on datalogging right away, you could hold off on that as well.

Otherwise those are the only wires needed to power the LC-1.
 

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Ok thanks.

So you don't connect the LC-1 with the Neo anywhere?
 

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Ok thanks.

So you don't connect the LC-1 with the Neo anywhere?
Nope. The ssi-4 will however (rpm source).

BTW, I used the same 12v ign source and ground for the LC-1 and gauge, so you might save some time by installing both simultaneously.
 

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Nope. The ssi-4 will however (rpm source).

BTW, I used the same 12v ign source and ground for the LC-1 and gauge, so you might save some time by installing both simultaneously.
Yea, I thought about it...now that I know its that easy to install, I'll just wait. I'm still doing the Neo tomorrow though.

As far as the software the LC-1 comes with, do you need the CD every time to data log or do you just install on your laptop and be done with it?

Reason I ask is cause I got the LC-1 from a friend of mine but he couldn't find the software and serial cable. I have another friend who has the LC-1 kit so I could just borrow his cd and cable.
 

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Yea, I thought about it...now that I know its that easy to install, I'll just wait. I'm still doing the Neo tomorrow though.

As far as the software the LC-1 comes with, do you need the CD every time to data log or do you just install on your laptop and be done with it?

Reason I ask is cause I got the LC-1 from a friend of mine but he couldn't find the software and serial cable. I have another friend who has the LC-1 kit so I could just borrow his cd and cable.
Install and done.
 

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2. Blue Heater Ground (I used the bolts and metal frame under the steering where)
3 White System Ground (You need to keep this ground separate from the blye ground, if you don't it will cause noise in the system)

I have a question on this. Acording the the install manual

5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source.
Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and
connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug,
and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in
unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping.


So which one should I go by?
 

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Just so I know I'm reading this right "If you have an AFC (VAFC, SAFCII or AFC NEO) wiring is simple. All you need to do is take the AFC's green RPM signal wire (pin #103 if you have an 04+) and put that to Channel 1+

For Channel 1-, you tap into the AFC's BROWN ground wire. If you use the black wire, it WILL NOT work. Believe me.. I tried."

I can just splice into the green wire and brown wires that are going to my safc2? Similar to the way I spliced into the ecu wires when installing the safc2?
 
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