[rtraveler]

I took my car to the dealership today for an oil change (2012 Sentra 108kmiles) and they said both lower control arms are showing a lot of play so they need to be replaced.

I already changed both front strut assembly this past summer.

For those of you that have done this before, what other suspension parts should I replace while I replace the LCA?
Control arm bushing?
Stabilizer bar link?
Stabilizer bar bushing?

Also, any special tools needed like ball joint separator?

Thanks for your help.

 

[CrickiKaze]

You can get a complete control arm(s) with bushings and joints. You can replace other items as you see fit on its condition but the links wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[rtraveler]

You can get a complete control arm(s) with bushings and joints. You can replace other items as you see fit on its condition but the links wouldn't be a bad idea.

Thank you for the tip. I would prefer to buy the LCA with bushings and joints. I'm checking Rock Auto now.

Any special tools needed? I've changed the spark plugs, pads, rotors, intake manifold tube, transmission fluid, coolant and brake fluid.

 

[sampson384]

2j racing has control arms with bushing installed.300$

 

[rtraveler]

2j racing has control arms with bushing installed.300$

$300? Rock Auto has them from $30-$50 each LCA. This car is just a commuter car.

 

[sampson384]

opps sry not sure if 2j offers bushing for ur sentra, i have a 04....go with moog,cheaper isnt always better

 

[rtraveler]

opps sry not sure if 2j offers bushing for ur sentra, i have a 04....go with moog,cheaper isnt always better

Thank you. that's another question I had. What brand to use.

Moog, Mevotech, Beck/Arnley, AC Delco.

 

[Tritton]

the bushings 2j offrs are for race car.

for daily, rock auto is good.

 

[Matthew Parris]

Thank you. that's another question I had. What brand to use.

Moog, Mevotech, Beck/Arnley, AC Delco.

Moog. I do a lot of suspension work (welcome to Massachusetts, pothole central of the United States), and I only install moog suspension parts when aftermarket is the only option I or my customers can afford.

 

[Sus Spec]

Its a $1k shop job but its actually an easy ass job to do. The sway bar links bolt to the lca so yes, replace the links and bushings. a few bolts and bam. You only have to pay for an alignment after.

 

[rtraveler]

Its a $1k shop job but its actually an easy ass job to do. The sway bar links bolt to the lca so yes, replace the links and bushings. a few bolts and bam. You only have to pay for an alignment after.

After watching a bunch of youtube videos. It's looks like the hardest part of the job is once you remove the 14mm bolt right next to rotor, removing that part of the LCA. I saw a couple of videos where they use a hammer to bang it out. In another video, they use a pickle fork to separate it.

 

[Matthew Parris]

air hammer with pickle fork attachment makes easy work of the ball joint. A chisel and hammer to open the knuckle up a big can help too. MAP gas the ball joint can help a bit as well but you don't want the knuckle to get too hot or you can damage the bearing. I personally find the links the hardest bit, I tell people they should replace those when they do the arms anyway. reduces overall labor cost and makes sure it doesnt all have to come apart again.

 

[Sus Spec]

Nah all you need is a heavy hammer atleast 4lb. You have to hit the knuckle kinda tho. The vibration breaks it loose. Then just falls out. If its rusty you will have to hammer the lca to get it out but its almost never hard to do, and almost never have to use heat.

 

[Matthew Parris]

Nah all you need is a heavy hammer atleast 4lb. You have to hit the knuckle kinda tho. The vibration breaks it loose. Then just falls out. If its rusty you will have to hammer the lca to get it out but its almost never hard to do, and almost never have to use heat.

I assume your not from new england? lol

 

[Tritton]

Use penetrating lube before hand as well.

 

[rtraveler]

Use penetrating lube before hand as well.

I already changed the shock assembly this summer and I plan to change the lower control arms and stabilizer bar links. Any other suspension parts I should change while I’m at it? The car has 109k miles.

 

[Matthew Parris]

I already changed the shock assembly this summer and I plan to change the lower control arms and stabilizer bar links. Any other suspension parts I should change while I’m at it? The car has 109k miles.

Aside form the sway bar bushings there isn't anything left to change once you have done the links, control arms, and shocks assembly. If you want to do some preventative LONG term stuff you could replace the wheel bearing, but really unless that goes bad you don't need to touch it.

 

[rtraveler]

Aside form the sway bar bushings there isn't anything left to change once you have done the links, control arms, and shocks assembly. If you want to do some preventative LONG term stuff you could replace the wheel bearing, but really unless that goes bad you don't need to touch it.

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to change the sway bar bushings as well. seems like an easy job.

 

[rtraveler]

another question, does anyone know the torque specs for the following:
1) Sway bar link bolts
2) Sway bar bushing bolts
3) Lower control arm bolts

 

[Matthew Parris]

another question, does anyone know the torque specs for the following:
1) Sway bar link bolts
2) Sway bar bushing bolts
3) Lower control arm bolts

tight enough that you feel safe on them XD

if you really need specifics then you can get them from the FSM: Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub